etrailer Self-Adjusting Electric Trailer Brake Review

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Review of the etrailer Self-Adjusting Electric Trailer Brake


Speaker 1: Today we're going to be taking a look at the self-adjusting electric trailer brake with dust shield for the right hand side, for a 10,000 pound axles. Part number AKEBRK-10R. They're also available for the left hand side using part number AKEBRK-10L. So here's what our brakes are going to look like. The really nice things about this set is the fact that it's going to be a complete unit. We're not going to have to worry about replacing springs or individual pieces.

It's just going to be a simple, full ton design. Our brakes are a self-adjusting design, which means that once we have them set initially, we're not going to have to crawl underneath our trailer and mess with adjusting the brakes because they're going to do it for us, which is always a nice thing cause it's one less thing that we have to worry about.The way we're going to make our initial adjustment is going to be at the plug back here. It's going to keep all that dirt and debris out from the inside of our brakes. We're going to have a fine tooth gear to get our brakes set how we like them and set the initial tension. Our pads are going to be bonded, not riveted.

So we're not going to have to worry about those rivets gouging into our drums. They're going to have a nice tapered edge that's machine cut rather than snapped off. We don't have to worry about any kind of chipping or breaking on the edges here which is going to give us more braking torque and give us a long lasting brake pad.Our brake assemblies are going to be a 12 and 1/4 inch diameter and they're going to be a three and 3/8 inches wide. They do have a seven bold mounting flange so make sure to check the trailer and make sure that it will match up. They are designed to work with 10,000 pound axles.

Just keep in mind that the mounting hardware is sold separately but you can pick it up on our website at etrailer.com. Now that we've seen what our brakes look like and going over some of the features, let's show you how to get them installed. In order to get our new parts on we're going to have to take our old parts off. We're going to start by taking off our oil cap. Now, we have already drained our oil.

If you haven't, it'd be a good time to go ahead and pull the cap and get as much oil out as you can so you don't make a big mess.In order to get the nut off we're going to have to bend these tabs out of the way so that we can spin it off. We're going to take a flat head screw driver and a hammer and tap them out of the way. You can take a large pair of channel locks and loosen that nut up. Start pulling everything out. Remove the outer nut and then the retaining washer. Then the inner nut. We can pull the flat washer that was behind it off. Then finally, you can start working our drum back. Once we have enough room, we can pull the bearing out. Now would be a good time to go ahead and inspect the bearing for any kind of wear or any scoring, or major heat marks. Before we get too far into it. We'll go ahead and clean it off and make sure that our bearing is in good shape.Now that the outer bearing and all the nuts are removed, we go ahead and grab our drum. We're going to start working it off the spindle. Sort of be careful because it is rather heavy. Make sure you have a firm grip on it, then we can remove it and set it aside for now. With the drum off, now would be a good time to go ahead and inspect the spindle and all the other components on the inside, cleaning it off. Making sure there's no major wear on the spindle or anywhere else. On the back side of our brake we're going to have our electrical wires. We're going to go ahead and cut them so we can remove the break and not have to worry about it hanging up. You just want to make sure you give yourself enough slack so we can reattach the new ones.On the outer side of our brake assembly we're going to have several bolts that are holding it in place. We're going to have three on each side. And then there's actually going to be one directly behind the magnet here at the bottom. Now there is a bolt so there is a nut on the back side. To help out, I'm going to take a 5/8 socket and I'm going to break them loose and let them free spin so it's not so tough getting them off. If you can't break the bolts loose on the front side you can take a large ratchet or breaker bar and break the nuts loose on the back side making it a little bit easier for those nuts to come off.Then I'm going to take an 11/16ths wrench and hold the nut on the back side while I use a 5/8 socket to remove the bolt. I will repeat that for all of the remaining hardware. The last bolt at the bottom of our brake assembly is going to be rather hard to get to. Since we're replacing our brake assembly, we can take a flathead screwdriver, coming in to where the magnet is, I'm going to pop that clip out that's holding the magnet in place that way we can pull the magnet off and have a little bit more room to work with. It may be a little difficult to get to, but with the magnet out of the way it will be a little bit easier.Now, with all the hardware removed, we can remove our brake assembly. It may be stuck on there pretty good. Just grab a hammer and give it a few taps on the back side and break it free. Then we can remove it. We're going to go ahead and clean off the axle here. You don't need to make it spotless. You just want to get the big debris off so it's not going to interfere with us putting our new assembly on. We can take our brake assembly and go ahead and slide it over the spindle and the axle. I want to mention that there is a sticker that's going to tell you that it's right hand. Also, right at the top of our brake assembly, it's going to be stamped into this piece of metal right here.However, if both of those are worn, the sticker is missing, or you just can't find it, the easiest way is going to be looking at the brake shoes themselves. With the magnet on the bottom, you'll notice that the shoes are going to be two different sizes. The smaller one is always going to be going towards the front of the trailer. We know that this is going to be the right hand side because we're working on the right side and the smaller shoe is facing towards the front.Since our hardware holding our brake assembly on is pretty worn and rusted .You can see that it's covered in rust and half the threads are rolled over. It's really not going to be safe to reuse those so we're going to be replacing it with a new hardware kit. You can just line up the holes on a backing plate and on the axle. We're going to put our bolts in place and then we can get the rest of the hardware in. One thing to keep in mind is you want to watch your wires. Make sure they're out of the way and they don't get pinched in between the backing plate and the brake assembly.Now, just like what came off, we're going to be putting on a lock washer and then a hex nut to hold the bolts in place. We're just going to get all these on there hand tight so we don't have to worry about the assembly shifting or falling down. We can get ready to connect the wires coming off of our brake assembly to the wires that are ran up front. We're going to go ahead and strip back the ends of our wires. They give you plenty of wire here on the brake assembly. We're going to make sure that we have enough, it's not going to get tangled up, but that we also have enough slack so the suspension can still move.We're going to have two yellow wires coming off the end. It doesn't matter which one we connect to but we're going to to take a butt connector. These aren't included in the kit but you can pick some up on our website. We're going to crimp our butt connector in place onto each one of our wires. We're going to take each one of our yellow wires . I'm actually going to strip back a little bit more since they're thinner wires. Now, since I stripped off more than normal what I'm going to to do is, I'm going to twist my wiring together. I'm actually going to fold it in half. It is a rather small gauged wire. That butt connector will grab onto it a little bit better. I'll do that for each one of my wires. Then we can make our connections to our butt connector.These are heat shrink butt connectors. I'm going to take a heat gun and shrink them down. I just want to mention if you are using open flame like a torch or a lighter, you want to be extra careful not to burn or char the wires or the connectors themselves. Now, since this connection is on the outside, I'm going to take some electrical tape and wrap up my connectors to help protect them a little bit better. Now I'm going to take a couple zip ties and tie the excess cable around the axle. Again, just making sure that I leave myself enough room for the suspension to flex. You want to make sure that the wires aren't going to rub or chafe against anything. They're going to be nice and out of the way.With our wire connections made we can come back and tighten up our seven bolts holding our assembly onto the axle. Again, I'm going to be using a 5/8 socket to hold the head of the bolts and an 11/16ths wrench to hold the nut on the back side. I'm just going to go around and snug them all up before I tighten them all the way. Now for the one that's behind the magnet, you're going to want to take a 5/8ths wrench and kind of sneak it in underneath the spindle here to where you get ahold of it. On the back side you're going to want to take either a ratchet wrench or a socket and snug up the nut on the back side.Before we put our drum back in place we want to make sure that our spindle is nice and clean. We don't want any dirt or debris or anything else getting in the way, preventing our drum or our seal from seeding properly. We can clean any kind of debris that got in the hub. Clean that out. Then we can start putting our bearings and all the washers back in place. We're going to remove our cap to fill our oil. We can fill our hub back up. Once it's full we can replace the cap and then we can adjust our brakes.On the back here we are going to have a couple plugs. Take a flathead screw driver and we can pop them out so that we can access the gear to make our initial adjustment for our brakes. We can either get a brake adjustment tool or a flathead screwdriver and we're going to want to turn that gear until the brakes are adjusted the way that we want. Make a couple turns. We can spin our hub to see how much drag and how much movement we have. Once your brakes are adjusted you can go ahead and put our plug back in place. That will finish up your look at the self adjusting electric trailer brake with dust shields, measuring 12 and 1/4 inches for 10,000 pound axles.


Questions and Comments about this Video

Keith

Very informative

Info for these parts were:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Robert C
Installed by:
Robert C
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Kathleen M
Video by:
Kathleen M

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