Bulldog Powered-Drive Trailer Jack Review

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Review of the Bulldog Powered-Drive Trailer Jack


Speaker 1: Today we're going to be taking a look at the Bulldog Powered-Drive A Frame Trailer Jack with Drop Leg. In black, the part number is BD500187. In white, the part number is BD500188.This is going to be a really great easy solution for lowering your coupler down on your ball mount or lifting it up using either power supplied from your vehicle or from your trailer. Eliminate the need to hand crank up and down.Here you'll see we've got a couple switches on the face of the jack. This one is going to be for our LED light, we've got a very nice bright 2 LED light here. It's designed to illuminate our coupler area to make connections easier.

Then our other switch is either for retracting or extending the jack.There are a few things that really stand out about this jack. It's a good, quick jack so it's going to raise and lower our coupler very quickly for us. It's also very quiet. Typically you'll find either a fast jack that's going to give you a good lift and good drop or a quiet jack. It's not all the time you'll see them in the same package.As you can just listen, that's extending it, that's the most load we're going to have.

Really nice and quiet, same thing with retracting. It's a nice quiet jack, but still does a great job to get the job done.The light is also much brighter than what we often see on other jacks. You'll also notice we don't have a huge head on top of the jack, it's got a nice small sleek housing so it should fit in a lot of different applications.The housing's a complete cover that comes down and over all the way around to help any rain run off. It's got sealed switches in the cap here for our manual override. We don't have to worry about moisture sinking down and settling down in our components.The jack's been designed for use with trailers that have a 2-1/4 inch opening in the tongue.

Our outer tube's 2-1/4 inches, so we want to be sure we have the room for that to slide down and through.As you can see, the tube and also our mounting flange has the black powder coat finish. That's going to do a great job of resisting corrosion. The inner tube of the jack and the drop leg also have a zinc coating on them. That's going to help resist any corrosion, just like the pin that we have to hold that in place.That drop leg itself gives this a total of 8 inches of adjustment. That's a lot more adjustment than what we see on some of the other jacks out there.

Typically they're going to be four, five, maybe up to seven. The two inches that we have between each hole gives us a lot of good adjustment.Our foot pack's diameter is going to be 5-1/2 inches. It helps to dissipate the energy of this tube out over a greater area. We're not going to have to worry about it sinking down in softer ground or even asphalt.From the bracket to the top of the jack, it's about 20-1/2 inches. You just want to make sure you've got that kind of room for clearance. With the smaller design here on the top, it should work out in those tighter spaces.It's going to give us a bracket height or a measurement to the top of our coupler here, about 31-3/4 of an inch. If we take that drop away, it'll be about 23-3/4.Based on some of the reviews, when our jack is fully extended, if we continue to hold down that button, it's likely we're going to blow the fuse. A lot of users have commented you can use a permanent marker and just get yourself a mark on there so you'll know when the jack is fully extended. You can do the same thing at the fully retracted position just to give yourself a guide.Now in the event that we lose power, maybe the battery on the trailer goes dead, maybe we have a malfunction on our truck side, we do have the cap. We'll just remove that, that's going to allow us access into the manual crank section. Then it will operate just like any regular jack, up and down. It doesn't take a whole lot of effort.To begin our installation, we want to of course have our old jack removed. We're using jack stands to support the tongue, and you also want to be sure you've got your trailer chocked properly. You don't want it to move.At that point we'll place the outer tube down through the hole. You want to ensure that this is at least 2-1/4 inches so the tube will fit. You see with that really long drop leg we talked about, it's a good idea to have this positioned underneath so as we place the jack down and in, it's going to engage. Move that down. Now we're able to retract that drop leg, and we'll just get it pinned up.In the kit you've got three star washers. These are going to go underneath the jack on top of the trailer there. We'll line it up with our holes. Now with this jack you will have the opportunity to mount it either in the straight traditional configuration or in the side facing configuration if you want to be able to access your buttons from the driver's side. That gives us a little bit of option there.We place out star washers right underneath each of the holes. This provides a good ground between the jack and the trailers, since we don't have a ground wire this makes sure that we have a good connection.In the kit, we also have provided hardware. We've got the bolt and the lock washer, we're reusing the original flat washer that we had. With these oblong holes it's a good idea to have one between that lock washer and those holes, just so it doesn't mess that up on us. If your trailer doesn't have a flat washer on it now in each spot, then you'll want to use a 3/8 diameter.Then we'll use our 9/16 inch socket. We're going to snug down our hardware and then torque it to the specifications which you'll find in your instructions. Now we can get our wire extended out, and we'll want to make our connection to the power source.Now you've got options; if you have an onboard battery in your trailer, that's typically where you'll want to go with it. That way you'll always have power to your jack. If you don't have an onboard battery, then you'll want to run it probably to your junction box. You'll be getting power through the vehicle, so that means your jack will only operate when it's connected to a vehicle.That's the way this trailer's set up. It doesn't have an onboard battery, so that's what we're going to do. Here's the wire that provides the 12 volt power that comes from our junction box, just ran along the frame rail back there. That's where we're going to make our connection.To make our connection, we're going to use a heat shrink butt connector. Since this is on the outside of the trailer, we want to maximize any resistance to the elements, make sure we don't have corrosion and stuff like that to deal with. The part we're going to use is DW05745, just place that on the stripped end of your wire and crimp it down.In the jack side, depending on where you have to run your wire, you might have a little bit of extra. Once we have the length selected that we need, we'll use the supplied zip ties and we can secure it. We just place the wire from our jack in and get it crimped down.Next we're going to add a little bit of heat. You can use a heat gun, you can use a mini torch, or you can use a lighter. Just want to gently heat the plastic on the end and you'll see it start to shrink down. Now we can use a couple of zip ties and secure that off.Now with it plugged into our power source, ready to extend our footplate down, and then extend the jack. Once we've got the weight off our jack stand, we'll remove them and our trailer will be ready for use.That's going to complete our look at the Bulldog Power Drive A-Frame Trailer Jack.


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Info for these parts were:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Sue W
Video by:
Zach D
Installed by:
Randy B

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