Westin Off-Road Driving Lights Installation - 2006 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Westin Off-Road Driving Lights on a 2006 Ford F-150


Today on our 2006 Ford F-150, we'll be installing the Westin Off Road Driving Lights, part number 09-0505. We're going to mount these on the Westin Sportsman Grille Guard that has already been installed on the truck. To begin our install, our grille guard has mounting points for the lights already. We'll go ahead and locate the attachment points and remove the rubber plugs. Now to secure the light to the bar, the stud will go down through the light bar, then we'll install a flat washer, a split lock washer and secure with a nut. Let's go ahead and set out light in place and then we'll install our hardware. There's our flat washer, our split lock washer and then the nut. With our hardware finger tight, we'll make any necessary adjustments to the light and then tighten it down.

Now with the first one installed, we'll move over to the driver's side and repeat the same process. Now with our lights mounted, we're ready to start wiring it up. We'll go ahead and open up the hood, access the back of our light wiring and strip back both ends. We can do this for both lights. Now to improve our connection between the pigtail coming from our light and the wiring harness we'll be installing, we're going to use the Deka Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, part number DW05744-5. We're going to put the butt connector onto our light wiring. Next we're going to go ahead and start connecting the ground circuit.

The wiring harness comes with a bullet-style connector that were going to trim off because we'll be connecting this side of the ground wire which will match up black-to-black wiring, but since we're using the heat shrink butt connectors, we're going to remove the bullet-style connector that's on the harness. We'll go ahead and trim both of them off, add to the black wire here on the passenger side, making the ground circuit here for the passenger side. The other end that we just trimmed off is ultimately going to get run here behind the bumper and over to the passenger side and repeat the same process. The third part of our black ground wire here is the end that'll be taken to the frame or body sheet metal of the vehicle for a ground. Here behind the bumper there's plenty of steel that we could connect to to create our ground. We'll use a self-tapping screw to secure the spade connector end of our ground wire. By using our self tapper we'll go ahead and start putting our fastener in place and slide the spade connector into position. Next we're going to start wiring the power side of our lights and to do that we'll take the red wire from the harness.

You'll notice that it has two ends. These ends are going to run to the red wire coming from our lights. Go straight to the butt connectors that we already previously installed on the end of the pigtail for the light. Again starting here on the passenger side, we'll take the short end of our power wire and connect it to the butt connector. We'll take the long end and follow the black ground wire that we already ran, cut it to length and strip it back. Then we'll install it into the red wire here on the driver's side and crimp it down.

Now with all our connections made here behind the lights, using a heat gun, heat up the butt connectors so the heat shrink will seal up around the wire creating a good sealed connection. Let me go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape to help keep it free from dirt, dust, debris and moisture. I'm going to use some of the Spectro Wire Loom to put round the wires to help clean up the install look and secure the wiring. We're going to use the Spectro Wire Loom, 1/2 inch diameter, part number 459075. To help hold the wire loom in place, I'll take some of the black electrical tape and just tape up the ends and a couple across the middle. Once we get the wire loom in place, we can now go ahead and use zip ties to secure the wiring as necessary. Next we'll go ahead and start routing the wiring harness up into the engine compartment. Next I'll go ahead and install the relay onto the harness. As you can see here, there's a predrilled hole to mount the relay. We'll run it over here to the inner fender well. To secure it, we'll just use a self tapping screw. Next we'll take the black wire from our relay harness and it'll be the ground for our wiring harness. When locating a spot to ground with a self tapping screw, we're looking for an area where the sheet metal doubles up. Here where the two layers of sheet metal come together is a perfect location. We'll go ahead and put a ground screw in place and then slide the terminal in and tighten it down. Next we'll take the long blue wire coming from the relay connection and route it into the cab of the vehicle and ultimately to our switch. For this application, we're going to route across the front here and we'll need to make some areas where we can secure the wire. Using a small drill bit just large enough for our zip ties, we're going to make some attachment points. Now that we're over here on the driver's side, we're going to route up the driver's side inner fender well, ultimately through our firewall and then into the cabin of the vehicle. Because of the route that we've taken to route our wire, it's going to be too short so we'll need to add some length to the wire. We'll go ahead and do that now. Cut it and strip it back. Add a butt connector and then we'll bring in our extra length of wire. Our wire's going to change colors but the objective and function will be the same. Here, just on the passenger side of the brake booster, is a manufacturer's grommet, we can use to route our wire into the cabin of the vehicle. To go through the grommet, we're just going to use our utility knife to cut a slice in the grommet and then push our wire inside. Next we can move inside and pull our wire through. Now with our connection made, we'll go ahead and heat up the heat shrink portion of our butt connector. We're now going to go ahead and move inside and install the switch. We'll use the screw fasteners provided with the switch to attach it here to the bottom of the dash. On the back side of the switch are three spade terminals. The copper one here at the top of the switch is for our ground wire. The middle one will be for the power wire we ran from the relay harness and the bottom one will be for the power wire that we're going to run off the manufacturer's parking light circuit. Now we'll go ahead and install and secure our switch to the dash. First we'll take the ground wire and route it to the firewall so we can secure the ground for the switch. Here at the gas pedal bracket would be a good location. Using a self tapping screw, I'll go ahead and start it, then slide the wire terminal in and secure it. Next we'll take the power wire we ran through the firewall. We then mark, cut our wire to length, strip it back. Using the standard 14 to 16-gauge butt connector, we can re-secure a terminal here to our power wire. Then we can plug it into the back of our switch. Next we'll take our switch power wire we installed earlier on the switch and start routing it to the vehicle's parking and headlight switch. As you can see, the wire's not going to be long enough so we'll go ahead and strip it back. We'll use the extra length of wire we just trimmed off the other power wire and a butt connector to add some additional wire here to make the run through the switch. Even though this butt connector is on the inside and should be away from any of the outside elements, I'm going to go ahead and wrap it up with some black electrical tape to help keep it free from dirt, dust, debris and moisture. Now that I know my wire's long enough, I'm going to go ahead and remove the side panel of the dash to gain easier access to the switch. To pop the panel free, we're just going to use a plastic pry tool or a flat blade screwdriver. With the panel off, we can gain access to the wiring here behind the headlight, parking light switch. Now with our panel off, using our test light, we need to find the manufacturer's wire that'll operate the parking light circuit. This vehicle's already had something added to the system that taps into the parking light circuit because as we probe the connector here and turn on the parking light, we see that it activates the test light. We know that the manufacturer's brown wire is the hot lead for the parking circuit. Now we'll go ahead and run our power wire up to the manufacturer's wiring. Keep in mind while routing your wiring, stay away from any moving components or steering suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust. Once I get it routed up into place, I can go ahead and cut off the excess and then using a quick splice connector, we're going to slide it over the wire that's tapped into the ground wire on the manufacturer's side, take our power wire, slide it into the quick splice connector and crimp it down. Then we'll close the clasp. Now our switch power wire is connector to the parking light circuit. Now with all our connections made, we'll go ahead and re-install the panel and secure our wiring under the dash. After I secure the wiring, I'll go ahead and cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up my install look. Now that we're finished inside, we're going to move back out to the engine compartment where we're going to uncover the positive battery terminal, remove the positive battery stud nut, install the power wire ring terminal and then re-secure the nut. Now with our ring terminal secured, we can go ahead and finish securing our wiring here at the inner fender well and then cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up the install look. Now that our install is complete, we'll go ahead and close the hood and test out our new lights. That does it for the install of the Westin Off Road Driving Lights, part number 09-0505 on our 2006 Ford F-150. .

Info for these parts were:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video by:
Alan C

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