Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Chevrolet Traverse

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse


Today on our 2016 Chevrolet Traverse, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Part number C56181. Here's what this wiring is going to look like once it's installed on the vehicle. As you can see, we've got our 4-pole power here at the hitch and this wiring harness is going to do a great job of just that, giving you that 4-pole power here so that you can power your trailer or cargo carrier. This kit uses T-connectors behind the tail lights in order to get the signal for the power. It does run a 12 volt power wire directly to the positive side of the battery so that the module box can take it's power from there as opposed to using the power coming off of the signals behind the taillights.

Because this module box is drawing it's power from the battery that's going to help to protect your vehicle's electrical system because it's not over drawing from your vehicle, but rather directly from the battery. If you want something that's going to do a great job of providing the power that you need, but also not run the risk of damaging the wiring on your vehicle, this kit's going to be a great one to do just that. Now, let's show you how to install it. First thing we'll need to do is remove our taillight assemblies. We'll have to take the cover off on each of these and you can use a flat head screwdriver. Get underneath and pull it out and turn them down so that you've got access to the screw.

You'll need a seven millimeter socket. Pull both screws out and grab onto the taillight and begin to pulling straight towards the rear of the vehicle and that'll release from the alignment tabs. Here we've got our connector, we'll need to push down the tab. It's on the backside of that. If you have a little bit of trouble you can take your screwdriver, just pry off that small metal clip.

The tab on this has this little red locking mechanism that you'll need to pull out that way it will allow you to depress that tab and release it. I'll go to the other side and do that same thing. Now use a fish wire, which I'm going to use a piece of old airline tubing and feed it down along the inside of the fascia so that it comes out the bottom. I've used some electrical tape to tape my wiring harness that has the yellow, red, and brown in the T-connector and I taped it to the end of that airline tubing so then I'll be able to carefully pull this up to that opening for the taillight. Then I'll take my connector and make the connection with the factory wiring harness on the vehicle. Now's a good opportunity for us to use a self tapping screw that comes with the kit to secure our ring terminal on the white wire to the body as our ground.

You want to be sure wherever you choose to mount yours that there's nothing behind there that may get damaged like wiring. Now we can make the connection with the other side of our T-connector at the back of the taillight and reinstall our taillight. When you put all these connections together you want to be sure to push those red tabs down because the new wiring harness does come with those factory style tabs. Next I routed the green wire with the T-connector across from the box. I used fish wire to run it through the bumper rail, came out the other side of the bumper rail, and then used the same fish wire to go up towards that passenger's side taillight. Now, I'll begin making my connections with the green T-connector. Then I'll reinstall our taillight. Now I'll connect our length of black wire to the black wire that comes off our module box. Strip the end back. We'll use the yellow butt connector that comes with the kit and crimp that down. Then we'll crimp that to the other end of the black wire. Now's a good time for us to mount our module box. Take a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a cloth and wipe down the location that I'm going to use just up on the body panel here. On one side we need to take our double sided sticky tape and put it on through the module box and then we'll peel the other side off and then stick it into the location that we cleaned. Then I'll take some electrical tape and wrap up my butt connector to help prevent moisture getting in there and corroding the connection. Now we can take our black power wire and route it towards the battery. How I routed that black power wire is I brought it through up here so that I can make sure to keep it away from anything moving or anything hot like the exhaust. Run it up over tying it along the inside of the frame rail there, going up towards that rear cross member. Went over that cross member and secured it with a zip tie, kept coming down, and then ran it down along the inside of the heat shield here on the fuel tank and then ran it across over here, over this heat shield, and then just up there is the grommet for the battery vent. This is the battery box inside the vehicle, so I ran it through that grommet up there to the battery. You will want to be sure to go back and zip tie any excess wire that you have so that way it doesn't possibly rub against something and rub through to damage the wire. Here's where that wire comes through up to the battery. Now I'll strip the end of my power wire back so that I'll be able to connect my inline fuse holder. I'll install one end of the other yellow butt connector on my black power wire, then I'll install one end of my inline fuse holder. On the other end of my inline fuse holder I'll put this yellow ring terminal on. Then I'll take my ring terminal and bring it over towards my positive battery terminal, place it over that stud there. Then you'll need to find a nut and then tighten it down. Finally I'll take my 10 amp fuse and install it into the fuse holder. Then I'll put the dust cap on. now I'll reinstall our battery cover. This screw is going to use a T20 torque bit. We'll replace our cover over the font of the seat tracks. It'll just clip down into place there. Then we'll fold our floor mats back over. I routed the 4-pole wiring from the edge of the bumper rail and zip tied the extra up out of the way and came across where it comes down then over to the receiver and secured it to the safety chain connection point using the dust cap. Now with everything installed and hooked up let's go ahead and test it to make sure everything's working. We're going to use part number I26 in order to do that. First let's check our taillights. Left turn signal, right turn signal, and brake lights. With everything working properly we're ready to plug our trailer in and hit the road. That's going to complete our look at and installation of the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Part number C56181 on our 21016 Chevrolet Traverse.


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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Alan C

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