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Today on our 2013 Toyota Highlander, we'll be installing the Curt T connector vehicle wiring harness with 4 pull flat trailer connector, part number C56217. Now, we're here on the driver's side, up underneath where the pedals are. You'll notice this white plug right here. Right here is what we'll be tying in with. We tie in this white plug in here, comes off of the converter box and go ahead and pull our ground wire out of that bundle. We're going to go ahead and make our connection here.
Line up the pins and we'll make sure that it snaps into place. Next, we're going to go ahead and take a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. We're going to clean the back of the converter box as well as clean the area that we're going to attach our converter box up underneath the dash. We'll go ahead and take our 2 sided tape. We'll peel the one side of it off and attach it to the back side of the box. Next, we're going to go ahead and attach our box up here to the flat section of the silver colored cover, so we'll go ahead and peel the backing off our 2 sided tape. Now, there is a metal cover.
It's up underneath the dash here. That's where we'll actually be attaching our converter box. Now, we've gone ahead and connected our white wire with the ring terminal to this stud right here, took the bolt off and then we went ahead and put it back on, added our ground wire in place. Go ahead and tighten everything back down. Next, we're going to go ahead and install the 10 amp fuse into the fuse holder. Go ahead then and put the cover back on the fuse holder.
Now, we're back here at the rear of the vehicle where we're going to need to take a few pieces out in order to gain access to our plug. We'll go ahead and take the carpet piece out here and we'll set it aside for now. This cover right here will need to come up. We can set this aside for now. Need to pull this side panel up here. Since it has this cover piece in here, we're going to need to pull the other side panel up as well in order to set this cover piece out of the way.
Go ahead and lift this side out as well for now. Then, we can go ahead and set this whole piece here up and out of the way. Now, we're going to need to remove this panel or this section right here. There's a push fastener right here. We'll either use a trim panel removal tool or a large flat-head screwdriver. Pop the fitting out. Then, there's 2 nuts down in here that we'll need to remove as well. Go ahead and unscrew them. Now, in order to pull this piece out, we're going to need to lift this section up right here. Again, we're going to use our trim panel removal tool or our large flat-head screwdriver. Gently work it underneath the edge here so it pops up. Set it aside. That done, it'll give us access to pull this section here out. Now, the connection point that we'll be tying in with, is this little white plug right here. We'll go ahead and take our 4 flat wiring; has this connector on the end. Go ahead and line up the locking tabs. Push it into place, making sure that we hear the locking tab click. Now, before we put our trunk area back together, we're going to go ahead and put the fuse in up at the fuse box underneath the hood and then test our 4 flat to make sure everything's working okay. Now, we're up underneath the hood over here on the driver's side of the vehicle. We're going to need to open up the cover on this fuse box. You simply push in on the tab, lift upward and then we'll be going to the towing circuit, is where we're going to need to add our fuse. In the box here, it's this port right here is where we'll be sticking our 10 amp fuse. We're going to be putting a 10 amp fuse in place there. This location here is the towing one. Now, that we have our fuse in place, we can go ahead and put the cover back on the fuse box. Then, we'll go ahead and take our test light. We'll connect the ground to the test light to the white wire. Now, with the running lights on we'll touch the brown wire. As you can see here, those are working. Now, left blinker; we'll touch the yellow wire. That's working. Now, for the right blinker, we'll touch the green wire. For the brakes, we'll touch either the yellow or the green. As you can see here, all of our functions are working fine. Now that we know that the 4 flat works, we can go ahead and put the cover on them. Simply slide it in place like that and you'll close it up. Now we're ready to reinstall our interior here at the rear of the vehicle. Go ahead and take our 4 flat and route it along this side here. After putting our piece back in, just not a whole lot of room and it also pinches the wire. We're going to go ahead and take a rotary tool and trim out a small little hole here, just big enough that it allow our 4 flat to fit through, though you will probably need to retake the cover back off in order to make a smaller hole and pull your 4 flat into position. Go ahead and feed our 4 flat through the hole we just made. Go ahead and get everything lined up in there. Line the 2 studs back up. Then, put the 2 plastic nuts back on the screws. There will push fastener right here. Go ahead and put our cover back on our 4 flat. Snap this panel piece back in right here. Now, with our interior back together, when you're ready to use the 4 flat, you'll simply lift up the rear section, raise up the side panel here, pull out your 4 flat wiring. We'll then bring it to the center of the vehicle, making sure we stay away from the latch area, because this could easily damage the wire. You'll also notice how the weather strip here pushes in. When the rear hatch closes, it'll push in, allowing the wire to stay in place, yet not damage it. I'll go ahead and close our rear hatch. When you're ready to tow, your wiring will be right here by the center of your hitch. Now, when you're not towing, you can simply store it in the side cubby here. Raise the cover back up and store your wire down in there. That'll do it for our installation of the Curt T connector vehicle wiring harness, with a 4 pull flat trailer connector, part number C56217 on our 2013 Toyota Highlander. .
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