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Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Toyota RAV4

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How to Install a the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2020 Toyota RAV4

Rob: Hey, everybody. Rob here at Today, we're going to be taking a look at the Tekonsha T-One vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector on our 2020 Toyota RAV4. Now, our Tekonsha vehicle wiring harness is going to give us a four pole flat trailer connector, so we can hook up to our trailer and get all the lights we need to get down the road safely. Now, a four pole flat connector is one of the most common trailer connectors out there. It's going to provide you your taillights, your turn signals, and your brake lights.Now, the wiring is designed to stay on the inside of the car until we're ready to use it.

Which is actually a really nice thing because we don't have to worry about any damage to the connectors, or any corrosion building up, because it's not going to be exposed to the elements. But when we do want to use it, we just simply open up our hatch and we'll have it drop out the back. Whenever we want to store it, we can take the excess and we can store it right by our spare tire. It's real easy to get to. Not any big deal.Now, I know a lot of customers are worried about the wire getting damaged from closing on the hatch.

There's no need to worry about that. You can see there's plenty of cushion here on the weatherstripping. And so long as we stay away from the latch mechanism itself, it'll be perfectly fine. We have never ran into an issue if you use it properly and you stay away from that latch.Now, as far as the installation goes, it's pretty straightforward. We're just going to have a T connector that's going to plug in-line between our vehicle's harness and the tail lights.

Then it's going to take those signals and send it to the converter box that's on our wiring kit, and it's going to convert those signals through a working signal for our trailer. But it's also going to help protect our vehicle. Say there's something wrong with your trailer. There's a short in the wiring. The converter box is going to protect the vehicle from any kind of backfeeding, so even if you do have a short, it won't do any damage to your RAV4.

Our wiring kit is also going to be fuse protected, so we're going to have to run a separate power wire to power that converter box. That's really nice, because it's going to take the strain and stress off the RAV4's tail light signal so we're not overloading those.Let's go ahead and walk through the installation together, so you can have the confidence to do it at home. To start our installation, we want to open up the rear hatch on our RAV4, and we want to make sure that the rear seats are folded down. We can pull out all the floor coverings and everything that's going to be on the floor. So, pull the mat out as well as these plastic coverings, and the bottom section here. Now, with all that stuff out of the way, we want to move to the very back right at the threshold. We can pull this out, and we can grab right at the bottom of the threshold, and we just want to pull up. There's a few clips that are lining the back section here. Once we pull up, they'll start releasing.You just want to start on one of the corners, and pull up, and kind of work your way across. If you need to . it may be a little bit tight, so you can take a trim panel tool and just kind of pull the weather stripping away that way we can get access underneath. Kind of look to see where those push pins are. Make it a little bit easier to get them to disengage. The panels are clipped together. If they're kind of sticking, if you push down on the outer panel while you're lifting up, it'll make it a little bit easier to release it. We'll set it aside where it won't get damaged.Now, we need to get access behind each side panel here. If we come to the very bottom in the corner, we're going to have that tie down hook right here. We need to pull that out so we can grab a 10 millimeter socket. We'll pull that bolt out, and then we can pull that entire hook out. There's going to be one on each side, so we'll pull the one on the passenger side out as well.If move up on that black panel right here, we're going to have a push pin that's holding the top section in place. Now if you look at it, there's a couple of notches on each side. What we want to do is take a trim panel tool or a flathead screwdriver, kind of come right into the center of that notch. We want to pop out the center section first. Should be able to grab it with your fingers, kind of wiggle it a little bit, and then the rest of the clip will come out with it.With the bolts loose on each side, we're going to start separating the panel here so we can get behind it to access the wiring. Now typically, we're going to want to start at the end somewhere. Just kind of have a little bit of pressure pulling away. Just like before, we can see the push pins a little bit easier when you do that. You just want to pull that panel, releasing those clips. Kind of just start working your way up until we can get the panel to come loose and we can get behind it.Now, you don't want to pull too hard, because this is a rather large panel. To give ourselves a little bit more room and slack so we can pull this away more, if we move further towards the front of the RAV4, we'll have another tie-down that's bolted down right here. We're going to take a trim panel tool. We'll open up that tie-down point. And then if you come at the bottom and kind of flip that cover up, it'll expose the bolt that's holding it in. I don't have to worry as much about it pulling because it's not bolted down there.Now that we've got our panel loosened up, inaudible 00:05:24 actually is using a strap to hold it back that way I can use both my hands to get in here, and disconnect, and connect everything I need to. If you have a strap and you're going to be doing this, just really pay attention to how hard you're pulling on this panel, because it is plastic and we don't want it to crack. But we're going to be moving to the inside of this pocket here, and we're going to be looking for a connector that's going to match the connector on our new harness. So, we're going to be looking for a connector that looks like this. If we look inside, we should find that connector right here . the big bundle of other connectors.There's a little tab. It's kind of hard to get to because it's right underneath the other connector above it, but you want to squeeze in on the tab, and then pull out to separate the two connectors. T connectors have one female and one male connector, and it's just going to plug in between that harness and the tail light itself. So, match up our connectors, plug the female into the male, make sure it locks in place. We'll take the other side of the connector, plug it into the other end of the harness.Again, just want to make sure you hear that audible click. Kind of give it a quick tug, because it's not exactly easy to access. Now, we want to take our green wire. I'm going to route the wire along the bottom of the threshold here, and I'm going to go over to the passenger side and connect it the exact same way. Now we should have two wires left. We'll have a white wire with a ring terminal. That's going to be our ground wire. And we'll have a black wire that has the stripped end on it. This is going to be our power source, and this actually needs to get ran up to the battery.Now obviously this little length of wire is not going to reach there, but they do give you a butt connector along with a good amount of wire to run it to the battery. I'm going to take my butt connector, go ahead and crimp it onto the end of the wire . We'll find the end of the length of wire they provide, stripped back a little bit, and we'll crimp it into the other end of our butt connector. For now, we're going to bring our attention to our ground wire. Now this can be put to an existing ground that's already in the vehicle, or you can use the self-tapping screw that comes with the kit. You just want to make sure you find a solid piece of sheet metal to attach it to, and you just want to make sure that usually the best spot to go is where the metal kind of doubles up. It has something really thick to grab on to.If we look into that pocket pretty close to the floorboard here, we'll have a stud going right into that metal. I'm going to grab a 10 millimeter socket, pull that stud out, and slide the ring terminal around the bolt. Finally, that brings us to our converter box. This just needs to be mounted somewhere where it's not going to be shaking around, it's not going to be getting vibrated a whole lot, and that it's not going to be in the way of putting everything back. I like to use the double sided tape, but there is an eyelet at the top of the converter box. You can use a zip tie as well, but I'm going to take my double sided tape, take the backing off one end, stick a directly to the box. I'll take the backing off the other side. Eventually, I'll find a spot back here that's out of the way right against the side of the body here. I know my panel can go back in place, I have plenty of slack for my wires, and it's not going to interfere with anything.Now, we need to get our power wire to the battery. The easiest way, I think, is if we actually come to the driver's side back corner, there's a little rubber grommet right on the floorboard here. You can probably just pull it out with your fingers. I'm going to put a small slit in it that way my wire can fit through, and we can put it back in place and seal everything up with some silicone. I'm going to go ahead and feed the end of the wire down, get most of the slack underneath. And once we get it pretty close to where we have all the slack underneath, I'll go ahead and slide the grommet back in and get everything in place.You want to make sure you seal up the grommet because we don't want any kind of leaks, whether it be water or gas fumes coming in to the inside of the cabin here. And if you need some silicone, you can pick it up here at The wire came out at the very back of the bumper on the driver's side. Like I mentioned before, this is going to have to run to the battery. A few things you really want to pay attention to when you're routing this is you want to stay away from extreme heat sources like the exhaust, or any moving parts like the steering or suspension. Everybody's going to take a little bit of a different path, but those are the two main things you want to stay away from . anything that potentially could damage that wire. Feel free to use it as many zip ties as you feel comfortable to make sure that the wire is secure.But I'm going to go ahead and run this towards the front of the engine bay, and then I'll show you the path that I took. I started running my wire towards the front, started using some zip ties right here at the back of this factory line. There's not a whole lot on the bottom of the floorboard here, so I attached it here, went over the subframe and the rear axle. And then I actually had my wire come down right behind this support for the fuel tank. I actually just tucked it underneath this plastic cover running it all the way along. This cover actually goes all the way up, but we stopped it once we got to the opening here.You can see we've got most of our bundle of wire here left. But as we look up to get into the engine bay, there's a lot of moving stuff. There's a lot of heat sources right here. What I did was I ran an airline tube. I actually started down here, because we got a lot of brake and fuel lines right there, so we can tuck that behind those going up the firewall so it will stay as close as possible and behind those lines. There's less chance of anything touching it, because we do have our steering shaft, the drive shaft, the exhaust. There's a lot of stuff right here.To get it up into the engine bay, I'm going to take the end of my wire, and I'm going to attach it to the end of my airline tube. You could use a coat hanger . pretty much wherever you have. But since it does have those curves and we want to get behind all those lines there, it probably would be easier to use a coat hanger or an airline tube. Something just has some structure to it. I'm going to start pulling all the slack up, and it's not a bad idea to double check underneath. Make sure there isn't a wad that didn't get stuck on anything, and it's not going to get caught while we're driving.Another thing I like to do is once I get it up, and I verify that it's not touching anything, it's not too close to anything, I'll take a zip tie and I'm going to actually zip tie it directly to these lines back here at the back of the firewall. Again, it'll keep it closer to the firewall, keep it away from all these moving parts further down.Now, we need to hook up our power wire to the positive post in our battery. Now, there's two little tabs here. We just squeeze them, and the whole cover will lift up, and we just kind of rotate it out of the way. But before we actually attach this, we want to make sure that our wiring is going to be protected, so we want to make sure we wire in that fuse holder. I always suggest you double check that the fuse isn't in there. We'll cut the loop of wire in half, then we're going to strip back both ends. We want to grab the ring terminal out of our kit. On one end, we'll crimp it in place. I'm going to grab another one of those yellow butt connectors from our kit, and we'll crimp it in place.I always like to give myself a little bit of slack, that way I can move the fuse holder out of the way. So, pretty much about here will give us plenty of wire to reach the battery and make our connections. We'll just cut our power wire, we'll strip it back, and crimp it down in the butt connector. I'm going to grab a 12 millimeter socket so we can loosen up that nut on top of the battery. Remove the nut and slide our ring terminal in place. And if you want, I can make sure that cover's going to fit. What we can do is we'll just put our ring terminal down, tighten it down. Then just make sure that that wire kind of follows the path, and are able to get that covered back in.We can take our fuse, put it in the fuse holder . I always like to test my wiring before I put any of the panels back. In case there's a connection issue or anything's going on, we can address it without having to retake everything apart. I'm going to go ahead and test this, and if everything's working we'll start putting all those panels and components back in place.I got my four pole tester plugged in. And if you need one of these, you can pick it up here at I'll go ahead and run through my lights and verify that they're all working. I see that my tail light function's working, the left turn signal, the right turn signal, and the brakes. We'll go ahead and put all these panels back in place, and then we're ready to hit the road. Whenever you are putting your panels back in place, you just want to make sure you still have access to that four pole wire, and you can bring it into the center section by the spare tire. For now, we're just going to drop ours right out the back bumper, and we'll get the floor coverings back in place.Now that we know our wiring's working and all the panels are back in place, that'll finish up your installation and your look at Tekonsha T-One vehicle wiring harness on our 2020 Toyota RAV4.

David M.


The install videos from etrailer are one of the reasons I purchase all my products from them. The gentleman (Rob) in the video does a very good job explaining and demonstrating the installation of the wiring kit. It came with everything except the silicone which is to be expected. The only critic I have is the butt connectors. They are poorly designed and do not work well. I used electrical tape to help secure the wires with the connectors, did not trust the butt connectors.

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