Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2018 Toyota RAV4

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How to Install the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2018 Toyota RAV4


Today in our 2018 Toyota RAV4, we're going to be taking a look at, and showing you how to install, the CURT T-connector vehicle wiring harness with a four pole flat trailer connector. That's going to be part number C56350. And to help us with our installation, we're going to be using this short, no drill mounting bracket, part number 18140, and the four pole flat mounting bracket, part number 18144.So here's what our wiring looks like once we have it installed. Now I do want to mention that we chose to mount ours on the outside close to our hitch, that way we can have it whenever we tow. So we added a couple brackets that are sold separately. But our wiring's going to give us a four pole flat trailer connector.

That way we can have all the required lights when we drive down the road, like our turn signals, stop lights, and our taillights.The nice thing about our wiring is that it is custom designed for our RAV4, so we're not going to have to cut or splice any kind of wires on our factory wiring. We're simply just going to have to remove a few interior panels so we can get behind the taillight, and we're going to have a key connector that's going to plug in line with the factory wiring.Our wiring is going to be fuse protected, so we're not going to have to worry about overloading the circuits. And our stop and turn signals are going to have a maximum amperage of three amps, and our taillights are going to have a maximum amperage of six amps.Now that we've seen the end result of our wiring, and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin an installation, we're going to open up the rear hatch on our RAV4 and we're going to need to remove all the floor coverings. So for the one in the center, we can just lift it up, push it out of the way, and then we're going to pull our spare tire out and make some room.We'll pull the foam tray out that was underneath our spare. Set it aside as well.

Now on the driver's side, we're going to have this plastic panel here that was just on the outside of our spare that has our tools in it. We're going to have two push pins towards the front that we're going to have to pull out. So you can take a trim panel tool or a flat head screwdriver, come underneath that push pin, and it'll pop right out.Once those are out, we can lift up on the bottom of the panel. There's going to be a couple clips holding it in. And we can remove it and set it aside.

Then we can remove our threshold, and this is just going to be held in by some clips. So we can start at the back corner, and we're just going to lift up, and we're going to work our way across, releasing those clips.Now on the driver's side, we're going to have a couple of fasteners that are holding this lower panel in place. At the bottom, we'll have a tie down hook that's going to have a bolt holding it in. So we can grab a 10 millimeter socket, and pull that bolt out.And then towards the top, where the two panels meet, we're going to have another fastener holding it in, and you can either use a Philips head bit, or you can use an eight millimeter socket to pull it out.With those fasteners loose, we're going to start pulling our lower panel away. So you can start at the bottom here, there'll be a few clips, and you may want to use a trim panel tool to kind of help pull that panel away.

We're just going to work our way up, releasing some of those clips.We just want to separate the panel from the side of the body here.Now if you need a little bit more room, or it's not coming as loose as you want, we can move forward, and we'll have a few more fasteners that we can remove. Right here next to the light, we're going to have this plastic cover. We take a trim panel tool or a small flat head screwdriver, we can pop the panel open.And behind that panel we'll have another fastener, so we can grab a 10 millimeter socket and an extension, and we'll pull it out.And for the tie down hook that's closer to the front, we'll just flip it open, and we're going to have a cover we can pop open, and we'll expose the bolt that's holding it in place. We'll grab a 14 millimeter socket and pull that out as well.With those fasteners loose, we can pull the panel away a little bit more. Now we have a little bit more room, and we're going to want to pull our upper panel away as well. There's going to be some clips holding it in place as well, so let's take a trim panel tool and kind of start working it behind there to release those clips.Now we have a little bit more room to work with, and if we look inside our upper panel here, we're going to find our taillight connector right here. Now it's going to be clipped against the body, so I'm going to go ahead and take my trim panel tool and pop it out so we have a little bit better access to it.Once you have the connector loosened from the body, there's going to be a small tab on top there, and we're going to push in on that tab and separate the two connectors. Now we're going to repeat this process of loosening our panels and getting our wires to the outside on the passenger side as well.On the driver's side, we're going to grab our T-connector that has the red, yellow, and brown wires on it, and you're going to notice that our connectors are going to match up directly with our taillight connectors. We'll plug them in, making sure they lock into place.And then we can tuck all of our wires back behind that panel.Now before we put all of our wires and our converter box behind the panel here, we're going to want to add the length of wire to our black wires so we can run it up to the battery. So we'll take a butt connector from our kit, slide it over the end of the stripped wire, and we'll crimp it in place.Then we can grab the length of black wire that comes in our kit, we'll strip back the end of it, we can put it into our butt connector and crimp it down.Now for our converter box, we've got a few different options of how we can mount this. There's an eyelet at the top that we can take a zip tie and secure it to some existing wiring behind this panel, or we can take the double sided foam tape, apply it to the box, and stick it directly to the body. So we'll remove the backing off one side, make sure you press firmly to get it to stick to the box, and then we'll remove the backing. We're going to pull our panel back and find a nice flat spot that's not going to interfere with our panel going back in place. You just want to make sure you give yourself enough room so that we can attach our ground wire somewhere out here.I'm just going to reach in and stick it directly to the inside. That way the panel won't interfere right here, and it'll still give us plenty of room to get our ground down here on the threshold on the metal part. So let's take all of our wires, we'll tuck them behind the panel towards the center, then we can loosely put the panel back into place. Make sure we have enough room and everything clears.Now our ground wire, we had to come out right at the bottom of this corner panel here. I'm going to take a self-tapping screw, and just screw it directly into the sheet metal, and the ring terminal will go around it.You want to make sure it's tight enough that the ring terminal doesn't move, but you don't want to strip it out. Then the T-connector with our green wire, we're going to run across the threshold here, and we're going to connect it on the passenger side the same way.So we can start putting all the fasteners back in on the side panels, but we're going to want to wait to put the floor panels back in. We should have two wires left: our four pole wire and the black wire that we attach is going to need ran to the battery. Now both of these are going to need to go to the outside of the vehicle since we're going to be mounting our four pole by our hitch. So the easiest way to get to the outside is if we actually come to this carpeted section and just lift it up a little bit. We'll find a rubber plug in the bottom of the trunk pan. We can pull that plug out, and that'll give us access to go directly down underneath our vehicle.So we can take our wire, and we're going to pass it through the opening. It may take a little bit to just kind of press down on that cover, and we can start feeding everything down underneath.Just take all the slack out. And lay the wire nice and flat against the floor. And we'll do the same thing for our 12-volt wire.Now for our plug, we're going to need to make a little room so our wires can fit through. So I'm going to take a pair of snips. I'm just going to cut from the edge to about the center, that way we have a little relief in there. We can slide our wire back in and put the plug back in place.Just take our wires, slide them into the middle of the plug. Press the plug back in place. And then to make sure it seals up, I'm going to come back with some black silicone and just go over the area we cut and right where the wires are. That way we don't have to worry about any kind of leaks or fumes getting inside the cab of our car.If you need some silicone, you can pick some up here at etrailer.com.We can start putting all the panels back into our hatch.So our wires came out right underneath our trunk pan, just forward of our hitch. So now we're going to take our black wire, and we're going to run it all the way to the front up towards the battery. Whenever you're routing this, you want to make sure to stay away from any kind of moving parts like the steering or suspension components, and away from any heat sources, like the exhaust, that might damage the wire.So I'm going to go ahead and run this, and then I'll show you how I routed it.So I ran my power wire going towards the front, went over the rear axle, over all the supports, and came down right by the fuel tank, and actually went underneath this cover, kept following it along, and I zip tied it to some existing plumbing here, went underneath this cover, following it all the way till I have it coming down right here. Now I went ahead and dropped down a pull wire so I can get my wire up to the engine bay.So now I'm just going to take my wire, and I'm going to attach it to my pull wires so I can get it up top. Take a little bit of electrical tape, secure it down, and we can move it up top, and start pulling all the slack out.So we're pulling all the wire up. It's not a bad idea to check underneath, make sure they didn't get bound up and there's not a lot of wire. And we can pull the wire out of the pull wire. You're going to want to make sure you anchor it down up here so that it doesn't slide back down, again, get caught while we're driving down the road.Just put a zip tie here on some existing wiring. It'll keep it secure, and we can start routing it towards our battery. And we're going to need to go to the positive post in our battery. So we can cut our black wire, trim some of the excess off, and we'll strip back the end of it. We'll take our last remaining butt connector and we'll crimp it in place.We'll grab our fuse holder, and the ends are going to be pre-stripped already, so we can just pull a little bit of insulation off. We'll put one end into our butt connector and crimp it down. And the other end, we're going to take the ring terminal from our kit, and crimp it down.We'll open up the cover on our positive battery post, and we'll expose a nut that's going to be on top. So we'll grab a 12 millimeter socket and remove that nut.We'll place our ring terminal over the top, and then reinstall the nut. I always like to have the wire go the same way the factory wire does. That way it doesn't interfere with the cover when we put it back on.Now all we have left to do is put our fuse in place, and we can tidy up the wires at the back.So we're going to mount up our bracket. That's going to come with a hose clamp and the bracket, and that L-angled piece is going to wrap around the hitch, and the band will hold it in place. Now we can either put it on the bottom, or if we want a little bit more clearance and we have room, we can slide our bracket on the top. We have to push on that plastic a little bit to make room for it and make sure that flat piece is all the way against the back of the hitch.We'll take our clamp, and we're going to feed it over the bracket so that it comes back around, and we'll slide it in place. And we can grab a socket and start tightening it up, making sure our bracket's square and sitting where we want it to.Now you can use a 5/16ths socket, or an eight millimeter socket to tighten that bolt up.That's just going to tighten that clamp up and make sure the bracket doesn't move around on us.And so we won't have this tail sticking out, we can trim it. I'm just going to take a pair of tin snips, come behind the hitch, that way we don't see it, and I'll cut that band. It is metal so it is going to take a little bit of effort, but if you're using a pair of tin snips, it should cut through it.We can take our four pole bracket, and the hardware, and we're going to drop down the screws from the top and the closer set of holes together. They'll line up with our bracket. And then we can come back and we can put these locking nuts in place.You just want to get these on there hand tight so they're started so the bracket won't fall off. I'll come back with a 3/8th socket. I'm just going to hold this screw head with my finger, and tighten up the nut. And they are locking nuts, so it doesn't take a whole lot of pressure to hold them. It'll be a lot easier to tighten those up than trying to get a screwdriver on top. And we're simply just going to take our four pole connector, take the dust cover off, and we'll slide it in place. And those little ridges are going to catch on the bracket itself, so we just want to work it out till it's securely in place, and that it's not going to get pushed back through. Then we can just tie up any excess wire behind our hitch or anywhere you can that it's going to be nice and out of the way.Now that all the wires are tightened up, we can go ahead and test out our circuits. I went ahead and plugged in my four pole tester, and if you need one of these, you can pick one up here at etrailer.com using part number I26.I can see that my taillight functions are working. So is the left and right turn signals, and our brakes.All we have left to do now is hook up to our trailer and hit the road.That'll finish up your look at the CURT T-connector vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector. Part number C56350 on our 2018 Toyota RAV4.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Installed by:
Cole B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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