Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt T-Connector vehicle wiring harness with a four pole flat trailer connector, part number C56040. Our wiring kit is designed to stay on the inside of the vehicle at all times, and it is going to be easily stored right by our spare tire tools. Now whenever we are ready to use it, we can simply pull it out, drop our wire down, and as long as we stay away from the latch mechanism, our wire will be completely safe for us to close the hatch.Our wires have provided us with a four pole flat trailer connector that's going to give us all the required lights to get down the road safely and securely, including our running lights, turn signals, and our brake lights. As you can see, we'll have plenty of wire to drop it out and connect up to our trailer. Our wiring kit is going to include a dust cover to keep all that dirt, debris, and anything else out of the connector preventing corrosion. And when we store it, we can actually use it to wrap around the wire and keep everything in a nice little bundle.Our wiring kit is going to be a plug and play installation.

We're not going to have to cut or splice into any of our factory wiring because there is going to be a connector on the inside and we can just simply plug into. Our wiring is going to be fuse protected so there we're any problems on the trailer side, we're not going to have to worry about any kind of backfeeding or any damage to our vehicle's electrical system. It's also going to have a converter box that's going to take those raw signals from our tail lights on our Subaru and convert them into a working signal for our trailer.Now that we've seen the end result of our wiring and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we're going to want to open up the rear hatch and we're going to need to remove all the floor coverings back here. So we'll go and pull up the at and set it aside.

We can lift up and remove the carpeted floor section, and underneath that we really only need to remove the driver's side panel now. We'll just lift up on the other carpeted section. Since we need to get under here, we're going to remove the passenger side so we can get everything else out of here.We'll lift up the center section where our spare tools are. Set it aside. In order to get this foam panel out on the left hand side, we're going to have a couple push pins, one towards the back, and then if we look farther up in this kind of hole right here, we're going to have another pushpin.

You're gonna want to grab a flathead screwdriver or a trim panel tool so we can get underneath the pushpins and pop them out. With those removed we'll go ahead and pull that foam panel out and we'll set it aside.Now farther up towards our back seat, we're going to have this tie down hook and if we pull the plastic cover down, we'll expose the nut that's holding it in place. I'm going to take a 10 millimeter socket to pull that out. If we look inside the hole of that cargo hook that we removed, we'll see a couple of wires and if you look up or see some blue tape. Our factory connector is connected to that wire with that tape.

I just going to reach in with a knife. I'm going to cut the tape making it easier to get access to that plug. Once we cut it, we can reach underneath here and pull the connector out. This is a tight fit so it kind of helps if you put your hand inside the cargo hook hole and reach up from the bottom as well.This is going to be the connector we're looking for. Again this is going to be a really tight fit but once we cut the tape here we should be able to come back just behind that back seat, reach up and grab this connector. So we're going to take the plug on our wiring harness and we're going to plug it into the factory plug and make sure that it locks in place.Now before we talk any of our wires back or anything else, we need to find a suitable spot for our ground. As you see, we're not going to have a whole lot of wire to work with, but we should be able to reach a nice flat metal spot over in this area or possibly push that panel back and come into this area so we can take that self tapping screw that comes in our kit. So I'm gonna take a quarter inch nut driver and a self tapping screw and I'm just going to come in to this flat spot on the sheet metal here and I'm going to start my hole so it'll be easier once I get the ring terminal in place. With the hole started, go ahead and grab our white wire with a ring terminal on it. Pass our self tapping screw through and now we're going to secure it directly to that metal. You just want it to be snug enough to where that ring terminal isn't going to move.With our connector and our ground wire connected, I'll go ahead and take the provided 10 amp fuse, put it into the fuse holder and I'm going to start tucking all of our wires and the connector back underneath this panel. It will just make it easier to put that fuse in now rather than after we tuck all these wires back and we don't have to fight trying to pull it back out. Let me just tuck it back there.Now for our converter box, we are going to have to find a spot to mount it. In our kit they do provide us with some double sided tape, so I'm going to take a little bit of rubbing alcohol on a rag. I'm going to wipe down the box so I know it's nice and clean. Then I'll take one side, put it right on the box, make sure it sticks nice and good. Then we're going to find a flat surface to mount it to. So if we reach back into this little cubby here, there's actually a little ledge. It's going to be hard to see, but if you reach back there, there's a little ledge where we can put it on the side so we can still get all our panels in place. Again, I'm just gonna take that rag, wipe down that panel. We can remove the other side of the foam tape.With the tape removed, we can take the converter box and we're going to feed it down into that pocket. We're just going to push it right up against that flat material, making sure again that it's out of the way so we can still get our panels back in place. And for our four pole wire, I'm just going to route it underneath the plastic panel here in the threshold. And for now I'm just gonna leave it by the spare tire so I can get all my panels back in place.We're going to start by putting that foam panel back in on the driver's side. Just want to make sure you get everything lined up so that we can get those push pins back in place. Center section with all our spare tools, I'm actually going to take my four pole wire. I'm gonna go right in between this seam here where my wire can store right here with the rest of my tools. We can put the rest of the floor coverings and everything else back in place. Put our two side panels back in, put the carpeting section in the middle back in, and finally put the Mat back in.For our wiring, I'm going to go ahead and pull it out. We can take the included dust cover that comes with the kit. I'm just going to slide it over the connector. Before I close it up, I'm going to go ahead and test my wires to make sure that they're all working properly. To test the circuits, I'm going to be using a four pole tester. If you need one, you can pick one up here at etrailer.com using part number I26.So I'll go and run my lights and verify that they're all working properly. If I turn my headlights on, we can see the tail light circuit is working properly as well as a left turn. The right turn and our brakes. All we have left to do is hook up to the trailer and hit the road. Then I'll finish up your look at the Curt T-Connector vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector, part number C56040 on our 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon.


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