Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2017 Nissan Rogue

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How to Install the Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2017 Nissan Rogue


Speaker 1: Today in our 2017 Nissan Rogue, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt T-connector vehicle wiring harness with four pole flat trailer connector. And that's going to be part number C56033.So here's what our wiring is going to look like. It is going to provide us with a four pole flat trailer connector, and it's going to provide us with all of our required lights to get down the road safely, such as our taillights, brake lights, and our turn signals.Our wiring is going to stay on the inside of the car until we're ready to use it. Then when we do want to use it, we can simply drop out the length of four pole wire right by our hitch. And since we have this nice weather stripping here, so long as we stay away from the actual latch of our hatch, we'll be okay.Let me just drop it out, close the hatch, and then we have plenty of length of wire to hook up to our trailer.And whenever we're finished towing and we're not using our wiring, it'll conveniently stow underneath the compartment nice and out of the way.Now, our wiring is a custom wiring kit, so it is made specifically for your Rogue. Now, we're only going to have a few connections to make behind the taillights, but that's going to be on the inside panel, so we're going to have to remove some of the interior panels in the back of our hatch.There's not going to be any kind of cutting or splicing into our factory wires.

There's just going to be a simple plug in installation, and we're just going to have to run a hot lead up to the battery.So now that we've seen what our wiring looks like and the end result and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we've going to have to come to our rear hatch. And we're going to open it up so we can gain access to the wiring and our taillights.Now, we're going to want to remove all the floor coverings out of the back. We're going to set them aside for right now.Now, right on the inside of our threshold, right towards the edge on either side, we're going to have a pushpin fastener that's holding it in place. Now, I'm going to grab a flathead screwdriver, and there's going to be a small notch that you can get underneath the center section first. And we're going to pop that out, and that's going to relieve the tension on the clip so then we can pop the rest of it out.

And we'll remove the other one on the other side, as well.Now, we can come to the corner edge of our threshold, and you're going to want to lift up and unclip the clips going along the edge here. And once you get one side unhooked, you're going to want to go to the other side and work your way towards the center.And once you have that unhooked, there's going to be a plastic piece right. And you just grab a screwdriver again and just pop that center section out so we can take it all the way out. Then, we're going to lift the threshold up and we'll set this aside.Now, also on either side, we're going to have our tow hooks. We want to flip the tow hook up so we can gain access to that cover right there.Behind there, that's going to be the fastener that's holding it in place.

Just take a flathead screwdriver and pop it up, and we're going to need to remove the bolt right there. Grab a 10 millimeter socket and you can pull that bolt out. And the whole tow hook assembly will come out with it. And we'll do that for the other side, as well.Now, if we move towards the front of the vehicle, we'll notice that there's going to be a small circle plastic cover there. There's going to be another bolt holding that panel in place.

So again, just want to take a flathead screwdriver, try to get on the outside of that cover, get underneath the edge of it so that we can pop it out. Going to take our 10 millimeter socket and remove that one, as well. Now, there is going to be one on the other side, too.Now, we can start to begin to remove the panel or at least flex it out a little bit. Now, I'm going to be using a plastic trim panel tool so I don't damage the plastic on the inside. Just going to want to pull the weather stripping away slightly so that you can get your tool in there. You're going to want to get underneath the panel and slowly start working your way and prying away, and it'll start releasing some of those clips. One you have a few of them released, just want to start working your way down and across so that we can gain access back here. And once you have it pretty loose to where you can get access to back here, we're going to go and do that on the other side, too.Now, if you can get your hand back there with this room, you can go ahead and continue, or if you need a little bit more room and so you can see a little bit better, I'm going to come a little bit farther inside the compartment here, and we're going to have another round circle. That's going to be that cover again. There's going to be another bolt, as well as another cargo hook that we can take off.Now, just so you can see a little bit better, I did remove this panel. You don't need to remove this for the installation, but there's just a few tabs that you can pull on and it'll come right out.So if we come to the very back of the vehicle, we'll find this connector right now, and that's going to be for our taillight harness.Now, to disconnect this, you're going to find a small tab that's gonna be on the wiring. Just going to want to push that tab, and you'll be able to pull the connector out.You're going to want to grab the T-connector on your wiring harness that has the yellow, brown, and red wires on it. And this is going to be going to our driver's side. So, we can see that they're going to match up with our connectors in our vehicle.So, I'm going to go behind the panel here, and we're just going to connect the two together that match up. I'm going to make sure they lock into place. Give them a quick tug. Then, we can connect to the other side.So, we can take the rest of our harness now, and I'm going to go underneath the panel on the side here, and I'm going to start working my way towards the passenger side. I just want to make sure that the wires go all the way underneath the panel and they don't get stuck.So, now that the majority of the harness is out from under the panel, we're going to grab the wire connectors. I'm just going to loosely route it for right now and then go behind our panel. And we're going to find that same connector that's going to be right in the same spot, right here at the back.So, we can push in on that tab again to release the connector. Then we grab our green T-connector and start making the connections.Now, we're going to have a white wire with a ring terminal coming off of it, and that's going to be for our ground. Now, fortunately for us, if we come back to our driver's side, right by where we made our connections, we're going to have a factory ground right here. Now, if you don't to use this ground, they do provide you with a self tabbing screw that you can just screw into the sheet metal, but I'd rather take that bolt out then having to put another hole in the vehicle.So, we'll take our 10 millimeter socket again, and we're going to remove that bolt.Take our ground wire, pass the bolt through, making sure that we put all of our other factory grounds back in place, as well.Just make sure to line up that alignment tab whenever you put the bolt back in. You don't have to worry about doing any damage to those grounds.So, we're going to need to find a spot to mount our converter box. Now, they provide us with some double sided foam tape, so I'm going to take the cover off and apply it directly to my converter box. Just want to make sure you push firmly and it's going to stick nice and good.Then, we take the backing off of the other side. I'm actually just going to stick this directly to the inside of the sheet metal here. That way, it's out of the way, but it's still going to be nice and secure and we still have room to get to our jack over here.So, we should have a black wire coming off our converter box with a bare end on it. Now, this we're going to have to run out to a power source, which we're going to use our battery. And they do give us a length of wire to run it up there.So I'm going to go ahead and strip back one end. And we take the included butt connector, slide it over the wire, and crimp it in place.And then we'll connect the other end of our butt connector to the bare wire coming out of the converter box.Now, right behind the panel, right towards the back edge on the driver's side, we're going to have this plastic plug here. Now, that's what we're going to use to drop our wire down, and we're going to route our wire from underneath up to the battery. Just grab a flathead screwdriver, and we can pop that plug out. But I do want to mention, you want to keep a hold of it so that we can make a cut and reinstall it once we have the wire in place.So once we have the plug out, just going to pass all that black wire down. And the easiest would be to pass it down until you can reach it underneath, and then just start pulling it through, making sure it doesn't get tangled on anything.For that plug, I'm going to take a pair of cutters, and I'm just going to cut a notch right about to the center so that my wire can pass through. I'm going to put it back in place with the wire right in the middle.Now, since I did have to cut it and it's not sealed anymore, I'm going to come back with a little bit of silicon. I'm going to seal up that hole. That way, I don't have to worry about any kind of moisture or even any fumes coming back into my car. Now, if you need some silicon, you can pick some up on our website using part number LT37467.So here's where the wire came out underneath the care. Now, like I mentioned before, we're going to have to route this wire up to the battery underneath the hood. You just want to make sure you stay away from any heat sources, like the exhaust, or any moving parts, like the suspension or steering components. So I'm going to go ahead and run this up to the front, and then I'll show you how I did it.So, I started routing my wire, zip tying it along the way. I went over the subframe, continuing towards the front. Then I actually cut over right by my fuel tank, started routing it along some existing lines and brackets, and went underneath this cover, routed it all the way to the front of it, and I came down right here, right by the front subframe. Now, we're to need to get this up to the engine bay, so we can move up top and I'll show you how we're going to do that.So, underneath our hood, our battery is going to be right here on our driver's side. So, I'm going to take a piece of air line tube that I had laying around. And you can use whatever you have available, even if it is just a coat hanger. Just want something that's going to keep its shape once you start pushing down. So, I'm going to start routing my air line tube down so I can meet up with my wire and then pull it back up.Some air line tube did come out right by my subframe here. So I'm going to take my wire, put a little bit of it inside the air line tube to help secure it. I'm going to come back with some electrical tape, put a little bit of tape on there so I want lose it when I start pulling it up. Now, we can go back up top and start pulling it through.Once we get our wire up, just want to pull all the slack out and make sure that it's not getting stuck or tangled underneath the car or on its way up. And it never hurts to take a peak underneath and make sure that it didn't get wadded up and there's a bundle, because you don't want to go driving down the road and get it ripped out.I'm just going to put a zip tie on this existing wiring here. That way, I don't have to worry about my wiring falling back down underneath the engine compartment.So we're going to be connecting our wire to the positive post in our battery, but before we do, we're going to be installing our fuse holder. That way, our circuit is going to be fuse protected.So we're going to estimate about how much wire we need, maybe give ourselves a little bit of extra. That way, we can route it and make it look nice. And then we're going to cut back the end.So, we can cut our black wire that we ran. Then, we're going to strip back the end of it. Slide our butt connector over our wire and crimp it down.Then we can take our fuse holder, and this is going to be pre-stripped. So we just pull off the insulation on one end, put it into our butt connector, and crimp it in place.On the other end of our fuse holder, we're going to pull the insulation off, exposing the bare wire. Then we can grab the included ring terminal in our kit, and we're going to crimp that onto the end of it.So we uncover our positive battery post, and we're going to have to remove the nut so we can install the ring terminal in place. I'm going to grab a 12 millimeter socket and remove that nut.Slide the ring terminal over, and then reinstall the nut.So, now we can take the provided 10 amp fuse and put it into our fuse holder. We can go back and clean up all our wires and put our trunk area back together.So, we can start putting our panels back in place. Just want to make sure all the clips line up and they all engage. Make sure the weather stripping is on the outside of the panel.Then, we can start replacing all the hardware.So you just want to make sure, before you put the driver's side panel back in, that your four pole wiring is coming out towards the center by the spare tire and it is underneath that panel and it's not going to interfere with anything.Now, as far as the green wire that's running from the driver side to the passenger side, I'm just going to take a little bit of electrical tape and I'm going to tape it to the inside of the threshold, because once we put that plastic panel back on, it'll cover it back up.Now, you can use electrical tape, packing tape, Scotch tape, whatever you have available. You just want to make sure that you stay away from the clip points, where the threshold is going to back in, or any other point where it may damage the wire or cause an issue to get it back in place. Just want to make sure it's secure and out of the way.Now, we can put our threshold back. Make sure all those clips go into place. Again, you just want to make sure that that weather stripping is on the outside of the panel. So you may just have to pull it out a little bit before it goes into the right spot.Then, we can put our floor covering back in. And with our floor covering, we can either leave our wire underneath where it's by our spare tire, you can actually leave it right here, and then put the covers back in place. That way, our wires will be right here whenever we need them.Now, our wiring is going to come with a dust cover, so we're just going to slip it over the end of our wiring.And before we connect it, we are going to need to test our wiring to make sure that everything is working properly. So I have my four pole tester here. And if you need one of these, you can pick one up at our website using part number I26, So, we can plug it in. I might grab an extra set of hands so they can run my lights, and I can verify that everything is working properly.Can I get the headlights, please Looks good. Left turn signal Good. Right turn signal Good. And finally, the brakes And if you wouldn't mind, brakes and both turn signals.All right. With everything looking good, we're ready to hook up to our trailer and hit the road.And that would finish up your look at the Curt T-connector vehicle wiring harness for four pole flat trailer connector, part number C56033 on our 2017 Nissan Rogue.


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video by:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Installed by:
Cole B
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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