Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Audi Q5

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2016 Audi Q5


Today, in our 2016 Audi Q5, we'll be installing the Tow Ready upgraded heavy duty modulite circuit protected vehicle wiring harness with install kit. Part number 119190KIT. Here's what are kit consists of. We have our modulite module itself. This will isolate our trailer wiring for motor vehicle wiring by just getting over signal from the vehicle wire it will draw direct power from the battery using these ring terminals that we can attach to the battery terminal, using this fuse holder here. We have this bundle of water that we'll make our connection from the battery to the fuse to our module. Our module gets the signal from the vehicle but takes power directly from battery, so we don't put any strain on the vehicle's electrical system.

This will also keep our trailer from back feeding into our vehicle wiring system. We have these quick taps here to make our connections in the vehicle wiring. We have our butt connector here to connect our wire to our fuse holder. We have a 15 and a 10 amp fuse we have a nice test light here to test our wires to figure which one we need to make our connection with. We have some double-sided tape to secure our module to the vehicle.

Finally, a self tapping screws so we can ground out our ring terminal here for the module to the vehicle's body. Now, we want to hook up to our trailer. All we need to do is open our hatch up, open our cover, have our wiring out and close the cover back around it. We can close our hatch. We want to hold the cable to the side of our latch right here. When we want to hook up to our trailer, we'll have our wiring easily accessible and it will store out-of-the-way when it's not in use, like we just showed.

We'll begin our installation here by opening our hatch. We'll remove our luggage cover, here, that also covers our spare tire. We'll set aside. We'll undo this large wingnut here that holds down the factory subwoofer for into our tire. We'll push down these 2 tabs, here, and unplug our subwoofer and we'll raise up the subwoofer. Set that aside as well.

Now we'll lift up on our spare tire feeding the wire out through the wheel like so. We'll remove the spare. We'll remove this tray, here, too. Set it aside. We'll pull up on the carpet here and we'll remove the door that covers our battery. Just like that. Now we'll remove these panels here on the side. Twist the knob lift out. On our hatch, we'll open the access panels that cover our connectors for our lights. We'll remove the center panel, here, as well. Turn the knob pull down and lift out. Now there's 4 225 torx screws we need to remove, one behind each taillight area. 2 more here in the center of the hatch. Now we'll take a trim panel tool, here, and separate the black portion a little bit. When you are pulling down on this panel, they are, make sure you don't touch the release button right there, so it didn't close on you. We'll separate the button by unplugging it. We're having someone help hold the panel up for us just so we can work on this easier. Take a screwdriver, here, we'll press on the tab and separate the wiring from the switch pull the wire on through and we'll plug the switchback and temporarily so we'll need to close the hatch in order to test our wiring. We'll come over here to the other side and we'll unplug the other side, too, using the screwdriver to pry up a locking tab on either side. With that separated, we can remove the hatch panel completely, now. Starting with our 4 pole flat trailer connector, here we'll feed it through this opening on the left side of the hatch and down and out through this opening here right to the side. Our green wire here from the module, this routes over to our passenger side. We'll go up here and follow the same path as the 4 pole and we are going to continue working around the inner paneling of the hatch and we'll bring it on over to our right side, where our connector is for our taillights, just like so. Now take our double-sided tape, peel off one and like so and we'll apply it to the back of our module box. With that applied, remove the other end and we are going to feed our wires, the rest of them, into the hatch and they will stick out down here. We'll push our module box up inside the hatch and then we'll place it onto the panel and press down so it's secure. This car has a rather unconventional taillight system. The way the lights work is if the rear hatch is open, the lights do not get any power and there some additional lights on the bumper. This is for emergency situation on the side of the road, if you are changing your spare tire, that way people can see the flashes being on. We need to close our hatch and test the wiring with the hatch closed. We are going to have to sit inside the hatch area while we do this. I'll press our button here to close our hatch. Make sure none of these wires get pinched we can unplug our connector, here, for our driver-side taillight. Press on the tab. With our connector unplugged, we'll take our test light, here, we'll ground it out to the negative terminal on the battery post, take our connector and we'll find out which one of our wires here is getting power with the headlights on, this controls our taillight circuit. The only one that's getting power is the blue and black wire. We'll go ahead and turn our headlights off real quick and we'll verify that wire went off with the headlights. With the headlights off, we have verified that that circuit is now dead. We are going to tap into that wire for our taillight circuit for our trailer wiring. Now we'll open our hatch to make our connections. We'll take our blue and black wire that's our taillight wire and one of our quick connects, here. We'll slide it on the wire. Now our taillight signal is run by the brown wire for our trailer, so we'll slide that in there, too. We'll squeeze the connector on down. With that done, we'll close the connector over to protect that. We've gone ahead and closed the hatch again and we've turned on our hazards, so we can find out which one of our wires functions for a turn signal. Either one of these gray wires, here, will function as our turn signal. As you can see, they both flash. Either one of those will work just fine for us. We can open up our hatch again and make our connection. Now we'll take one of our gray wires, again, there is a gray wire with a black stripe and a gray wire with a white stripe. They both get power exactly the same time, so it doesn't matter which one we choose. We'll slide one of our quick connects on just like so. Then we'll take our yellow wire and we'll install it. Then we'll crimp it down and we'll close our connector. At this point, we can plug our connector back in and slide it back onto the retaining clip that it came off of like so. Just like that. Our vehicle that we have here, today, uses the turn signals and the brake lights as one, as a combination. They aren't separate lights. This red wire, here, if we had separate brake lights, would go to the brake light wire on our vehicle. Because they are combined, we need to ground this out with our white wire. We'll remove the sticker from our wire and we'll strip off about a half-inch of insulation. Just like so. We'll twist it together and we'll folded back upon itself just like that. We'll take our small yellow ring terminal that's provided, we'll slide it onto the wire and we'll crimp it down now we'll take our provided quarter-inch self tapping screws put our ring terminal on there, and here and we'll go to a metal point, free of any wires. Right here will be good. Good. We have a nice solid ground connection now. Now we'll take our black wire, here, it's our power wire, and we'll strip off some insulation. Like so. We'll twist our wire together, here, take our provided yellow butt connector and we'll install it over the wire. We'll crimp it down. We'll take one end of our wall of black wire that's included and we'll strip off some more insulation, like that. Twist our wires together, again. We'll install it into our butt connector like so and we will crimp it down, too. Now we will wrap our butt connector up in electrical tape just to prevent any moisture, dirt or debris that could potentially into the butt connector and cause a short. Now we are going to pull back our weatherstripping here on our driver's-side we need to pull this panel back a bit to get some room. Now we're going to follow along these wires here down to the side and we'll secure our wire to our army here of the hatch, where it comes through, with a couple of ties. I'll put one there and one here near the bottom. Take our wire, we'll feed it behind this panel. Now we can reinstall our weatherstripping. Just push it back into place. Now we can reinstall our upper panel here making sure our pins go into these metal clips. Now we are going to lift the center trim piece out here. Just grab it from the bottom and pull up on it like so, to release it. Take our wire, we'll feed it on down through here until it comes out of this hole. We'll bundle it up down here for now. We can reinstall our trim panel piece here. Push it in position. Now that we have are difficult wiring routed, we can reinstall our side panel here. Just drop it into place push it in and secure the latch. With our hatch closed again, and our right turn signal turned on, we can now find out which wire's for our rights on signal. We'll undo our connector here, again. We're using our test light to shine the wire for the time signal now. We can either use the blue and gray one or the all gray. Either one of those 2 in the middle will work just fine for our turn signal wire. Now we can turn our time signal off and open our hatch back up and make our connection outside where it's easier to work with. We are going to go to our blue and gray wire here, install our quick connect onto the wire, we are going to measure off how much we're going to need of our green wire here and trim off some excess. We'll install our green wire into the connector like so and we'll crimp it on down and close our connector on up. We reinstall our connector back into the wiring for the taillight. Now we need to gain access to our positive battery terminal. Remove this cover here, set it aside. We'll remove this cover here, as well. Push on this tab and lift up. It will hinge forward like so. Now we'll measure off about how much we are going to need of our black wire, here and we'll cut off our excess. Take a wire strippers, here, strip off about a quarter inch of insulation. We'll take our fuse holder here, you may notice there is a complete circle of wire. We'll go in the middle here and we'll cut it. Take one end, here strip back about a quarter inch of insulation twist our wires together and we'll install our other yellow butt connector that's included and we'll crimp that on down. The other end of the butt connector will go to the black wire. We'll crimp that down as well. We'll make sure our connection is covered in electrical tape, again. Other end of our fuse holder, here, will strip off the end of the insulation and we'll install our medium-sized ring terminal that's included with the kit. That will get crimped as well. We are going to use a 10 millimeter socket to remove this nut here to the side of our battery post. We'll take our ring terminal come here and drop it on down like so. We'll take a flat washer that we have laying around drop it onto the stud as well, that will just give us a better contact area with our not and we'll reinstall our nut. We'll snug it down with our 10 millimeter socket again make sure our wires tucked down here to the side like so and we'll snap closed are covered here. Reinstall our plastic cover here that goes over our positive battery terminal now we'll take our included 10 amp fuse and we'll install it into our fuse holder and we'll close our cover over the fuse holder. With all of our connections made, we can begin with reassembling our hatch area. Take our wire down in here and we'll grab our plastic panel that goes in place. Take the panel, snap it into its location. Like so and we'll close the panel on down just like that. Now we can layout carpet back down. Now we'll start with our spare tire. Making sure we feed our subwoofer power wire through one of the holes in the wheel. Want to make sure the arrow that faces the front goes towards the front. Plug our subwoofer back in and we'll secure it with the wingnut. Now we can unplug our hatch close button here. Press on the tab and pull apart. Now we can reinstall our hatch close button here on our panel. Go ahead and snap it into place like so. Before I raise the panel backup, we want to take our 4 pole flat trailer connector, here, and slide it through this hole in the center of our hatch panel just like so. Now we can raise it on up, reconnect our hatch close button and our hatch light, here. All right, we got our hatch close button back in place now we'll just raise this backup and snap it into position. Now we'll reinstall our 4 screws that will hold our hatch up. We'll hold our cable out of the way and raise our panel up here. It's on a hinge, we've got to get the hinge to engage. Now we can take our wire, here, and bundle it on up for when it's not in use and it will store inside our hatch panel here just like so. We can close our door just like that and secure our latch. That's where our cable store and be out-of-the-way when we are not using our trailer. You have nothing exposed at all. We can go ahead and close our hatch, and complete our installation. Now, before we go hook up to our trailer, it's always a good idea to test your wiring to make sure your installation was successful. I'm going to use a 4 pole flat trailer tester. We have one of those available on our website as part number I26 if you would like to purchase one. I'm going to start with turning our headlights on as you can see, the red LED that corresponds to the brown wire, which is for trailer's taillight circuit is now illuminated. Now go to our left turn signal now and you can see the red LED that corresponds to the yellow wire is flashing. How do our right turn signal and then the red LED that corresponds to the green wire is flashing will turn both our turn signals off, I'll step on the brakes and as you can see, both LEDs that correspond to the yellow and green wires are on solid I step off, they go off come back on, they come back on. With all the lighting functions now verified is working, we are now ready to hook up to our trailer and have all required trailer lights working properly. That completes our installation of the Tow Ready upgraded heavy duty modulite circuit protected vehicle wiring harness with the install kit, part number 119190KIT on our 2016 Audi Q5.


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