Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser


Today on our 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser we'll be installing the Towready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring Harness, part number 118405. We'll go ahead and show you how to use the new 4-pull connector. We'll simply take it, run it to the center of the vehicle and out, and we'll simply close the rear cargo door on the wire. Then we can go ahead and pull out the 4-pull wire as necessary to go down to the hitch of accessory. Then, once we're finished using our new 4-pull wire, we'll simply roll it up and store it behind the jack. To begin our install, we can go ahead and take out the removable panel that covers the jack storage compartment. Next, we'll go ahead and remove the 5 fasteners that secure the threshold in place.

With the fasteners removed, we'll go ahead and take our trim panel tool and gently work the threshold up, releasing it from its plastic fasteners underneath. Then we'll go ahead and set it aside. Next, we'll need to remove 2 fasteners securing the quarter panels underneath the threshold. There'll be one on each side. Now, there are a total of 4 fasteners to be removed. Now, with those removed we'll go ahead and remove the access panels behind the taillight assemblies.

This will allow us to see the manufacturer's wiring going into the taillights. Starting on the driver's side with the yellow wire connector from our Towready harness, we'll go ahead and feed it up behind the taillight assembly, going through the jack storage compartment and out the access hole. Then we'll go ahead and repeat the same process with the brown and red wire connector. Now starting with our yellow wire connector, we'll need to remove the manufacturer's wiring from the socket assembly. We'll be looking for a gray wire socket and gray plug. It'll be the deepest in the access hole.

To release the wire connector from the socket, you'll need to press on the locking tab, and then pull the wire connector out of the socket. Now we'll go ahead and plug it into the socket end of our yellow wire connector, taking the wire connector end and plugging it back into the gray socket of the taillight assembly. Next we'll go ahead and connect the brown and red wire t-connector assembly. To do this, we'll remove the white plug from the white connector here behind the taillight assembly. Now we can plug inline with the manufacturer's wiring. Now with our driver's side connected, we'll go ahead and take the green wire connector coming from our converter box and route it over to the passenger side, repeating the same process.

Again, for the turn signal circuit, we'll be looking for a gray plug going into a gray socket. We'll go ahead and take some black zip ties and secure it as it runs underneath the threshold. Now with that done, we'll go ahead and take the white wire coming from our converter box with a pre-attached ring terminal that'll be the ground for our converter box. To ground it, we'll remove one of the bolts for the spare tire jack bracket. With the bolt out, we can go ahead and install the ring terminal onto the bolt, and then re-secure it. Now we'll take the red wire with the yellow butt connector coming from our converter box, which will be the power wire. We'll need to add length to it because we'll be running it up into the engine compartment, and ultimately to the battery. We'll use the long black wire provided with our install kit. To attach it to the butt connector, we'll strip back one end, insert it in the butt connector, and crimp it down. Quick tech tip: I recommend to wrap up this butt connector connection point with some black electrical tape to help keep out any dirt, dust, debris or moisture. Next, we'll need to mount our converter box. To mount the converter box, we're looking for a clean, flat piece of sheet metal to adhere it to. We'll turn the converter box over, remove the 2-way adhesive, and secure it behind the jack. Now with the converter box mounted, we can start running our power wire up to the front of the vehicle. Keep in mind when running your wires, stay away from any moving components, the steering and suspension, or excessive heat such as exhaust. To route our power wire up to the engine compartment, we'll need to get it underneath the vehicle. To do this, we'll use the grommet located here in the jack storage compartment. We'll simply use our utility knife to cut a small slice into the grommet, and then feed our wire through it and underneath the vehicle. Now that we've got our wire underneath the vehicle, we'll go ahead and start routing it up to the engine compartment. We'll remove any access hole covers to make it easier to route our wiring. For this application, we have an open frame, which means that we can route through the frame, and to assist us in routing through the frame, we'll need a pull wire. In this case we'll use a piece of air tubing. Now that we've got our wire routed to the front as far as we can go, we'll go ahead and come out of the frame, and route up into the engine compartment, securing it with black zip ties as we proceed. Now that we've got our wire routed into the engine compartment, we'll go ahead and pull it up and secure it with a black sip tie. Next, we'll route it over to the battery. Now with our power wire routed to the battery, we'll go ahead and cut it short, as we'll need to add a fuse holder. We'll go ahead and take our fuse holder, cut it in half, and strip back both ends. One end will attach the ring terminal, and our other end will attach the butt connector. We'll then take the butt connector and attach it to the power wire we just ran from the back of the vehicle. Once again, we'll go ahead and wrap up this connection point with some black electrical tape. Now we can go ahead and remove the nut on the positive battery terminal post, install our ring terminal, and then re-secure the nut. Now I'll go ahead and take a couple of the black zip ties provided with our install kit, and secure the fuse holder and wiring. With that done, we'll go ahead and install our fuse into the fuse holder, and close the cap. Next, to go ahead and clean up our install look, we'll go ahead and cut off the excess from our zip ties, we can go ahead and reinstall the interior trim components. That'll complete the install of the Towready Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring 4-Pull Connector, part number 118405 on our 2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser. .


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Test Fit:
Alan C
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Sue W
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Installed by:
Cole B

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