Curt Powered Tail Light Converter Kit Installation - 2013 Infiniti JX35

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How to Install the Curt Powered Tail Light Converter Kit on a 2013 Infiniti JX35


Today on our 2013 Infinity JX35, we're going to be installing Curt's powered taillight converter kit with 4-Pole flat trailer connector. This is going to allow you to have a 4-Pole trailer connection here on your Infinity. It will provide you with all the necessary lighting, so you'll be DOT compliant in all states. That includes your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps and brake lamps. It features a dust cap here on the end, which can help keep out dirt and debris, ensuring a long lasting connection, as well as secure your wiring up on your hitch when not in use. The powered module will help protect your vehicle's circuits, because if there's any faults on your trailer, the fuse protection that's on your module will open, ensuring that no damage occurs on your vehicle side.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle, with our lift gate open, by removing both the passenger and driver side taillights.

You'll want to use a trim panel tool to help pop this panel up. It releases by going upward. We'll now remove both the bolts located behind it with a 10-mm socket. Then we can pull our taillight assembly off. You want to kind of pull rearward and outward at the same time.

You may need to use a trim panel tool to assist in popping it loose.Here we'll have both of our electrical connectors. We're going to go ahead and disconnect both of those, by pressing in on the release tab. We can set our taillight assembly aside. We'll use the exact same procedures on the opposite side to remove its taillight assembly. We'll now trim back some of the sheathing here so we can access the wiring more easily.

This is our small connector here on our passenger side. On our driver side, we're going to strip back both connectors.We'll now feed a fish wire down through the opening here in the top. We're going to use a piece of air line tube for this. You can use anything that's fairly solid but still flexible. It will make it easier to route your wiring.

Once you feed it down, you want to pull it from underneath until you've got it straight down.Next we're going to hook up our power wire. Pull the precut end off of the module side of the black wire. Take the black out of your kit that comes in a large coiled bundle. We're going to take one end of that wire. We're going to strip it back, and we're going to connect these two together. Now you can use the yellow butt connectors that come in the kit. However, we're going to be upgrading ours to a heat shrink butt connector, since it's going to be outside the vehicle. This will ensure a long lasting connection. I'm going to go ahead and crimp those on. Then we can take our heat gun and shrink it down.Now we're going to take the red, yellow, brown and white wires coming out of our control box. We're going to tape those to the fish wire that we had run down. We're just going to use some electrical tape there. We can use this to pull it back up into our driver side tail lamp housing area. Then I'll pull our fish wire up. You may have to help guide it down below as you're pulling until we get our wiring pulled up.Now the wiring that we pulled up here, our red is our stop signal, yellow is turn signal, brown is tail lamp, and the white one is going to be ground. So we're going to go ahead and use the quick splices that come with the kit to make those connections. We're going to start with our yellow, which is our turn signal. So we got our green wire separated out here. This is the connector that only has two terminals on it. We're going to use our quick splice to crimp those together. So to do so, you slide the wire that you're going to add into one end. The other end we'll slide down the groove that's slit and open. Then you just crimp them down using a pair of pliers. So we're got it all in there, got our pliers here, and we just give it a little squeeze. Make sure that it's all the way seated. You can flip over the top and lock it in place.Our red wire will go to the green wire here on our larger connector. Snap that shut. Lastly, our brown wire is going to go to the white wire, which is the middle here. Our ground wire can attach using the self tapping screw that comes provided in the kit. We're just going to run it right here in our back wall into place. We used a 1/4" socket to do that.Now we went ahead and prepared our pull wire on our passenger side, as we're going to need that. We'll now take our connector and our green wire. We're going to route those over to our passenger side. This connector we can stop when we get about the center, wherever we want it to be. Now in order to get our wire up into our passenger side tail light housing area, we did have to extend it. It's not quite long enough. You can pick up some addition wire here at etrailer.com.Now that we've got it extended, we've taped it to our fish wire, we can pull our fish wire to feed that up. You want to make sure that you avoid your exhaust when pulling that wire up. We'll then make our connection here. We've got our green wire fed over. We're going to connect that to the white wire here on our small connector. Go ahead and feed that in. Slide our green wire in and then crimp it down.We can now take some zip ties included in the kit, and we're going to use that to clean up our wiring here, just to make sure it's all held in place. Zip tie it to the factory wiring. This will just ensure a longer lasting connection, and cleaner re-installation of your components. Now we'll go ahead and clean up our 4-Pole connector wiring. We're just going to bundle that up, zip tie the excess here. We can then use the dust cap to hold it up out of the way. We're also going to secure the green wire up and out of the way.Next, we routed our power wire up to the front of the vehicle into our engine compartment. When we run this wire, you want to make sure you avoid any moving objects such as your steering and suspension, and intensely hot objects such as your exhaust. I like to follow the factory wiring whenever possible. We took our wiring forward here, next to our charcoal canister. We went up over our rear suspension. We zip tied it to the factory wiring along the way. Stayed above that rear suspension until we got to our fuel tank. We ran down the driver side of the fuel tank, zip ting it to the bar that's located next to it. Followed that all the way forward until we got to the front here, where we shot it over to our fuel and brake line connecting point here. Zip tied it to that bracket, and now we're going to make our connection to our pull wire.We went ahead and ran a pull wire down from our engine compartment, so we can get our wire up front. So we're going to connect it just like we did with the ones in the back. I'm going to tape it onto here. Then we'll pull it up into our compartment. Pull our wire up. Once you've got it all the way pulled up, it's a good idea to just double check back down below, to make sure a loose wire didn't get caught on anything, and that you do actually have it all the way pulled up.Next we'll prepare our fuse harness here. We're going to take the yellow ring terminal that comes in the kit, crimp it onto one side of the harness. The other end we're going to connect a yellow butt connector. Once again, we upgraded to that heat shrink butt connector. The other end is going to connect to our black wire, so we want to get about the right length. It's going to go to the battery positive post here, so we're going to leave ourself a little excess, and trim off the rest.We'll now strip back our black wire, and crimp our fuse harness onto it with the yellow butt connector. Gone ahead and shrunk down the butt connector. Now we'll connect our fuse harness to our battery positive post. We're going to go ahead and remove the nut here with a 12-mm socket. Slide our fuse harness ring terminal onto that stud, and then reinstall our nut. We can reinstall the covers, and then insert the fuse into our fuse harness. You should receive a 10 amp fuse in your kit. That will simply slide in, and now you're ready to hook it up to your trailer and test everything out.We've got our tester plugged in here. You can plug it into your trailer. You want to make sure you have your left turn signal, right turn signal, tail lamps and brake lamps. With everything working properly, we're ready to button up our taillights at the back, clean up any of our wiring, and hit the road. That completes our installation of Curt's powered taillight converter kit with 4-Pole flat trailer connector on our 2013 Infinity JX35.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video by:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Chris R

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