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Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Infiniti JX35

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2013 Infiniti JX35

Today, on a 2013 Infinity JX35, we're going to review and install the upgraded, heavy duty modulite. Part number 119190KIT. Let's go ahead and cover the parts that come with the kit. First off, this is our heavy duty modulite from Tow Ready. How the modulite works is that it takes a signals from the vehicle, copies them with inside the box and then takes those signals using battery power and sends it out to your trailer. If your trailer has any shorts or any other malfunction in it, the vehicle is protected from those shorts.

This box hooks up right to your vehicle from a trailer. We'll take a 1 quick look at the wires here. You notice there's no T connectors or plug ins. This unit is designed to be herd wired into the vehicle. With that being known, it does come with the wire taps to help connect up to the wires. Also to help identify the function of the wires, it does come with a small light tester.

Also, this comes with adhesive, to mount the module into place. Also ring terminal and a ground screw for the ground and a 15 amp fuse. As we said earlier, that does get battery power, it does come with a length of wire and some zip ties to help secure the wires as well. Once you get to the battery, it does come with a fuse holder with a couple of ring terminals depending on the type of vehicle you have and a butt connector. You notice an extra fuse here, this is actually intended for a lighter duty application, so actually we will not need to use this fuse in our application. To start off our install, we need to go ahead and remove the tail lights to have access to the wires.

We'll do it from both sides of the vehicle. First off, this cover needs to be removed. I'm going to take a flat blade screwdriver and in this corner right here work it up. There's a snap about right here that you have to pop loose. It just slides vertically straight up like this and you can take it out.

To remove these 2 bolts, we'll need a 10 millimeter socket. To remove the light, it needs to be pulled off this direction. We'll use a plastic trim panel tool to help pull it loose. You can see our fitting right here that it pops into up in front and there's one back here. To remove a tail light, we'll go ahead and push down on these tabs and pull off the electrical. Push down on this tab to release it and take our tail light out of the way. Next up, we'll go ahead and remove some of the insulation so we get a little easier access to the wires. We're done with our driver's side for now, we'll go ahead and repeat the same exact sequence over on out passenger side. Let's go ahead and get our module ready to install. To do that, we want to separate our wires out and it will be easiest to work with our black wire first. We'll go ahead and take our long length of wore and connect the 2 together using a yellow butt connector. Since this will be somewhat outside, I'll give it some extra protection with some electrical tape. Take a moment to untangle our black wire and stretch it out. Now our module is ready to install. Just to give you an idea, we're going to take these wires, the white, the brown, the red and the yellow, and we're going to route this from underneath the bumper cover here and out this opening. The rest of our wires I'm going to let it hang down because they need to go either down towards the bottom of the vehicle of the other tail light and then up to the battery. To help me pull it up through there, I'm going to use a pull wire. I'm just using an old piece of airline tubing, but you can use any piece of wire that you can route down there and use it to pull it back up. This may be a good time to go ahead and take adhesive that comes with it and add it to the module. Let's go ahead and attach our wires to our pull wire and bring it up towards the top. I'm going to start off by installing my ground wire first. I'm going to use the provided self tacking screw and a quarter inch nut driver to install it. Now I'm going to test our wires for the function we need. We're going to work from brown wire first, this will be for a running light circuit. We'll take the provided tester, attach it to our ground and we'll probe the end of the socket. The end of the tester will light up so we got a running light circuit on. It looks like it's going to be the white wire will be our running light circuit. To make our attachment point it does come with the wire taps to connect into this wire. If you take a close look this is really thin material, so I'm actually going to substitute these with some butt connectors instead. Let's get our brown wire ready and then we'll take this, our running light wire, we'll cut it in half, strip the wires back, tie these 2 together like this, take my butt connector, run it over to, crimp them down. Put the other wire in there and crimp it down. We'll go ahead and check our socket 1 more time, make sure our connection is good, then we go ahead an move on to our next circuit. It looks like our green wire right here is going to be our left turn signal. We'll cut a wire again and we'll add our yellow wire to this wire. Next up, we'll go ahead and look for our break signal. We'll go ahead and have somebody else push on the break pedal, and looks like this green wire is going to be our break signal. This green wire is on the socket with the 3 wires. We'll go ahead and add our red wire to that green wire. Once we're satisfied with our connections, we'll go ahead and use some electrical tape to help secure these guys up. Then we can go ahead and reinstall our tail light. Push the connections back in until they click, pop the light back in, reinstall the hardware and the cover. Our cover has these slots that will line up with these keys right here and we push it down. Next up, we need to look for a green wire and route that up towards our passenger side tail light. However, it does look like it going to be a little bit short, so I got some extra green wire, doesn't come with the kit. An extra butt connector, just to lengthen the wire. I'll go ahead and seal it up too, then we'll go ahead and continue running our green wire up to the tail light. We'll use a pull wire like we did last time. Let's go ahead and pull up our slack of our green wire. We'll go ahead and identify our left turn signal. On the socket with 2 wires it looks like the white wire will be our turn signal. We'll go through the same steps as before. We'll strip the wires back, add our butt connector and our green wire. Now we can go ahead and reinstall our tail light for the passenger side. Let's go take a few moments to work for a 4 pull flap. I'm going to route the same way I did with my green wire behind the uprights and then we'll route it on top of the hitch, and we'll just go ahead and hook it up here to help hold it in place for now. I'll leave our wires loos now and tie them up later. Next up, I'm going to work with my black wire here. I need to route to my battery. We'll go ahead and run this up towards the front. When we do this, we want to stay away from anything that's moving like a suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. Now we'll go ahead and show you how we routed the wire. Wire came out below the bumper right here. I have it all loose for now, went behind the hitch, basically followed the lines going over the rear suspension, over the very top of it. Came down past the sway bar alongside the gas tank right here. Then I went back up to the body work here where it was opening and goes inside the frame and these out ridges. I follow that opening going all the way down and across back underneath the frame, over this body mount here between. I took this and routed it up through the engine compartment where I used my pull wire 1 more time. Was able to make a straight shot behind the brake lines and went straight up. Now we'll go ahead and take a moment to mount the module to the adhesive. Of course, everything's be behind the bumper and you have to reach up pretty far up there to find a flat piece of material to use adhesive on. It's a good idea to go ahead and clean off the sheet metal with some . I'm using some rubbing alcohol and a towel. Make sure it's nice and clean then we'll take adhesive, pull of the backing, put it in place. We're going to have to do that by feel. Let's go back to the other end of our wire up to our battery. We'll go ahead and cut it to length, we'll cut off our excess. It's always a good idea to leave some extra wire in there when you have to do some maintenance to the battery. We'll take our fuse holder, cut the loop in half. We'll strip the wires back. Go in and we'll get the ring terminal that matches the battery and the other end will get a butt connector. Once again. We'll go ahead add some extra protection with some electrical tape. Pull off the cap, and we'll go ahead and attach to this nut right here. We'll use a 12 millimeter socket to loosen it up. Ring terminal into place, reinstall the nut. Push our wire down as far as we can and put the cap back in place. Next, we'll take our 15 amp fuse, put into the fuse holder. Now a this point, everything's electrically hooked up. Now would be a good time to try everything before we zip tie and secure our wires. Now to test our wires, you can use the tester that comes with the kit, or I'm going to use something a little bit easier to see, I'll be using part number F5CT from inaudible 00:11:32. This tester we'll just plug into our 4 point wire harness. Then we go ahead and tell us that everything is working. First, we'll check our brown wire for a running light circuit and then our yellow wire for left turn signal, our green wire for our right turn signal. Now our break signal will be a constant signal on a yellow and green wires. First I'll bundle up my excess wire then secure it. Now finish it for an up graded heavy duty modulite from Tow Ready. Part number 119190KIT on this 2013 Infinity JX35.

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