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Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 Chrysler Town and Country

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How to Install the Hopkins Plug-In Simple Vehicle Wiring Harness on a 2013 Chrysler Town and Countr


Hello neighbors. It's Brad here at etrailer, and today we're taking a look at installing the Hopkins 4-Pole Trailer Wiring on a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country. Having a hitch is great because you can hook up a lot of different accessories including trailers, and part of towing a trailer is making sure you have the proper light functions. That way when you have your headlights on, or your brake signal, or even your turn signal, you're gonna let the people behind you know what you're actually doing. And that's accomplished by installing a trailer wiring harness, such as this four flat. Now this is gonna be great to just plug into your trailer and it uses factory style connectors into your taillights so you'll be able to get all those functions pretty easy.

Now it is nice because it comes with the little dust cap here as well. That kind of doubles as storage here on your safety chain loop. You can kind of just sling this around here, cap it, and that's gonna hold it in place for when you need to actually tow. Now, as I mentioned before, this does have the factory style clips which makes it really easy to not have to splice into taillight wiring. Now you are gonna have to make a few connections with butt connectors, but overall pretty easy install, and I'm actually gonna walk you through all of it.

So let's take a look at that now and get your wiring installed. Now, before beginning our installation, I'm gonna kind walk you through kind of where all the wires are gonna live. It's just gonna help kind of plan out the attack on this. So here we have our module, and this is just gonna have all our connections here. And off one side, you're gonna see we have our 4-Pole so this is gonna need to go close to the hitch but we can worry about that one a little bit later.

First, we're gonna be making connections to the taillights, and that's gonna bring us to our green wire here. You're gonna see it's pretty long. And this is because it's gonna run over to our passenger side. Now our driver's side is going to have the yellow and brown wires here, and you can see, we have our two plugs, and these are just gonna tie into the factory plugs. So that will go there.

We also have a white wire here and it has a ring terminal, and this is just gonna be for a ground screw. So we'll be drilling to make sure that we get this attached to the chassis. And then you have this red wire with a butt connector. Now this is gonna be our power wire, which will be running up to the battery, and on this vehicle, it's gonna be on the driver's side. So something to think about when we run our wire later. But other than that it's pretty simple because we're using OEM style clips. So let's get started by taking out our taillight. So when you open up the lift gate you're gonna see that there's gonna be two 10 millimeter screws here, and that's what's holding our taillight in, so. So with those 10 millimeters out you're simply gonna kind of work this back and forth to kind of loosen it up. There's little pins that go into some slots that kind of hold it in place and they can kind of fight you here and there but we're going it back and forth to loosen that up and allow us to get our taillight out. And if you need to, you can kind of use the black plastic here as some leverage to kind of just pull a little bit to put pressure on it, but with a little bit of patience and bouncing it back and forth a little bit should come loose just like that. So there's those pins and they kind of just go in these rubber spots here. So over time there's dust build-up. It can kind of get tricky, but if you do need to pry to get yours out you can see where the pry points are. Just be careful not to put too much pressure on your taillight. So from here, what we're gonna be looking for is, well, our plug. And our plug from the harness is gonna be tying into here, so we'll go ahead and get this separated here. It looks like we have a little push tab here. We'll just push that down, and then we'll pull our plug out. I'm gonna set my taillight in the back here to keep it safe. Now, as far as plugging in our harness here, there's actually a pretty large gap, in fact you can see the ground through here so you can route it up. Sometimes we use a airline tube to just pull it up but really I think I can make this connection and still have room to drop it down. So you can see, we have plugs that are identical, and this is just gonna go into the other one. So you really can't mess this up. It can really only go one way. So once you hear that snapped in, the other one is going to plug into our taillight. But before doing that I'm gonna go ahead and pass our wires down. So I've actually pulled all of this down and the modules down here and the power wire with the butt connector is not that long. So if we we're to plug this into our taillight it's gonna be really tricky to add the spool of wire. So I'm gonna do this before actually plugging into our taillight. It's just gonna save us a little bit of space to be able to get this put on there. So you're just gonna strip this back. It's already pre-stripped a little bit, but I'm just gonna give it a little bit more to bite onto. And we'll just kind of feed this into our butt connector here, and then we'll crimp this down. And then with any really electrical connection where you're crimping it down you want to give it just a quick tug just to make sure that you've actually got it bit into there and it's gonna hold. So now that we have this crimped up, I'm gonna go ahead and pull this kind of back up, just being gentle because we do have some wires obviously hanging from it and then we can take our tail light and pop this into place. Make sure you get that to snap in. Now normally when we have these run down there's generally a few spots that you can actually mount this up. This one you can see has little slots here for zip ties and just with the lack of extra wire, there's really nothing great to attach it to, and you don't want it loose because it's gonna, you know, it's gonna be bouncing around and you're gonna hear noise, plus it's just not good for the module. So what I'm gonna do here, this taillight has quite a bit of gap here and also you can see it's wide open. So I think our best option here is I'm gonna just kind of zip tie this up to the factory harness right here. We're also going to run our self-tapping screw ground in this area as well. So not ideal, but this will still work quite well in this pocket. So here I have it zip tied on, and I think this is gonna keep it from hitting against anything and making noise. It's also gonna just kind of keep it protected as well. So I'm gonna trim these little zip ties here, and then we'll grab our ring terminal as well as our self-tapping screw, and we can make that attachment point in here. And just make it snug enough to where the ring terminal's not sliding around, and that should be perfect. So I've gone ahead and removed the taillight on the passenger side and then I ran our green wire over, kind of just using the hitch as a way to route it safely. And now we have our wires here. So, pretty easy. We'll just make our connections just as we did on the driver's side. Push that in, make sure it snaps. And then now that we have that connection made we can go ahead and get our taillight back in place. So I just went and pulled that extra green wire. There's quite a bit of extra slack and I've just run it along here. You can see, I put a zip tie that goes around the hitch, and I've also ran my 4-Pole wiring over here, and right here is zip tied, and then just kind of bundled up the excess green wire here and zip tied that as well. So now that that's all secure we're gonna need to run our power wire, which I've gone ahead and done. You can see this red wire, we're gonna be tracing this back. And the main thing you're gonna wanna stay away from is anything moving. So here we have some suspension. So we have our spring and this, we have our suspension bar across here, as well as the stabilizer. So I try to stay away from there. And the best way to do that is really following a lot of the factory wire loom. So as we move forward, you can see, I just followed some of the brackets, just making some zip tied secure spots here on these brackets. There's actually a little slot you can use, and that's nice because you're not having a zip tie to a hard line here. So you just kind of run this here. And once I made it to this point, I need to go to my battery. So the way I'm gonna be doing that is I've actually run an airline tube down from the engine bay. Now, if you don't have an airline tube at home, you can use really anything like a stick or something a straight run, or even just like a string with a weight on it, and just kind of make its way down here. That way we can pull the wire up just by taping it on there. And we're gonna be watching out for our steering here; we don't want that to get in the way. So I'm gonna hop up on our engine bay and pull this up. Now, when I ran my airline down, I kind of tucked it behind the battery and I could see a straight shot down to where my wire was, and this is gonna kind of keep it against the firewall. And I used some of the actual factory loom and kind of ran behind it, and that way it's gonna protect that from making way into anything that might catch on it. So now I'm just gonna pull this up here and I'm gonna take this off of our fish wire here and we're gonna be tying into the positive battery terminal. So we're gonna go ahead and remove this 10 millimeter nut. So now we have our power wire close to our positive terminal. In fact, I have a little bit of extra, and we're gonna be adding our fuse holder on. Now it's important, don't have the fuse in the fuse holder yet. We wanna make sure we're connected, and then we can put that in, that way there's not power going through the wires. So we'll go ahead and since I have a little bit of run here I can just kind of space this out and I can cut this off. And then we'll just strip back this end and they've already put the butt connector on here, so that makes it a little bit easier. So now we can take our ring terminal and place it on our battery post and then put our 10 millimeter nut back on. Now this butt connector is actually a heat shrink butt connector. And so taking a heat gun to it or even if you have a lighter, that will also work. But just heating this up is gonna cause the ends to kind of shrink around here, and it's gonna create a nice seal and that way water and grime doesn't kind of get in where the electrical connection is made. It's just gonna give it a much longer lifespan. So as we heat around it a stitch should start shrinking around. So now that we are attached to our power we can actually take our fuse that was supplied in the kit and place this in. Now, if you need to zip tie any wires here, kind of make it a little bit cleaner, you can go ahead and do that. And then our last step is to test and make sure that our wiring harness is working. So starting off, I'm gonna use my running lights. Next I'm gonna do my left turn signal. My right turn signal. And then finally the brakes. So now with everything working properly the only thing left to do is hook up to our trailer plug in our wiring, and get to towing. And that was a look in installation of the Hopkins 4-Pole Trailer Wiring on a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Schuyler H
Video by:
Schuyler H
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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