Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2013 BMW X1

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How to Install a Trailer Wiring on a 2013 BMW X1


Speaker 1: Today, on this 2013 BMW X1, we're going to review and install the ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness, part number 119250KIT.I'll show you how to use it. First off, how to store it when you're not using it. It's gonna live right here, underneath the floor panel. When it's kept inside, you don't have to worry about it staying outside all the time, and the electrical connections being exposed to elements. If you rarely use it, this is best way to go about it.So when you do need to use it, open it up, pull out your wire, and then shut the hatch on it. Just stay away from the center of the latch, here, so you don't destroy the wires.

And if needed, you can pull it out a little bit, down to a trailer. So this is only outside when you actually need it.Alright, with your ZCI Kit, this is what comes in the box.First off, you got your wire harness right here, and your Zero Contact Interface, which means, if you look at the ends of the wires, they've got these caps that fit over the wire. So what happens when it gets installed inside your vehicle, this just simply lays in the track here and detects a current in the wire. Copies that signal out to the box, then sends that signal out to your trailer, using battery power. With this, your car is totally protected from any shorts or anything that happens beyond the car and what would be on the trailer.This length of wire here is for battery power.

It comes also with a fuse holder to protect it from the battery, and all the connections necessary. Also, to help you detect what wires you need to connect up to, it'll come with this handy little light tester.Let's move on to our install. First up, we need to get access to the back of the vehicle. Once we get inside, we'll need to remove some interior components to get access to our wires. That means our threshold, our floor coverings, and we'll loosen the side panels, here.

We also have some small access panels inside to help us out, too. We need to do this so we have room to run our wires, and also, we'll need access to the battery, as well, which would be below the floor coverings.Remove the floor coverings first. Next up, we have to remove the threshold, and that would require us to removing the tie down points right here. So we'll need a Torx bit to take it apart, and it'll be a T40 we're using. There will be one on each side of the threshold.

Two little screws that we're gonna have to remove, one on each side, using a T25 Torx bit. No we'll grab the bottom of it and pull straight up. We'll unsnap it.These little foam inserts will gently pull out at an angle, kind of roll them out. Keep them out of the way, so there'll be one on each side. We'll go ahead and remove the pockets, they just simply pull up. They kind of snap in a little bit.This here is the ZC wire harness, all sorted out, where we're gonna put all our ends at. We're just gonna lay it down flat and divvy up the wires. If you notice on the ends here, they all have labels on them. So this is going to a right turn. We're just gonna route that for now, just in that general direction. We have another one for a left turn, we'll go in that direction. We have one for our taillight circuit. That can go wherever's most convenient, but we're gonna say on the left hand side. And we also have one for our stop signal, here. We're gonna put that to the left hand side.So let's start on our passenger side. Pop out this panel right here, kind of squeeze it, it comes apart. And we've got access to our wires. Right turn, gonna go underneath here, behind the panel, pull it up through. To make things easier to discover which wire we're going to use, I'm going to disconnect the wire harness from the taillight. It's kind of hard to see, but there's a little tab that you can move with a screwdriver. Push it in and it comes out. There. But this is where you push down at, if you can get your finger there.Next, we'll go ahead and test for a right turn signal. Let's use the included tester. Ground to one of those screws right here. And flip our connector over. You see there's little places here that we can test for wires. So it looks like on our passenger side, the blue with the brown stripe. So that's the wire we need, so let's get our sensor ready. Open up the lid, put a wire in there, make sure it goes in the little tracks right here, kind of helps it guide it in place, and we'll snap the lid back over it.Now when we put our sensor into place, and put the lid on it, make sure the arrow is pointing towards the taillight. I like to leave it loose enough to make sure everything works first, then I'll wrap my foam tape around it to help secure it and keep it from rattling inside the vehicle. Once we're done with this, I'll go ahead and plug it right back into the taillight.Now we repeat these same steps back over on the driver's side with our remaining wires. Left turn signal's gonna be blue with a green stripe. Now I'll go ahead and turn on the headlights and look for a running light circuit. That looks like yellow with a black stripe. Alright, now with an extra foot, we'll go ahead and check for a brake signal. Okay, on, off. On. Cool. So our brake signal looks like a black wire with a yellow stripe. Now I'll take the plug, push it back into the taillight.Only two wires left to hook up. We're gonna look for a power wire here, which is the positive side of our battery. We only don't really need the extra length of wire that came with the kit, so what I'm going to do, is I'm going to drill a hole through the plastic right here, and put my fuse holder right on the end of our wire, and connect it to our battery. Of course, be careful next to the battery. I like to strip my wire just a little bit more than it comes from the factory. Give 'em a twist, with the included heat shrink butt connectors. Really great if you have to run your wire on the outside of the vehicle. In their case, you don't have to really worry about that, but we'll still apply some heat to it and make it look nice and neat.Our other set of wire, here, will get the provided ring terminal. Looks like there's enough stripped out, there. Crimp that down. I'm gonna use a heat gun to put heat to it. Let's open up this little lid right here, we're gonna get access to a terminal. Use a 13 millimeter socket, loosen it up. Take a ring terminal, not much room, so I need to get a little creative to put it in there at an angle. Put it into place, bring it around so you're running out the slot, here. We'll go ahead and put the nut back on, tighten it up, run the wire around the nut, that little slot right there, put our cap back into place.Now we can add our fuse to the fuse holder, put that into place. And the last one we deal with is our ground, it goes something convenient in the bodywork, where it can hide it. We use a self-tacking screw with a quarter-inch head nut driver.Now we have everything electrically connected, we need to go ahead and program to make sure it works. First off, I'll go back to our fuse holder, remove the fuse. We'll start the car. With the car running, we'll make sure everything is turned off, like no turn signals or running lights. And no holding the brake pedal down. Let's go back and reinstall the fuse. Then we need to activate each individual function. We need to leave each function running for approximately five seconds.Alright. Now go ahead and take a test of at your wire harness and verify that it works. To test it, we can use the included tester. Just ground it here, and then you can probe it. To make things easier to test, I'm gonna use a different tester. This is part number I26. So we've got a running light circuit, on. Let's go ahead and try our turn signals. We've got our left turn signal, we've got our right turn signal, and now our brake signal. And also, brakes with a turn signal, and we're all good.Alright, let's put everything back together for good. We'll take our foam tape and we'll wrap it around our connections. We'll repeat this for all our connections. Let's attach our module. I'm gonna attach the plastic right here. Clean it off with some rubbing alcohol. Make sure it's nice and clean. We'll take our pad, attach it to the back side of our module, attach our module to the panel, here.At this point, I'm gonna tidy up my wires. This is gonna be largely personal preference in how you do it, but I'm gonna just take a bunch of zip ties and kind of bundle everything together. Once you have it the way you want it, we'll reinstall all of your interior components. As I put my floor coverings back into place, I'm keeping my 4-pole wire out to make it easily accessible. And there just happens to be a little opening right here. It fits perfect.And that'll finish it for ZCI Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness, part number 119250KIT on this 2013 BMW X1.


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