Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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How to Install the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Today, this 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, we're going to review and install the Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, Part number HM56207.This will provide all the signals you need. Turn signals, left and right, your running light circuit and your brake lights.You can use a bulb and socket in some vehicles, however, when you use a wiring system like this, you don't have to worry about drilling a hole in the back of your tail light and worrying about sealing up and getting moisture inside tail light when you're done installing it.Before we get ready to install, we'll cover the parts and which direction all the wires go. Pretty easy. The T-connector to yellow wire goes to the driver's side and the T-connection with the green wire goes over to your passenger side. Of course, the 4-pole wiring harness is going to go up towards the front of the vehicle.The kit also comes with a holder for a 4-pole flat, if you're going to stay with that, some zip ties to hold the wires, some screws for the bracket and some dielectric grease to protect your electrical connections and also a cap for a 4-pole.To start off our install, we remove both our tail lights. This is our driver's side here.

To do that, we'll take a flat blade screwdriver and work our way to the center of a rivet right here, and a lot of times you can pop it out, just like that. Sometimes it helps to have a special tool to help remove it as well. The trim panel tool will do just as good.To remove our tail light, there's a fastener here and here that has to be popped loose. You do that by pulling straight back on the light. Our wire harness will plug into the tail light right here.

To remove the wire harness from our tail light, we need to take a tab and unlock it. I'm just taking a screwdriver and pushing it back. Push down on this part right here, and then it comes apart.I'm going to take this wire harness apart, too, just to give us some more working room. Push down the the tab here and pull apart. This one also has a lock.

We're done with driver's side for now. We'll do this one more time over on the passenger side.To install our wire harness, we're going to need to pull up the T-connector yellow wire up behind the bumper cover to make our connections right here, so I'm going to use a pull wire to do that. My pull wire is a piece of airline tubing. I'll just run it down, but any piece of material you can run down there and pull back up will work.I'm just going to use some electrical tape to attach it to the tubing. We'll take a T-connector and plug it into the matching ends that was originally plugged into the tail light.

At this point, we can go ahead and reconnect our tail lights to the wiring. Push together until it clicks, and push in the red tab, and the same thing with the other wire, factory wire harness, up to the lower light. Tuck our wires away, and we can reassemble the light. We'll take our fasteners, get them started, push it in, and push the centers back in.This T-connector I'm going to run across, above the hitch, and over to the other side and back over to another pull wire to bring it back up. I'm running my wires over the bumper structure support here to keep it away from the exhaust as far as possible. Once again, we'll reconnect our matching ends and reinstall our tail light.We'll take this end, with a 4-pole, and run it underneath the vehicle and up towards the front, through the engine compartment, and back down to the front of the vehicle where electrical will be mounted on the baseplate.When we run the wire harness up towards the front, we want to stay away from anything moving, like suspension components or anything hot, like the exhaust. Yeah, you're going to get close, but we'll do the best we can.Starting off from back here behind our bumper, ran our wire up to the first wire harness here. Loosely follow it over the rear suspension, put over it . I zip-tied it to the top of this component right here to keep it away from all the moving stuff. Follow it on over to the side here, zip-tied where else I could, following some lines, went along the gas tank here, and there's a shield right here. I loosened up a couple of fasteners, just pulled down so I could tuck it in behind it.Working my way up towards the front here, I kind of stayed in this channel, and then to here, where it got close to the exhaust. I actually hid it behind the exhaust heat shield here. You can remove this nut with a 10 millimeter socket and just pop it loose and hide the wire behind it. I continued along the frame.Not much to work with the frame right here, so I used some loom clamps to help hold the wire up away from all the suspension components here. Came up behind the radiator area and went straight up to the top engine compartment. Pulled to the top here and left a generous service loop here of wires, in case you ever add a supplemental braking system to the unit. Some of those actually require the left-in turn signals to work, so have a big loop here to make it easier to work on in the future.Then I ran it underneath of the intake right here. There's this plastic piece with two plastic rivets that hold it in place. Just snuck it below, underneath of it, down behind the grill, til it met the wire harness again, then brought it out towards the position of our base plate for our wire harness.On the side right here, I used provided self-tapping screw and a quarter-inch nut driver to attach the ground wire to the frame in this area right here.You notice I have my bumper cover off. When I did the wiring, it's always good idea to do your base plate, or attach the points, first, and while you have your bumper cover off, go ahead and run your wires.Once you have everything back together, it's a good idea to go ahead and test out your lights. Hook it up to a vehicle with a 4-pole flat, and we'll try it out. First off, we'll try our running light circuit, then our left turn signal, then our right turn signal. Our turn signal works. We definitely have our brake lights working.We have a wire end right here. You may want to replace this, or if you want to use included bracket, I'll just give you a quick overview on how that works. Basically, you have this 4-pole cover that goes over it. It just kind of slips over to a groove that's built into the 4-pole, and then your bracket is designed to fit around it with the 4-pole cover. It clamps over it. Then you attach it to your vehicle.When you install this, you can mount it up like this, or maybe on the bottom, personal preference. This bracket'll work great for a vehicle where you're only using just the lighting circuits right here.That'll finish it for Hopkins Custom Tail Light Wiring Kit for Towed Vehicles, Part number HM56207, on this 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

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