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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Subaru Impreza

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Subaru Impreza


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Subaru Impreza we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw Tite Class I custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number DT24959.My overall impression of this hitch, it is one of the nicer looking ones because it does stick up nice, close to the bumper and hugs the car nicely. However, it is a Class I, so we are going to be limited on the accessories and the weight that we can pull with it. But compared to the Curt Class I, we're not going to have to worry about using any kind of stabilization straps if we are carrying a bike rack or a cargo carrier. It is going to sit right below the bumper, and that cross tube going from side to side is going to be visible. It's going to give us that inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening, which is going to be great for some smaller bike racks or a small cargo carrier. Just keep in mind, since it is a Class I, it's only going to accept Class I accessories because there is that stop inside the back of the receiver tube.Now, the way we're going to mount all of our accessories to the hitch pin hole here, and it is going to accept a half-inch pin and clip.

These aren't included in the kit, but you can pick them up on our website using part number PC2. Our safety chain connection points are going to be a loop style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube. As you can see we're not going to have too much trouble getting most sized hooks on and off.As far as weight capacity is concerned, our hitch is going to have a 200 pound tongue weight which is going to be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. It's also going to have a 2000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the total amount it can pull, including the trailer and everything you load on it. Now, with all that in mind you should always double check your Subaru's owner's manual to make sure you don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.I'd like to give you a few measurements, and those are going to help you in deciding for accessories, like a bike rack or a cargo carrier.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper, it's going to be right about 3 1/4 inches. That measurement's going to come in handy when you're looking at accessories that are folding, that way you can make sure you have enough clearance between the accessory and your bumper so they don't make contact. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to be right about 11 1/2 inches. At that height I would recommend an accessory that has a raised shank, that way you know you have enough ground clearance. Also, keep that measurement in mind when you're looking for a ball mount to find the appropriate rise or drop for your trailer.Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.

If we come underneath our car, right above where our tailpipe is on our frame rail we're going to have some plastic plugs. On each side we're going to have a total of three, but we're only going to be removing the very rear one and the one toward the front of the car. You take a flat head screw driver, you just get underneath the side of it and we can pop them out. We'll do that same thing on the other side of our frame.Now the hole toward the front of our car is going to serve as our access hole to get our hardware in place, however we're going to have to file it just a little bit so we can get our hardware through. I'm going to take a file on a drill and just enough just to go ahead and get my hardware in, and periodically you want to double check to make sure it fits.

If you don't have a power file like this, you can use a hand file, or even a drill bit just enough to wallow out the edges so you can get your hardware in.We're going to need to lower our exhaust, but before we do you're going to want to put a strap up to support it so it doesn't fall down too far. You just want to find a sturdy location and we're going to have three points that are going to be holding our exhaust up, one toward the passenger's side right by our tail pipe, and we're going to have two hangers on the driver's side. It will help if you get a little bit of spray lubricant and spray it on the rubber isolator and hanger, and if you have a pair of exhaust hanger removal tools you can use that. If you don't just use a pry bar, and the main goal here is just to slide that rubber isolator off of the metal hangers.No, our exhaust didn't lower down quite as much as we wanted it to, so we're going to move farther back right by our rear axle, and we're going to have another hanger we can lower down. We can adjust our strap to give us a little bit more room. We can start putting our hardware in place. I'm going to take one of our fish wires and we're going to go in the hole toward the very back of the frame. We're going to start feeding it through until it comes out the hole toward the front of the frame that we enlarged. Once it does, put a slight bend in it so that we can have the tail sticking out, and the pulled end sticking out as well. We're going to take one of our black spacer blocks, slide it over the coiled end, followed by one of our carriage bolts that we're going to thread on the end, and we're going to push each piece into the frame, one at a time and pull on our pull wire till our hardware drops through.Now, the one hole toward the front that we enlarged is going to be slightly different. We're going to take our pull wire and our spacer block, same thing. Slide it over the coiled end and then grab our carriage bolt, thread it onto the end, and we're going to feed our carriage bolt in first and then push our spacer block in and then have it drop down through the bottom. Now that we have this side done, we're going to go ahead and repeat that on the other side. We're going to have one more spacer block, and it's going to have a round hole on it. This one's actually going to get sandwiched in between the frame and our hitch. To make things easier on ourselves, rather than try and rustle around with it when we put our hitch up, we're going to take a piece of tape and I'm going to tape it to my hitch, and this is going to be going towards the front of the car so you want to make sure you have it in the correct spot. Now, we'll go ahead and tape the other one on the other side as well.Now with an extra set of hands we're going to lift our hitch into place. You just want to make sure you put your pull wires through the top going down of the hitch. You can lift it up, line up our hardware and we can remove one of our pull wires and we can get our hardware in place. We're going to start with our flat washer, followed up by a lock washer and then finally we're going to secure it with a hex nut. You want to get one on each side hand tight so the hitch can support itself, and then we can get the rest of our hardware in place. I'm going to come back with the 11/16 socket and snug up all my hardware. We're going to come back with the torque wrench and I'm going to torque all my fasteners down to the specified amount in the instructions.With our hitch torqued down we can lift our exhaust back up. I'm just going to lift it up till it reaches those rubber hangers and slide them back on. With our exhaust back in place you can remove the strap from earlier.That will finish up your look at the Draw Tite Class I custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number DT24959 on our 2018 Subaru Impreza.

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Robert C

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