Menu Icon

Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Kia Stinger

content loading



Customers compare 24974 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Kia Stinger


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Kia Stinger, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw Tite Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 24974. Speaker 2: Here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it fully installed. Now, one of the nicest things about this is that it's going to be completely hidden behind the bumper and all we're going to see is that receiver tube sticking out. Now, it is going to give us that inch and 1/4 by inch and 1/4 receiver tube opening, which is going to be good for bike racks and some cargo carriers.The way we're going to mount any of the accessories is through the hitch pin hole here on the side. It is going to accept a standard 1/2 inch pin and clip. Now, these aren't included in the kit, but you can pick them up here at etrailer.com.

The safety chain connection points are going to be a loop style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube, and as you can see, we're not going to have too much trouble getting most size hooks on or off. The very slight offset from the hitch pin hole means we're not going to have to worry about interference when we go to put our safety chains on.As far as weight capacity goes, our hitch is going to have a 200 pound tongue weight, which is the maximum downward force of the receiver tube, along with a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now, with those numbers in mind, you should always double check your Kia's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. I personally like the fact that it's going to be a really nice hitch for bike racks, because our pin hole is going to pretty far out and we're going to have a lot more clearance when it comes to the rear bumper here. We're not going to have to worry about hitting our leg as we walk by.I'd like to give you a few measurements, and that's going to help you when deciding for accessories for your new hitch.

From the center of your hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be right about 3 inches. Now, that measurement's going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories, to make sure you have enough clearance and it doesn't come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be right about 11-1/2 inches. Now, with that measurement I would definitely recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank. That way, we get a little bit more ground clearance.

Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to come to the rear underneath the back of our bumper on our Stinger, and we're going to find these push pin fasteners. We're going to want to pull all of these out along the center, as well as both sides. We'll take a trim panel tool, we'll come into the center section, pull that out. Then pull the rest of the push pin out. Then underneath the exhaust on both sides we're going to have two bolts.

We'll grab a 10 millimeter socket and pull all of them out. Now, behind the tire in the rear wheel well, we're going to have four screws that we're going to have to pull out. You can grab a small Philips bit driver, and we'll pull all of them out.On each side if we open our hatch, we'll have this plastic cover that's going to be covering up the screw that's holding our taillights in place. We'll take a flathead screwdriver, we'll pop that cover out, which will give us access to the Philips screw inside. We can grab a Philips screwdriver and pull the screw out. With that screw removed, we're going to pull this black plastic cover off, and if we look in between the body and the taillight here, we're going to have another Philips screw holding it in place. Now, it's very limited on space, so you can grab a 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench or an open ended wrench and we'll loosen that bolt up. Once we have that bolt loosened enough, we're going to pull back away from the vehicle, and we can take our taillight assembly and disconnect it.We come to the bottom here, we'll find a plug. There's going to be a little tab on the end that, if we push on it, it'll lift that little lever up and we can pull the connector aside, and set our taillight assembly aside so it won't get damaged. We'll do that for the other one as well. Then right underneath the taillight, we're going to have another push pin that we'll have to remove. Then right by the body here, we're going to have another Philips screw that we're going to have to pull out as well. You want to make sure you remove those on both sides.Now, if we start where our fender meets our fascia, we can start peeling everything back. We'll grab the edge here and we'll start pulling it away. There's going to be clips that are going to be releasing as we go. Now, as we get to this section right here, if you look in there you can see where those clips are. Now, it gets a little tight right there and you don't want to pull and break that plastic, so you may need to get a screwdriver or a trim panel tool to kind of pry up on the fascia itself to release that clip. Then we're going to start working our way towards the center, slowly pulling away, but keep in mind you may have backup sensors, so you don't want to pull the fascia away too far.Now, if you pull your fascia away and you feel it's kind of tight, because right here in the center by the opening of the hatch we're going to have these metal clips. Now, you can either reach under there with your hand or get a screwdriver or a trim panel tool, but we're going to want to pop that off so it completely comes off the plastic. That way, it'll allow that plastic piece to be free from the fascia.Now, we are going to have our backup sensors, and we're going to have these little clips that are holding the wiring harness all the way across the bumper. You want to grab a pair of needle nose pliers and we'll squeeze it and then feed it through where it pops out, freeing the wire from the bumper. Now, we're going to have several of these going all the way across, so we're going to want to do that for each one.On the driver side edge here, we're going to have a plug. We push in on that tab, we can unplug it. Then if we move towards the center, we'll see that we're going to have another wiring harness that's going to go behind the bumper beam here. We're going to have to unplug two of those as well. Now, the plugs are just held onto the frame with a push pin fastener, so if you just grab it, it'll come right off.We're going to have one more wire with this yellow coating around it. If we come to where the plug is, we can push in on that large tab and separate the two. Then finally, we can pull the fascia away and set it aside where it won't get damaged. When we we're taking the fascia off, we did find that we had three more plastic push pin fasteners that was underneath the fascia that we couldn't see until we had the top section open. It'll be three more right here, just like the other push pins that we're on the bottom.Now we're going to need to lower our exhaust down, but before we do, you want to make sure that it's supported so it doesn't drop down too far. We'll find a secure point on our vehicle to hook a strap to. We can make sure that there's some tension, then we can start working on taking the hangers off. On each side, we'll have a rubber isolator that's going to be very close to the rear axle here. Then on the mufflers themselves, we're going to have this hanger that we can unbolt that's going to be right towards the tailpipes.On the hangers now of the rubber isolators, you're going to want to spray those down with a spray lubricant. Then we can take a pry bar and use it to pry against the isolator so it'll slide off the hanger. We'll grab a 12 millimeter socket, then we'll pull the nuts off the exhaust here. We can slowly loosen up that strap so we have a little bit more room to work with, but it still has some support.Now, on each side where our mufflers are, we're going to have our heat shields right above there, and there's going to be a total of six nuts that are holding it in place. You want to grab a 10 millimeter socket and you want to pull each one of those out. We can pull our heat shield down and we'll set it aside for right now. You'll want to take off both of the heat shields on each side.Now, the center fascia support tab is going to be held on by a Philips head screw at the top. We're going to need to remove that so we can make room for the hitch. Take a Philips head screwdriver and pull the screw out. Now, also just right below that, we're going to have this metal tab. This may interfere with the hitch, so we have the option where we can just bend it up, either with a hammer or a pair of pliers. Just going to bend that up so it's no going to be protruding out so much.Now, on the side of the frame on each side, we're going to have this foam tape. Then on the bottom, we're going to have this rubber plug. All of this is going to need to come out, so we can take a flathead screwdriver and pull pry the plug out, exposing the hole in the bottom of the frame. Then we can start scraping away the foam tape that's on the side of the frame to expose the holes. Now, even if you expose the hole, you want to make sure you try to get as much as that tape off of there, because we don't want to have it interfering with the hitch, causing any kind of seating problems when we go to put our hardware in place. Make sure, you want to do that for both sides of the frame.We can grab our support bracket, you want to make sure that the three holes are going towards the back of the car with the two square holes on the bottom. We'll lift it up, and it's going to line up with the three holes that we're behind that foam tape. We're going to be securing it to the frame using the hex bolts and the conical tooth washers, and you want to make sure those teeth are facing towards the bracket. The holes they're going to line up with have weld nuts inside, so you just want to get it loosely tightened up, just enough so it'll hold itself up there. Then we'll get the rest of the hardware in.Now, the hole towards the front of our vehicle is going to be our last attachment point. We're going to want to take our pull wire, we're going to take the coiled end and go through the bracket and into the frame. We're going to try to get it to come out the large hole at the bottom of the frame. Now, you want to make sure you have the tail still coming out one end and the coiled end coming out the other end.We'll take one of our square hole spacer blocks, slide it over, and then thread on one of the smaller carriage bolts in our kit. We'll push our spacer block into the frame, followed by the bolt. We're going to pull on the pull wire until we can get the bolt to come through the bracket and the frame. Now, for right now we're going to leave this pull wire attached and we'll put the other one in place on the other side. I'm going to grab a 17 millimeter socket and I'm going to snug up my three bolts towards the back. You can see, that's going to draw the bracket in so that way I can make sure I have enough threads sticking out so I can attach everything at the front of the bracket.Now, to make sure we don't lose our bolt back in the frame, I'm going to take a conical tooth washer and I'm going to slide it around my pull wire, slide it up to my bolt. This way, I can keep a little bit of the tension on that bolt while I pull the pull wire off. It kind of helps if you push down or to the side to keep the bolt still. We're going to take a hex nut and secure it down. Just keep in mind there, are only maybe a few threads on there, so you want to be careful not to push it back into the frame. You just want to get that bolt started. Then we can come back with that same socket and we'll snug the nut up.Now, since we have limited room in here, we're going to go ahead and torque down our support brackets before we put the rest of our hitch in place. Now, it may help to use a universal joint and an extension to reach in there. We'll find the torque settings in our instructions. With our brackets tight against the frame, you're going to notice that we're going to have two square holes on the bottom. We're going to want to grab our larger carriage bolts and coming from the top, we'll drop the bolt down, making sure that it drops all the way in, and that flat section engages the square. We'll do this for both sides.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to raise our hitch up. You may need to pull the fascia support tabs to where they're going to be in front of the hitch. We'll raise it up so those bolts drop through. Once both of them are dropped through, we're going to take another one of our conical tooth washers, making sure it faces up towards the hitch, and a 1/2 inch hex nut and we'll secure the hitch at least with one on each side. That way, we won't have to worry about it falling down.Now we'll come back with either a 3/4 inch or a 19 millimeter socket and snug up the hardware on the bottom of our hitch. We'll come back with a torque wrench, and we're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. Now we're going to have to trim both of our heat shields. There are going to be trimmed the exact same way, just in a mirror image.If we find our instructions we can trace out where we're going to need to trim, and then I'm going to be using a pair of tin snips to cut through the heat shield. We'll go ahead and trim the other one as well. Once we have it trimmed, you'll see that the recessed cut out area here makes room for our hitch. We can reinstall the nuts that are holding it in place. Just keep in mind that we did lose that one attachment point when we trimmed out our heat shield.Put the heat shield back in place, we can reinstall our exhaust. Now, I went ahead and marked out the area that we're going to need to trim, and you'll find that diagram in your instructions. You're going to want to take your time cutting that out. I'm going to be using a rotary tool, but you can use whatever you have available. We can always come back and clean up the edges and trim any excess plastic off, as well as clean off the excess paint. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to plug all of our sensors back in as well as reconnect everything and hook our fascia back up. Speaker 1: That'll finish up your look at the Draw Tite Class I Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 24974 on our 2018 Kia Stinger.


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment


Info for this part was:

Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.







^
About Us
photos and videos
1,056,204

Original Photos & Videos

Produced to make sure you know what you are getting and you get exactly what you need.

installations
35,570

Installations Completed

To make sure products work and fit the way they are supposed to.

etrailer call center
2,476,511

Phone Calls & Emails Answered

1,125,924 phone calls and 1,350,587 emails to help find the right solution.

etrailer training
400+

Average Hours of Product Training

We get to know our products firsthand so experts can better help you.

etrailer service
71

Years of Quality Customer Service

Assisting our neighbors and customers, face to face at the counter.

etrailer experts
193,357

Pages of Expert Information

Created to make sure you have all the answers to your questions, from real experts.