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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Ford F-150

Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Ford F-150, we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame custom fit class III trailer hitch receiver, offering the two inch by two inch receiver tube opening. It's part number is 75216.Here's what your hitch is gonna look like installed. As you can see, it sits just inside the edge of the bumper there, gives you a really nice, clean look. Gonna have the rounded cross tube that's gonna come to both side plates that are gonna go up and make connection with our frame. Also, a few connection points in behind the bumper.Now this is a class III hitch, so you can see we've got the two inch by two inch receiver tube opening. Makes it very, very versatile, especially with the ball mounts and things like that.

There's many different rises and drops available. You want to be sure you choose one of those that's rated for class III, but there are also other tons of other class III accessories out there on the market.Now, to secure those items in place, you always want to use that forward pin hole location. It's gonna be slightly larger. It's five eighths of an inch in diameter, so there's gonna be plenty of room there, so whatever type of anti-rattle bolt, locking hitch pin, or just regular pin and clip you choose, should work out fine. Now, one type of anti-rattle device that's available is the J pin stabilization system.

That's the only time we're gonna use that smaller hole closer to the rear, and that's just made to kind of lock your item in place and prevent it from wiggling around.Now, as far as safety chains go, you'll see we've got a plate style connection point here with a nice, large hole. So, your smaller utility type chain should work out well with no real issues getting them on and off, and also even if you go to the larger clevis style hooks and stuff like that, gonna be able to connect them without any problem.You can see our truck's equipped with the four pole plug here. Not a lot of interference with the hitch and the four pole, so that would still be usable. However, if you decide to upgrade that four pole to a seven pole, they do have a bracket right here that'll make it easy to mount that in place. Three pre drilled holes there will accept the bracket and hold your seven pole, and then you can have the best of both worlds, have your seven pole and four pole available for use.Now, as far as weight ratings on our hitch go, we're gonna have a 900 pound tongue weight rating, that's the maximum downward force we can put here at the receiver tube opening.

And if offers a 6,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. That would be total weight of your trailer and anything you we're to load up on it. It is also rated for use with weight distribution, so if you use inaudible 00:02:16 bars, spring bar setups, something like that, the tongue weight rating's gonna go up to 1,200 pounds. Gross trailer weigh rating is gonna go up to 12,000 pounds. That definitely makes this the ideal Draw-Tite hitch for use with weight distribution.

Of course, you will want to check your owner's manual on your F-150 to see what its tow rating is, and not exceed that.Now, a couple of measurements you're gonna find helpful in selecting your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier. Will be from the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening, we're gonna have about 19 and a half inches. Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of our bumper, it's about two and a half.Now, to begin the installation, you may want to loosen or remove your spare tire. That's gonna be up to you. But it can provide better access to some of the hardware and getting it in place.We're gonna have on each side of the vehicle three attachment points, and they're gonna be exactly the same. The lower attachment point is gonna be right down through the center of this large hole. You're gonna use a carriage bolt and a spacer block, and that's gonna sit right on top. And they do provide pull wires for you, to help you get this in position. As you can see, it's fairly open. And usually you can do it just by hand. We'll want to position it so our block rests on top and our bolt comes down through, and we're gonna do that on both sides.Now the two other attachment points we're gonna on each side are gonna be right on the backside of the bumper. They're gonna be the bolts that the flange nuts are on that hold the bumper in place. Again, we're gonna have two of these on each side of the vehicle, and before loosening these, our hitch sits in behind them, we really need to support our bumper. So, I'm gonna do a cam buckle strap here on my bracket and then we'll run this forward and connect it on the frame. Now, what we want the straps to do are to pull inward on the bumper while we take those nuts off. That'll allow us to put our hitch in place, and put our nuts back on. We're also gonna support it from underneath with a jack stand to keep it from rolling down and away from the truck.Now, for the two nuts, you're gonna need a 21 millimeter socket, and we'll begin to loosen them up. Once we have them removed, we're gonna hang onto them. We're gonna be reusing them for our hitch. I'm gonna head to the passenger's side and do the same thing there.Now we need to pull our jack stand down so we have room for our hitch to come through. As you do that, you definitely want to make sure you have plenty of support and just watch that bumper and make sure it's not rolling out or coming off the truck, and then we can get our hitch put up in position and our nuts reattached.Now, our hitch is also gonna use two forward attachment points on our frame rail. We've got a hole located right here on the outside of the frame rail, it's gonna be right here, and then if we go straight back, there's another hole right here. We're gonna be using the lower hole. You see there's two together there, we're gonna be using the lower here, and the lower here.Now, to get our hardware in place, we can use our pull wire. We want to go through the hole. We want the bolt to come through, and then we'll guide it back. We're gonna come out the larger hole right here on the side of the frame. Place on one of our spacer blocks, thread on one of our carriage bolts, get that thread in frame, and we'll just gently pull through. We'll just gently pull on that wire, and see our bolt will come through the frame rail. Once it gets engaged in that spacer block, we just want to let it rest back in the frame. We'll do that same thing for the one closer to the rear of the truck. Then we're gonna go to the passenger's side, and we'll do the same thing there.Now, with the help of an extra set of hands, we're gonna get our hitch lifted up into position. The side plates need to go between the spring and the frame here, and we'll bring our pull wires through those brackets from the indie towards the outside. Now, once we have the back of the hitch plate here on our bumper bolts, it's a good idea to put one of your nuts on there. That'll just keep everything held in place. And we'll come to our forward attachment points. I'm gonna start pulling on the pull wire, and we'll get that pulled right through the hole. Now we can put our conical tooth washer. You can see the teeth we want facing up towards the hitch, and our hex nut on all three of our carriage bolts on both sides. Got these and the ones up here. Let's get our other flange nut put on there.Now we're ready to go through. We're gonna snug down all of our hardware. We'll use the 21 again for the bumper nuts, and then for our carriage bolts, we're gonna use a 19 or three quarter inch.Now if you'll look in the instructions, you're gonna find the torque specifications. You want to go through and torque all of our fasteners down to be the appropriate specification.Now we'll get our straps pulled down. If you removed the spare tire, just get that put back up in place, and after that, the hitch is gonna be ready for use.With everything torqued down properly and back in place, that's gonna completely our installation of the Draw-Tite Max-Frame custom fit class III trailer hitch receiver, part number 75216 on our 2018 Ford F-150.