Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Ford Escape - Draw-Tite

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Ford Escape

Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Ford Escape you're gonna be taking a look at and I'm gonna show you how to install the Draw-Tite class three Max-Frame trailer hitch receiver, part number 75782.One thing I really like about this hitch is that the cross tube is basically completely hidden behind the bumper fascia, the only thing really visible is your receiver tube and it even sits back enough pretty far underneath the bumper fascia that you're not gonna have to to worry about hitting your legs or your shins on it when you're loading and unloading the vehicle.This is gonna be a class three hitch, it's gonna be two inch by two inch, you can see it's got a reinforced collar to give you a little extra stability. This forward hole here it's gonna be five-eighths inch hitch pin hole, this back hole here this is gonna be for a J-pin stabilization device only. The J-Pin stabilization device is gonna take the shake and play out of any of your hitch mounted accessories. It's gonna have ring style safety chain loops, you can see it gives you plenty of room for different size safety chain hooks. Another nice thing about this hitch is you're gonna have your pre-welded plate for any wiring accessories you may have if you're pulling a trailer.Now you're gonna have a max tongue weight of 525 pounds, that's the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube. We're gonna have a max trailer weight of 3,500, that's the trailer plus the load included.

I do recommend checking the owners manual of your Escape to make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight, you're gonna want to go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch. Now you can use weight distribution with this, tongue weight is gonna stay the same however trailer weight's gonna go up to 5,000 pounds.Now let's give you a few measurements to help you when deciding on any hitch mounted accessories you may needs such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper will be about four inches, from the ground to the top inner most part of the receiver tube will be about 16 and a half inches.Now I'm gonna show you how to get this installed. First thing we need to do to start our installation is we need to lower our exhaust. To do that we're gonna have two bolts on each side holding up this bracket attached to our exhaust.

I'm gonna take a half inch socket and we're gonna remove those, you're gonna repeat that same thing on the other side of the vehicle. You'll have an exhaust hanger right in front of your axle or right above your axle here and we're gonna need to take that out too so you just want to spray some lubricant on it and make it a little bit easier to take off. Then we'll take a pry bar and we're gonna pry off this end here. Next we're gonna remove these hangers from the exhaust post, again we'll spray it down with a little lubricant, just like that, and we'll do the same thing to the other side of the vehicle.Next we need to mark and trim our heat shield on both sides of the vehicle. On our drivers side you'll see an attachment point here, we want to go just behind that, go across like this, then down like this we're gonna be taking all of this out.

To make that easier we're gonna remove that, pull our heat shield down away from the frame, we'll use a three-eighths socket. I'm gonna use tin snips, you can use whatever you've got that can cut this tin here, it's aluminum. Now we can reinstall the nut holding your heat shield up. Then on our passengers side we're actually just gonna cut this whole section off here.We're gonna have three locations where we'll be mounting our hitch, one of them is gonna be here, one's gonna be here, and one's gonna be up on the side. However the head of the bolt will not fit through the hole so we're gonna have to open this up a little bit.

You can use a file, I'm gonna use a file bit. I'm just gonna take out a little bit on one side, enough to get that bolt through there. Then we're gonna repeat that same thing for the other side. One thing that I suggest is with the bare metal that you have there take some clear coat or a little bit of spray paint, some Rust-Oleum paint, and cover that bare metal so it doesn't start rusting or corrode, kind of help prevent it later on.We're gonna have two different size fascia blocks in your kit, you're gonna have four long ones like this and you're gonna have two short ones, and you're gonna have six carriage bolts. What we want to do we're gonna take your pull wire, we're gonna go to this hole right here on the outside furthest to the back and we're gonna feed the spring end of our pull wire through the hole and we want to come out here. We're gonna take our long spacer block or one of our long ones, push it up into the hole, and we're gonna take our carriage bolt and we're gonna thread it on to the spring end. To make this easier to get it in the hole because it'll be hard to do like this, whip this over and feed the head end of the bolt in first. Pull it just like that.Since our hitch is gonna be mounted right there we're gonna take this and push it back inside the frame like that. Now I'll leave the pull wire and take another pull wire and go right through the small hole here like this. Then here we're gonna take our small spacer block push that through the hole, same process there, and we'll pull that down. Again make sure you leave your pull wires attached. Then for this hole we're gonna do what's called a reverse pull, we're gonna thread on our hardware just like this and we're gonna push our bolts first and then we're gonna push our separate spacer block right there just like that. Now we're gonna repeat that same process on the other side.Now before you can put your hitch up you're actually gonna have a bolt like this on each side. It's gonna go through a hole right here on the back of the frame through your bumper beam. You want to make sure you test fit them first, make sure they're gonna slide through there pretty easy. You'll notice this one it's kind of a little bit hard to get in, almost like the bumper beam is just up just a little bit on that or the hole's not in the right spot. The bolts kind of pushing up, I want that to be flat so I'm gonna take a drill bit and just kind of clean that edge off a little bit. Now you can see it slides through easy. Again if you do anything where you have to strip down any bare metal just make sure you spray it, a little preventative maintenance for later on.With an extra set of hands we'll get our hitch into place. We're gonna start on our passengers side and we're gonna go over top of our exhaust. Then we get our pull wires in the corresponding holes in the hitch. You're gonna notice four holes down at the bottom, you're gonna use this second hole and then the one that's furthest to the back. We'll pull the two out, one on each side, and that'll hold our hitch in place.I'm gonna start with these bolts here, go ahead and take off our pull wire, put on our conical toothed washer, and then our nut like that. We're gonna loosely install it right now and gonna do that same thing on the other side. Next we'll remove our pull wire, conical toothed washer and make sure the teeth are facing up toward the hitch, and then we'll add on our nut. Now keep in mind this is the one that's gonna be towards the front of the vehicle, again we want to keep it loose. We're gonna add a flat washer, a lock washer, and then the nut. Keep your holes lined before your exhaust hanger, go ahead and hand tighten this front one it'll hold the front of your hitch up and then go ahead and hand tighten the rest of them.Now we're gonna have a bolt, a small black bolt like this, that's gonna go for this bracket through here and come out here. What we've gotta do is we have some washers in our kit, we've gotta fit them right up in between here. Now directions say to do three, I don't know if we're gonna get three in there. One way that I've found to get up in there, because you obviously can't fit your fingers in there, if you take, sometimes a wire hanger will even work, take a washer, put some tape on the end of, you can see this is a skinny screwdriver, put it on like that and we're gonna tape this washer on here. Try not to cover the hole, we just want it on there enough to feed it up in there, just to hold it like that.You're gonna take your hardened bolt and you're gonna put a flat washer on it. Now we'll take our bolt from the inside and we're gonna slide our washer up in between like that. Then we're gonna put on a small conical toothed washer, teeth facing towards the hitch, and then the nut. You're gonna repeat that on the other side. Next we're gonna tighten all of our hardware, we're gonna start with this bolt here to pull our hitch as far back as we can and make sure that our holes line up for all our brackets, we'll use a half inch socket. Then we'll move to the next one which is gonna be this one here, then we'll move to this one up here, we'll be using the same socket 11-16ths, and then we'll move to this one. Same socket, 11-16ths, and we're gonna repeat that for the other side.Next we'll put our exhaust hangers back in place and we're gonna take our small hex bolt in the kit, small lock washer, followed by a flat washer, do that same thing on the other side and we'll take a half inch socket and tight it down. We're gonna torque this bolt first, we'll use a half inch socket and we're gonna repeat that same thing on the other side. We'll use an 11-16th socket and we're gonna torque these down then you'll repeat that on the other side. Then we have our last exhaust hanger to put in place and we're ready to go.That'll do it for our look at and installation of the Draw-Tite class three Max-Frame trailer hitch receiver, part number 75782 on our 2018 Ford Escape.

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Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Shane H
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Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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