Menu Icon

Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Dodge Charger

content loading



Customers compare 36548 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Dodge Charger


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Dodge Charger, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class II Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 36548.Here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it fully installed. Now it is going to hang down below the bumper and the cross tube is going to be visible. It's going to offer us an 1-1/4 inch by 1-1/4 inch receiver tube opening which means this is going to be great for bike racks or other small accessories.Now the way we're going to attach any of our accessories to the hitch pin hole here on the side and it is going to accept a standard 1/2 inch pin and clip. Now while these aren't included in our kit, you can pick them up here at etrailer.com. And as far as the safety chain connection points go, it's going to be a loop style, welded to the bottom of the receiver tube and as you can see, we're not going to have too much trouble getting most size hooks on or off and we'll have plenty of room to get those on there and not have to worry about interference with the pin and clip.As far as weight capacity goes, our hitch is going to have a 300 pound tongue weight, which is the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. It's also going to have a 3500 pound gross trailer weight rating which is the amount it can pull including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it.

But with those numbers in mind, you always want to double check your owners manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.Some of our customers have expressed a little bit of trouble when it comes to the installation and that's because we are going to have to lower our exhaust down. Now the only suggestion I can give you is that you spray down all the connecting points and bolts with some penetrating oil so if has been a while, it'll come out a little bit easier.I'd like to give you a few measurements and that's going to help you whenever you are looking at accessories for your hitch, such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier.From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper to right about 5 inches. That measurement's going to come in handy whenever you are looking at folding accessories so make sure you have enough clearance and that it doesn't come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's right about 12 and 1/4 inches. Now, at that height, I would definitely recommend a cargo carrier or bike rack with a raised shank.

That way we get a little bit more ground clearance.So now that we have seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin installation, I want to point out that we are working with a police issue Charger so there are going to be a few things that are going to be a little bit different for the installation. We'll point those out. Now most Chargers are going to have that bezel that's going to go around the exhaust that's built into the fascia here. If yours has that, you are going to want to go into the wheel well and remove all the fasteners, along with the fasteners going along the bottom of the fascia so that we can remove it. However, in our case, since we have an opening at the bottom, we're not going to have to remove the fascia, just lower the exhaust.Now, in order to lower the exhaust, we come right by the muffler right by the exhaust tip, we're going to have a hanger with a bolt holding it in place towards the back.

And if we move towards the front of the vehicle and the back of the muffler, we're going to have another one. And it's going to be the same on both sides.We'll want to grab a 13 millimeter socket and we'll pull the bolt out that is holding the hanger into the bottom of the trunk pan. Then we can just swing the hanger out of the way, giving us a little bit more room to work with. And we're going to do that on both sides.Now, if you move further back towards the rear axle here, you'll notice that we are going to have this flange and this flange here is going to provide a little bit of a pivot so we can actually move the exhaust which we'll have it come down a little bit but on the other side, it's going to be solid and welded in place. So we'll come up and we'll find the next exhaust hanger here and it's going to have another 13 millimeter bolt going through that weld nut.

So you want to grab a wrench, a socket or a ratching wrench and we're going to loosen that up so that we can have our exhaust come down just a little bit more.And with that bold removed, we'll lift up and we're going to swing the hanger out of the way and that will give us a little bit more wiggle room to pull on the muffler so we get a little bit more room towards the back.Now, if you need it to come down some more, we can remove the hanger that's going to be on the other side as well so the whole unit will come down. Now, our exhaust is only going to come down so far cause we are going to have this cross member here supporting it.Now, the muffler on the driver's side does have that pivot point at that flange. It can come towards the center and right now the fascia is going to be kind of holding it in place but if we pull it towards the center, it will allow it to come down more. You just want to make sure you have some kind of support strap or a jack stand under the muffler so it doesn't come down too far.Now, if we come to the bottom of the frame, on each side, we are going to have these two large holes. Now there's going to be two smaller circular ones in between. These two small holes are going to be our mounting locations. Now on the driver's side, we are going to have a weld nut and the back one is just going to be an open hole. To make sure that the weld nut is nice and clean, we're going to take one of our bolts and we're going to run it in by hand. You want to make sure you can easily thread it in place. There is no dirt, debris, or rust in there that will cause any cross threading or any other problems.Now for the other mounting location towards the front of our car, we are going to take a pole wire, it's going to have a coiled end on it. We'll feed it into the frame, going through the mounting hole and we're going to come out the large hole in between. And we're going to take one of our square hole spacer blocks, we'll slide it over the coiled end and we'll take one of our carriage bolts and we're going to thread it on to the end of the wire. Then we can push our block into the frame and we'll follow it up by pushing the bolt in and we'll pull on our pull wire until the bolt comes down through the frame. And you want to leave the pull wire attached for now and then we're going to go ahead and repeat that for the other side except we're not going to have a weld nut so we'll do that for both holes on the other side of the frame.Now, with an extra set of hands, we're going to get our hitch put into position. You're going to have to kind of sneak around the exhaust on the passenger side and lift it up on the driver's side. And then we're going to feed our pull wires through the corresponding holes in our hitch. We'll lift it up making sure no bolts drop through and we can take one of our bolts and a conical tube washer. You want to make sure that the teeth face up towards the hitch and we'll thread our bolts into the weld nut and secure it on the driver's side. Now you want to make sure you get at least one fastener in on each side so the hitch will support itself and we don't have to worry about it falling down.On the passenger side, again, we'll make sure our bolts go through, we'll remove the pull wire and this time, we're going to use that same conical tube washer, going over the stud but we're going to be securing it with a nut. This is a little bit of a tight fit with the muffler here but you should be able to reach in at least get the nut started. And with one fastener on each side supporting it, we'll get the rest of our hardware in place.And we're going to come back and we're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. We are going to make sure and repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.So with our hitch torqued down, we're going to go ahead and reinstall all of our exhaust hangers. These back ones, just kind of lift up and it'll sit in that channel there and we can reinstall the bolts and tighten them down.And that will finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class II Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 36548 on our 2018 Dodge Charger.


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment


Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video by:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.







^
About Us
photos and videos
1,056,204

Original Photos & Videos

Produced to make sure you know what you are getting and you get exactly what you need.

installations
35,570

Installations Completed

To make sure products work and fit the way they are supposed to.

etrailer call center
2,476,511

Phone Calls & Emails Answered

1,125,924 phone calls and 1,350,587 emails to help find the right solution.

etrailer training
400+

Average Hours of Product Training

We get to know our products firsthand so experts can better help you.

etrailer service
71

Years of Quality Customer Service

Assisting our neighbors and customers, face to face at the counter.

etrailer experts
193,357

Pages of Expert Information

Created to make sure you have all the answers to your questions, from real experts.