Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Dodge Challenger

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Dodge Challenger


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Dodge Challenger, we're gonna take a look at, and show you how to install, the Curt Custom Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver. Part number is: C13236.Here's what your hitch is gonna look like installed. So you can see, we've got our 2" x 2" receiver tube opening here in the middle, safety chain connection points here, and then you'll see the tube that's gonna run across the rear of the vehicle. That's, of course, gonna go up to our side plates, where it connects to the frame. This is a Class III hitch, so it's gonna be very versatile. Works out with a lot of different accessories; ball mounts, cargo carriers, bike racks.

Just about any type of accessory that they make to go on a hitch is probably gonna come in a Class III variety. It's got the flush-style reinforcement collar around the end of it here. It gives it a nice look. We've got a larger plate-style safety chain connection point here, with the big oval loops. Definitely adds a little bit of material here in the back, makes it a little bit more noticeable.As far as securing any of your items in the hitch are concerned, we've got a 5/8" diameter pin hole here.

You want to use a Class III rated accessory. But there's plenty of room there for a regular pin and clip, locking hitch pin, or even anti-rattle device. You'll also notice that the hitch is gonna be inside the outer edge of the bumper, so running into it or things like that, really won't be a concern. As far as weight ratings are concerned, the hitch offers a 350 pound tongue weight rating, so that's the maximum downward force you can put there at the receiver tube opening. And it gives you a gross trailer weight rating which is gonna be the total weight of your trailer and anything that you might load up on it of 3,500 pounds.

The hitch is not rated for use with weight distribution, so torsion bars or spring bars aren't a possibility. And if you're gonna haul a non-wheeled load so, your cargo carriers and your bike racks they do recommend the use of a stabilization strap for that; really, hauling anything other than a trailer.Now, a few measurements that'll be helpful for selecting your ball mounts, bike racks, or hitch cargo carrier, will be from the ground to the inside top edge of a receiver tube opening, we've got about 9-1/2". With that being said, it's a great idea to choose an accessory with a raise in the shank to help promote better ground clearance. Then, from the center of our hitch pin hole, to the outermost edge of our bumper, it's about 5".Now, as far as the installation process goes, you're gonna have a couple different ways of lowering the exhaust, depending on the engine combination that you have. You see, on each side we're gonna have a bolt with a 1/2" head that we want to remove there.

In our application, we've got a fully welded exhaust, so we're not gonna be able to remove that driver's side. Most of them are gonna have a slip-joint, or a 2-bolt joint, to where you can separate and remove just the driver's side. So keep that in mind. It can make your hitch installation a little bit easier. Another thing you need to check on is right up here, kind of by your rear differential. You want to check and see if your exhaust has these actuators for the valve inside. If it does, you've got a small wire and plug here, and you want to be sure to separate those before you lower the exhaust so you don't do any damage. If you've got one on this side, you'll have one on the other side, as well.All right, now with those separated, let's run a strap underneath the exhaust to give it some support. I'm just gonna go from one sway bar end link to the other. You don't have to connect to that, but be sure you're not connecting to any kind of wiring or something like that, of course. To start lowering the exhaust, we'll start here at the rear just above the exhaust outlet. You're gonna have a bolt on each side. You want to use a 1/2" socket, get that removed. Do that on both sides. Now, above each of our rubber hangers, just a little bit further forward, we're gonna have a bolt that we want to remove. And we'll want to be careful as we lower the exhaust. You can see the wire that comes from this actuator, that's held in a couple positions. Two of them being on the exhaust hanger bracket. So we just want to be sure as we lower it, we don't stretch that wire. If we do, we'll separate those holders. Now we can do that on the driver's side, as well. The metal part of the bracket there is resting on top of a hook on each side, so you want to lift up on the exhaust, and pull that off of that hook, and that'll allow it to come down.Our attachment points will be right over our mufflers here. See this large hole That's gonna be our access hole. For the driver's side, you can see the weld nut here in the rear. That's where we're gonna use our hex bolt. The forward spot would be one of the spots we're gonna put in our carriage bolt. Then on our passenger side, we're gonna use the same access hole. This time though, we're gonna use two carriage bolts. Now, for the rear weld nut location here on the driver's side, it's a good idea to clean this out with a little bit of spray lubricant and a nylon tube brush. This is part number: 814092, if you don't already have a brush. Just gonna clear those threads and make sure our bolt can go in there very nicely.Now, to get our hardware in place, we want to use one of our pull wires. We're gonna go right up in the hole we want our bolt to come out of, towards our access hole. Then you just want to kind of pull it out. Then we're gonna slide on one of our square-hole spacer blocks, and we'll also thread on one of the carriage bolts, like that. We want our spacer block to go up through the hole, then our bolt. You'll probably have to tilt it on a little bit of an angle to get it through, then we'll just pull that right down through that block. You can leave your pull wires attached if you want to. I think it's easier just to remove them now, but that's gonna be up to you. Then we're gonna do the same thing for both attachment points here on the passenger side.Now, with the help of an extra set of hands, we're gonna get our hitch lifted into position. You'll have to guide it up and over the exhaust. Then we can align our carriage bolts with the holes in our hitch plates. Gonna thread in our hex bolt here in the back. You want to use a conical tooth washer on it, and you want those teeth to face up towards your hitch. Get that threaded in really well, then you can let your hitch rest there while you get your flange nut on the front. Now, on the passenger side, we're gonna have two flange nuts rather than a bolt. Now you'll want to use a 19mm or 3/4" socket, and we'll snug down our hardware. Then we'll go through, and we want to get all of our fasteners torqued down to the specifications in our instructions.Now we're ready to start getting our exhaust back up into position. Just want to use our factory screw. Lift it up, and there's a small tab here that'll go into that elongated hole. You also want to plug your wire back into the keeper, and then back into our actuator. Then we can pull down our safety strap, and our hitch will be ready for use.And that'll complete our installation of the Curt Custom Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number: C13236, on our 2018 Dodge Challenger.

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D

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