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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Dodge Challenger

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Dodge Challenger


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Dodge Challenger, we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Custom-Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver. It's part number is 76145.Here's what your hitch is gonna look like installed on your Challenger. You'll see we've got our square cross bar here, and the 2" x 2" or Class III-style hitch is a very, very popular hitch. There's lots of accessories that'll fit in here, so whether you're gonna be doing some light duty towing, wanna haul a bike rack, cargo carrier . Just about any type of accessory that they make is probably gonna come in the Class III variety.You'll see appearance-wise they've got a rounded reinforcement collar here around the end; gives it a nice, clean look. That's gonna be tucked inside of our bumpers.

We're not gonna have to worry about running into it or bumping into it, anything like that. It's gonna use a rounded, steel stock-style safety chain connection point. Plenty of room, there, for any size chain you'd wanna connect.You'll notice there are two holes in the receiver tube. The larger hole that's located closer to the front of the vehicle is the one we're always gonna use to secure our items in place. That's gonna be five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and there should be plenty of room around there to use a standard hitch pin.

Maybe a locking hitch pin or even an anti-rattle device.Now, the second hole would only be used for one of those types of anti-rattle devices called the J-Pin Stabilization System. It just helps to keep movement and vibration to a minimum.As far as weight ratings are concerned, the hitch is gonna offer a 675-pound tongue weight rating. That's the maximum downward force we can put at our receiver tube opening. It offers us a 4,500-pound gross trailer weight rating. That would be the total weight of your trailer and anything you we're to load up on it.

Of course, you do wanna check the owner's manual on the Challenger to see what its tow rating is and not exceed that.Now, a few measurements that will be helpful for selecting your ball mounts, bike racks, or hitch cargo carrier would be from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening. We've got about nine and a quarter inches. With that being said, we'd definitely recommend the use of items with a raised shank to help promote better ground clearance. Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of our bumper, it's about six inches.Now, as far as the installation process goes, you're gonna have a couple different ways of lowering the exhaust, depending on the engine combination that you have. See on each side, we're gonna have a bolt with a half-inch head that we wanna remove there.In our application, we've got a fully-welded exhaust, so we're not gonna be able to remove that driver side.

Most of 'em are gonna have a slip joint or a two-bolt joint where you can separate and remove just the driver's side, so keep that in mind. It can make your hitch installation a little bit easier.Another thing you need to check on is right up here by your rear differential. You wanna check and see if your exhaust has these actuators for the valve inside. If it does, you've got a small wire and plug, here, and you wanna be sure to separate those before you lower the exhaust so you don't do any damage. See, if you've got one on this side, you'll have one on the other side as well.All right. Now with those separated, let's run a strap underneath the exhaust to give it some support. I'm just gonna go from one sway bar end length to the other. You don't have to connect to that, but be sure you're not connecting to any kind of wiring or something like that, of course.Now, to start lowering the exhaust, we'll start here at the rear, just above the exhaust outlet. You're gonna have a bolt on each side. You wanna use a half-inch socket to get that removed. Do that on both sides.Now above each of our rubber hangers, just a little bit further forward, we're gonna have a bolt that we wanna remove. We'll wanna be careful as we lower the exhaust; you can see the wire that comes from this actuator that's held in a couple positions - two of 'em being on the exhaust hanger bracket. So we just wanna be sure that as we lower it, we don't stretch that wire. If we do, we'll separate those holders. Now we can do that on the driver's side as well.The metal part of the bracket, there, is resting on top of a hook on each side, so you wanna lift up on the exhaust and pull that off of that hook. That'll allow it to come down.Our attachment points will be right over our mufflers here. See this large hole That's gonna be our access hole. For the driver's side, you can see the weld nut here in the rear; that's where we're gonna use our hex bolt. The forward spot would be one of the spots we're gonna put in our carriage bolt. Then on our passenger's side, we're gonna use the same access hole. This time, though, we're gonna use two carriage bolts. We'll show you how to get those in place now.You're gonna take your pull wire and you'll place it through the hole you want your bolt to come out of, and we'll guide that back and bring it down through our access hole. We'll place on one of our square hole spacer blocks, thread on one of our carriage bolts. Get our spacer block up in, then the bolt, and we just need to draw that down through, just like that. To ease your installation, you might wanna leave your pull wires attached. I typically remove mine. That's gonna be up to you. Now we'll repeat that same process for the two holes, here, on the passenger's side.Now, for your weld nut, depending on the condition of the vehicle, you may have to clean that out. If you do, you'll wanna use a little bit of spray lubricant, then just a nylon tube brush. Just really clean the threads out well. This is part number 814092. If you don't have a tube brush, pick one up there. Just get those cleaned out, and that should allow our bolt to start very easily.Now we're gonna lift our hitch into position. We're gonna guide it up over the exhaust. If you have a removable-style exhaust, then you just wanna start the passenger's side and lift the driver's side straight up.Once that's in position, we're gonna guide our hitch side plates up over our carriage bolts. On this side, we're gonna start our hex bolt in the back. You can see the conical toothed washer. You want the teeth of that washer to face up towards your hitch. Once we have that started really well, we'll let it rest there.Now, on our carriage bolt, we'll place another conical toothed washer and we'll wanna thread on one of our hex nuts. On the passenger's side, you're gonna do this for both bolts. Now we can use a 19 millimeter or three-quarter-inch socket, and we're gonna snug all of our hardware down.Now it's time to go through and we wanna torque all of our fasteners down to the specifications listed in our instruction.We'll start getting our exhaust put back in position. We also wanna be sure you put your inaudible 00:07:38 back in and plug in your plug. You should hear a little click and then be able to pull on it without it separating. With everything secured back in place, you just wanna pull down your safety strap, there, and your hitch will be ready for use.That'll complete our installation of the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Custom-Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76145, on our 2018 Dodge Challenger.

Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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