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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon


Today on our 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon, we're going to take a lot at, and also show you how to install, the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver. Part number is 75673. This is what our hitch is going to look like installed on the Subaru. This square cross-tube is going to come over; it meets here at the receiver tube opening. This is 2" x 2". It's a Class III hitch, so it's going to work out really well for a lot of accessories, just about any accessory that they make that would be hitch-mounted they probably have in a Class III design. It's got a reinforcement collar around the end here.

It's a rounded look. It makes it look nice. Then we've got our safety chain connection points that are going to come up here on each side. Really large, open hole. There's a little bit of a plate here on the front that your chains would have to large enough to go around. It's going to accommodate most of them out there on the market. This is going to have two holes in the side of the receiver tube.

The one that's located closer to the front of the vehicle, it's larger, it's 5/8" in diameter. That's the one we'll use to secure all of our items with. We want to use Class III accessories. Whichever one you choose, you should have plenty of room to use. The one located a little bit closer to the rear, that's for use with the J-pin stablization system only. When it comes to weight ratings, our hitch gives us a 600-pound tongue weight capacity.

That's the maximum downward force that we can put here at our receiver tube opening. It gives us a 4,000-pound gross trailer weight rating. That's the total weight of our trailer and anything that we we're to add on top of it. We'll want to check the owner's manual on the Subaru. We need to see what it's rated for.

We'll just go off of whichever of those numbers are the lowest. A couple of measurements that are helpful when selecting ball mounts, bike racks, or hitch cargo carriers will be from the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening. We've got about 15". Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of our bumper, it's about 5". The first thing we need to do is get our exhaust lowered down and out of the way. This is a single outlet exhaust. We're just going to have three hangers. We've got one that's located right here at the rear corner and to the inside of the car. Then right catty-corner, there's going to be one right up here. Then if we'll follow the pipe forward a little bit, there's one right in front of this for your differential. Before we start pulling those, what I like to do is just put a strap underneath the exhaust here. That's going to offer us some support, so as we remove those hangers, this will support it. Then we can gently lower it down as much as we want. The next thing we're going to do is start pulling those hangers down. I like to use some spray lubricant on them. This is just going to help them slide off a little bit easier. Then a large screwdriver or pry bar is really what you're going to need. We'll just slide those off. Do that to our other two locations. If you have a dual exhaust, you're just going to repeat the same process, but it will be over on the passenger side. Get a little slack there. Then we can move that exhaust over a little bit. It's going to give us the room we need to work. We've got four bolts, we've gone one, two, three, and four, that we're going to need to remove. Now we can set these aside for reinstallation later. Now we're going to pull the plugs out of the bottom of frame rail. That's going to expose one of the holes here that we're going to enlarge, and then the one here in the rear. It's going to be one of our attachment points once we get our bolt fish wire down through. To get our hardware in place, we're going to be creating an access hole here. It's going to be 1-1/8" in diameter. I'm going to start with a small drill bit to create a pilot hole, 1/8", whatever you've got. Once we've got this drilled through, we'll then switch over to our larger bit. Once our bolts will clear through there without any problems, then we're ready to go do the same thing over on the driver's side. We're going take on our of fish wires. We want to put it in our rear attachment point there. We want it to come out the access hole that we created. We're going to use one of our smaller spacer blocks to slide that up on. Then we're going to thread it on one of 7/16" carriage bolts. Now we'll feed our spacer block up into the hole, follow that with our carriage bolt, and pull it down in place. Then we'll do that for the forward attachment point as well. In some applications, this hole is going to be a little bit smaller, so keep that in mind. It is where you removed that forward rubber plug. Here we're going to be using the larger spacer block like that. Now we'll head over to the driver's side and repeat the same process there. Now with our forward attachment points here, what we need to do is tape on one of the flat washers provided. I like to tape it up to the frame, and then raise my hitch up into position. That will sandwich it in there, and we get our hardware in place. It's a good idea before raising our hitch into position just to use some rust-proof paint there. We'll just touch up that bare metal so we don't have any corrosion issues down the road. Now we'll get our hitch raised up into position. We're going to guide it over the bolts that we've had installed. Once it's in position, we'll place on one of our conical-tooth washers. We want the teeth of that washer to face up towards the hitch. Then we'll thread on one of hex nuts. Once we've got one started on each side, that should hold our hitch into position while we got our other ones started. Now we'll snug down our hardware. Then we'll need to torque it down to the appropriate specifications, which will be listed in our instructions. Now we're going to grab out heat shield. This would be the forward area. We want to trim off this little edge here that's in front of that forward attachment point towards the inside of the car. We can just follow ridges down, go on the high side of that one, and just get rid of that area there. Now we'll raise it back up into position here. We want to line up our holes and thread our bolts back in. Now you'll notice that this one has been previously modified for a different hitch installation. We'll only be using three bolts to get it back into place. There would be a fourth, and it would be right here if you we're using it. Now we'll get our exhaust raised back up into position. It's good idea to use a little bit of spray lubricant on them here, just like we did when we removed them, to put them back on. It just makes it easier. We'll pull down our safety strap there. Then our hitch will be ready for use. That's going to complete our installation of the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number is 75673, on our 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon.

Info for this part was:

Video by:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Andrew L
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video by:
Alan C
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y

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