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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Ford F-150


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Ford F-150, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76136.Here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. It's going to sit right below the bumper, but really all we're going to see sticking out is that receiver tube. It's going to be pretty close to flush with our back bumper.It's a class III hitch, which means it's going to give us that 2 in by 2 inch receiver tube opening. It has a reinforced collar, not only giving it that added strength, but also just an overall nice finished look to it.Since it's a class III, it's going to have a way variety of options available for accessories you can mount. We're going to be using the forward hole here to mount any of our accessories. It's going to accept a standard 5/8 pin and clip.

They're not included in the kit, but you can pick one up in our website using part number PC3.The secondary hole towards the back of the receiver tube here, that's going to be a smaller hole. It's going to be exclusively used for the J-Pin stabilization device, which is going to be great if you're accessory doesn't have a built in anti-rattle.The safety chain connection points are going to be a loop style that's welded to the bottom of the receiver tube. As you can see, we're going have plenty of room to get most sized hooks on or off.Over just to the left hand side, towards the driver's side of our truck, we're going to have this bracket that Draw-Tite welded to the cross tube. It's going to be for any kind of electrical accessory or socket that we decide to mount. When we hook up to our trailer, it will be right there ready for us.Our hitch is going to feature a 900 lbs tongue weight, along with a 6,000 lbs gross trailer weight rate.

It is designed to work with weight distribution systems as well, and that's going to bump the tongue weight up to 1,000 lbs and the gross trailer weight rating up to 10,000 lbs. I always mention that you should always double check your F-150's owners' manual to make sure you don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.I'd like to give you a few measurements, and that's going to help you when deciding for accessories for your new hitch such as a ball mount, bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper, it's going to be right about 3 inches. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, that's going to be right about 20 inches.Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin your installation, you're going to want to pull down your spare tire.

If we move over to the passenger side, right behind the bumper around the inside of the frame rail, we're going to have a ground wire we're going to need to remove.To remove the ground wire, you're going to want to grab a 10 mm socket and we can pull that bolt out. For now we're just going to put this ground wire out of the way, because we will be reinstalling it later. Right above that grounding mounting point, you're going to notice it's kind of a recessed area in there.We're going to take our U shaped spacer block, and we're going to grab some masking tape, we're going to tape it in there so that it is towards the back. You don't want to cover up the hole or the mounting hole. Tape it into place, then we can cut out the area so that we can have our hole here, as well as down here.You want to make sure you can still get your hardware through and that you can thread the bolts into the grounding point later on.

We're going to have that on both sides, this little recessed area. We can take another one of our U shaped blocks and tape it in place on the other side as well.We can grab one of our pull wires, we're going to take the coiled end and go in right by that U shaped spacer block. We're going to go out to the back of the frame, there's going to be a hole right at the very back of the frame. You're going to want to reach in and grab that pull wire.The end of our pull wire where the coiled end is, we're going to take one of our square spacer blocks, then we're going to take our 5/8 bolt and we're going to thread it into place. You're going to want to feed the spacer block back through that hole at the end of the frame, followed by the bolt, and we're going to tug on that pull wire until we can get the bolt through, coming out right where that U shaped spacer is.For now we're going to leave our pull wire attached, and just gently push it back in so that we can get the hitch in place. If we move forward on the frame rail, we're going to have these two holes and then a large hole towards the front. We're going to take another one of our pull wires, we're going to feed it into the hole, we're going to come back towards the large hole, grab our pull wire. We're going to do that same process of taking the square spacer block, going over the coil there, and then taking one of our 5/8 carriage bolts and threading it into place.We're going to feed it back into the frame, making sure it engages, and then just gently tucking it back into the frame. On this forward mounting location, we're going to take one of our round hole spacer blocks, we're going to feed it through the end of our wire. We should be able to just leave it hanging right there, because we're going to want to sandwich that in between the hitch and the frame.With all of our hardware in place on this side, we're going to go and repeat that on the other side as well. With an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our hitch into place. You're going to want to take your pull wires, you're going to go through the oval holes in your hitch, going from the outside going in.That's going to help us guide our hitch into place. Once we have our hitch up, we're going to pull the bolts out of the frame, which should support it and help us hang it. Once you have the bolts coming through, we're going to go ahead and remove the pull wire.We're going to take one of our conical teeth washers, you're going to make sure that those teeth are facing the hitch, and slide it over our bolt. We're going to take a 5/8 nut and secure our hitch. We'll repeat that for all the remaining spots. We're going to come back with a 15/16 socket and tighten up my hardware. We'll repeat that for the other side.With that same 15/16 socket, I'm going to come back with a torque wrench and I'm going to torque all my hardware down. We're going to find that specification in our instructions. We're going to repeat that for all of our remaining hardware. Now for our ground wire, we're going to be replacing the factory bolt with one that's a little bit larger, a little bit longer.We're going to take our M8 bolt that's in our kit and follow it up with a lock washer, and then a flat washer. We're going to thread it into the eyelet on our ground wire. Now you can either go in from the side to where this tab's just going to stick out. You can bend the tab or whatever you find necessary to do, we're just going to leave it sticking out.We can thread our new bolt into the factory spot for our ground wire. Since it is a little bit, slightly bigger, instead of a 10 mm socket we're going to grab a 13 mm socket and tighten it up.With our hitch secure and our ground wire back in place, all we have left to do now is put our spare tire back up and hook up to our trailer.That will finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76136 on our 2017 Ford F-150.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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