Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chrysler Pacifica

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica


Speaker 1: Today, on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica, we're going to be taking a look at, and showing you how to install the Curt Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, Part Number C13383.This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. Now, you can see the cross tube. However, it does have a round tube design. It's nice and tucked under the vehicle, so it fits with the contour. This is pretty well hidden. So it's going to be a Class 3.

It's going to be two inch by two inch. Going to have a reinforced collar, give you a little extra stability on your receiver tube. Hitch pin hole's going to be five-eights inch in diameter. Safety chain ring's going to have plate style. You'll see it's got plenty of room for different size safety chain hooks.Now this hitch is going to have a 400 pound max tongue weight, which is a downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube.

It's going to be 4,000 pound max trailer weight, which is the trailer plus the load included. Now, you can use weight distribution with this hitch. Tongue weight's going to go up to 500 pounds. Trailer weight's going to go up to 5,000 pounds. However, I do recommend checking your owner's manual to make sure your vehicle can withstand that amount of weight.

And you're going to want to pick the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch.Now, let me give you a few measurements to help you in deciding on any hitch mount accessories you may need, such as a bike rack, ball mount, or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost farther bumper will be about three and a half inches. From the ground to the top innermost part of the receiver tube, will be about 13 inches.Now, let's show you how to get this installed. First thing we need to do to start our installation, is we need to remove this under-panel. We're going to be using an eight-millimeter socket, and you're going to have one, two, three, four, five, six screws that we're going to need to remove.

Next, we're going to use a ten-millimeter socket. And you're going to have two screws right back here in the back that are connecting these two panels. Using the same ten-millimeter socket, we're going to have one, two, three, four, five, six, seven plastic nuts. Next, we're going to take a flathead screwdriver, and you just put it up inside this plastic flat nut here. Sometimes, they'll all unscrew. If they don't, if you put a little bit of pressure on it, they'll pull down.Then, we're going to add two eight-millimeter screws, right here on the inside of the wheel well. Then we can pull our panel out, and we'll set it aside. It is going to have to be trimmed. And we'll set it aside for now. Next thing we're going to do is remove our exhaust. You're going to have an isolator here, and you're going to have one right here in the center. We're going to spray each one down with some lubricant just to help it come out a little bit easier. And then we'll take a pry-bar, make sure you be careful with he panel. We want to pry it off the bottom. Like that. And do the same thing with this one.Next, we're going to use a ten-millimeter socket. You're going to have two plastic nuts that are holding your heat shield on. One's going to be right here. One's going to be right back here. Get this out of the way. And we're going to have to trim this also.So now we're going to cut our heat shield. Per instructions, we're going to go 13 down and five in. We go from this edge, 13 down. I'm going to use a paint marker. A black magic marker will work too. We'll be taking off all this. I'm going to take some aviation shears, they're ten cents, to cut it.Next, we'll test fit it to make sure we have enough cut out so that we can get our hitch into place. Now we can reinstall our heat shield. We're not going to be using the plastic nut up there, because we cut that section off. We're going to be using the one towards the front of the vehicle, right over here.And here, on our driver's side, what we're going to do, we're going to take our pull wire. We're going to be using this hole and this hole. We're going to start with this hole. I'm going to put just a slight bend in the end of it. We're going to feed the spring end of of the pull wire up through the hole, and we're going to come out here. I'm going to take a spacer block, feed it through the hole. And you're going to take carriage bolt, thread it onto the end of the pull wire, push it up through the hole, back it out like that.For this back one, we're going to be doing what's called a reverse pull. First, we're going to put on our spacer block. Then we're going to thread in our bolt. Then we're going to feed the bolt first. And we're going to file this with the spacer block. You're going to do the same thing on the passenger side, with the exception: you're going to be using this hole also. So you're going to have three of these on the passenger side.Next, you'll see a little bolt here, or stud, with a nut on it. We're going to need to remove the nut. So we use a ten-millimamaeter socket to do that. And you're only going to have that on the driver's side.Now, with an extra set of hands, we'll bring the hitch in position. We're going to go over the exhaust on the driver's side. You want to make sure you feed your pull wires for the appropriate holes. Then we'll add on the flange nut. And we'll go ahead and add one on the other side that'll hold your hitch into place, 'til we get the remaining hardware in. Little tech tip: you are able to rest your hitch on your exhaust before you put it into place. Poll our wire off, and then we'll take one of our flange nuts, get it threaded on.Now that we've got one of our flange nuts on both sides holding our hitch in place, we can go ahead and install the rest of our hardware. Now, we'll take a three-quarter inch socket and tighten all of our hardware down. Now, put these back two on the passenger side, or two that are most forward toward the front of the vehicle. Probably a good idea to use a swivel to get it flush. Once you have them all tight, then we ca torque them to the specifications in the instructions. Then you're going to repeat that process for all remaining hardware.Now we can reinstall our exhaust. This time, we're going to start with the one in the center, and then do the one in the back with the same process. Right now, with a little bit of lubricant, it'll help it slide on a little bit easier. Next, we'll cut our underbody panel, per our instructions. Says to go from the center, from this hole, out six inches. I'm going to use just a black paint marker, because it kind of matches the panel. And then from that mark, we're going to come in ten inches. And then from that mark, we're going to come out this way. Then we'll take the aviation shears, and we can cut that section out.Now we can reinstall our underbody panel. Now, as you can see, we're still a little bit off, so we're going to go back and modify this just a little bit more, and give us a little bit more room. And we'll just keep repeating that process until we get it to fit in right. Once you have your underbody panel trimmed the way you need it, then you just reinstall it, in reverse order for the way you took it out.That'll do it for the look at an installation on the Curt Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, Part Number C13383, on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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