Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chrysler Pacifica

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica


Today on our 2017 Chrysler Pacifica, we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the Draw-Tite max frame custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver. It offers the 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening, it's part number is 76046. Here's what our hitch is going to look like installed. As you can see something I like about this hitch, our cross tube stays pretty hidden up behind the fascia. That's different than what we've seen from some of the other hitches. Whereas that's going to come over here to our receiver tube opening, this is 2 inch by 2 inches. Reinforcement collar around in there looks nice and neat.

Got our safety chain connection points that come out here. We've got oval shaped openings that kind of run along in line with the vehicle. Then it should be plenty of room there for you to connect whatever style chain you might want to. See in this hitch there are 2 holes in the receiver tube itself. The one closest to the front of the vehicle is the one that we're going to use to secure all of our items with. That's five eighths of an inch in diameter and you'll see there's plenty of room there even if you wanted to use a locking hitch pin or anti rattle device.

Now one of those anti rattle devices available is called J Pin stabilization system. That's the only time we use that hole closest to the rear. You'll want to ensure anything you do use in you five eighths hole is rated for class 3 use. Now a class 3 hitch is an extremely versatile hitch. It's going to work out for cargo carriers, for bike racks, hauling trailers, whatever you might want to use it for there should be an application available in class 3. Now the hitch offers a tongue weight rating of 675 pounds, that would be the maximum downward force that we would put here at the receiver tube opening.

It's going to offer a 4,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. That would be the total weight of your trailer and anything you we're to load up on it. It is rated for use for weight distribution. The tongue weight's going to stay the same at 675 pounds. The gross trailer weight however it goes up to 5,000 pounds.

You will want to consult the owners manual on the Pacifica, figure out what it's tow rating is and use whichever numbers are the lowest. You'll see the Draw-Tite also has a bracket that's been welded onto it already for attachment of wiring. They have 3 pre-drilled holes so you can use a couple different brackets we've got here whether you're using a 7 poles or a 4 pole and get that connected there without having to purchase additional brackets to go around the hitch. Now a few measurements that'll be helpful in selecting you ball mount rack or hitch cargo carrier will be from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of our bummer, it's about 4 and a half inches. Then from the ground to the inside top edge of a receiver tube opening, we've got about 12 and a half. That being the case we do recommend choosing accessories that have a rise in the shank just to promote better ground clearance at the rear of whatever accessory you have loaded up. Now to begin our installation we need to get this exhaust lowered down and out of the way a little bit. We've got three hangers that we'll use to do that. It's going one located right here inside the tail pipe area. It's a good idea to spray these down with a little bit of spray lubricant there. Usually helps those slide off better and we bring the tail pipe forward here. It's going to be one in this flat spot. We may or may not need to remove the one located right over here. Now before we do drop those, we'll want to put a strap underneath it just to give that exhaust some support, like that. Then we've got to pry bar here, you could also use a large screw driver. Just want to get those kind of pushed off this end there. Then we'll just put a little bit of slack in the strap there. That'll allow that to come down where we can get some tools in here and work. Next thing we're going to do is get our heat shield removed so we can trim it and put it back into position. See we've got the 4 plastic nuts. The white one's going to be above the exhaust, just made to handle a little higher temperature. We've got one, two, three, and four connection points. Then you'll just pull down. Now in the instructions it's going to tell us measure down 13 inches. It's going to put us about right above this hole and then measure in 5 and cut it. But that's a really tough cut to make, might risk cutting your finger. What we're going to do is cut straight across at 13 inches and we're not losing any protection with that. Now the texture of the heat shield itself, there's a little dimples there and those create a pretty straight line so we'll just go right across those. We'll come up just above that connection point there. Now you can use aviation sheers to cut this. You can use a little cut off wheel, whatever you've got handy. Now we can set this portion aside and we'll get this portion reinstalled. Now it's time to get our hardware put in position. We've got 3 attachment points on each side. We're going to be using the oblong hole that's here closest to the rear. You got the rectangular shaped hole there then the square hole there. Now for the rear holes we're going to use the smaller of the square hole spacers. For the one closest to the front we'll be using the longer one. Now to get our hardware into position we're going to be using the pull wire. We'll just place that in the hole, direct it forward to that furthest forward attachment point that's going to be our access hole. Just going to slide on one of the spacers. Thread on one of the carriage bolts. We'll slide those in separately. Pull them back just like that. Now for the forward attachment point we want to use the reverse method so we'll put our block on then thread on our carriage bolt. We'll put the bolt in first. Follow that up with the block then bring it right back down through. Now we're going to do the same thing for the passenger side. Right now we've got our pull wires attached here to our bolts still. You can leave those on, put them through the appropriate holes in the hitch and then use these to guide it up into place. I find it's easier to do it without them. Simply because then we don't have to try to hold the hitch up and remove the pull wire. But it's up to you. If you're going to do it this way you definitely don't want to push the bolts back up into the frame. Now with the help with an extra set of hands. We'll want to get the passenger side started up over the exhaust first. Then we'll raise the drivers side up into position. When our carriages bolts to come down through. The first thing we'll do is place on a conical tooth washer and want to make sure the teeth of that face up towards our hitch. Then we can thread one the hex nuts. Be sure we get one started with about 3 or 4 good turns. We can let it rest there while we get the other side going. Now we'll go through and snug down our hardware. Now with everything snugged down it's time to go through and torque each of our bolts down to the appropriate specifications. Those are listed in the instructions. Now we use a little bit more spray lubricant and we'll get our exhaust lifted back up into position and slide these isolators back in place. Then we can take down the strap and our hitch will be ready for use. With our exhaust back in position that's going to complete our installation of the Draw-Tite max frame custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver. Part number 76046 on our 2017 Chrysler Pacfica.


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Video Edited:
Jacob T
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Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y

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