Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Cruze - Draw-Tite

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chevrolet Cruze


Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Cruze, we're going to be taking a look at the Draw-Tite Class 1 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 24943. Here's what our hitch looks like once it's fully installed. What you're really going to like about it, is the fact that all you're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out, and the cross tube is going to be hidden nicely behind the bumper. It is a class 1 hitch, so it's going to give us an inch and a quarter, by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening.Now as far as the connection point, it's going to use a standard half inch pin and clip. They're not included, but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC2. As far as the safety chain connections, it's going to be a loop style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube.

As we can see, I'm not going to have any trouble getting most size hooks on or off, and even with a locking device, I really don't think it's going to be getting in the way, because we've got plenty of room here.As far as weight capacity, our hitch is going to have a 200 pound tongue weight, and that's going to be the amount or force pushing down right here. It's going to have a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, and that's the amount that it can pull. Now I do always want to recommend that you always double check your owner's manual to make sure your vehicle can handle that amount of weight. I'd like to give you a few measurements that'll help you when deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a bike rack or even a cargo carrier.From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the outer most edge of the bumper, it's going to be right about 5 inches. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's maybe right about 12 inches.

Now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to have a few fasteners that we're going to have to remove from the bottom of our bumper here. We're going to have 2 in the center, and then 1 on each side. I'm going to be using a 7 millimeter socket to remove them. If we come to the back inside of our wheel well, we're going to have 3 fasteners that we're going to have to remove. I'm going to be using a T15 torch bit to remove them.

Once we have these 3 removed, we're going to grab our wheel well liner and peel it back. Right here at the top, we're going to have another fastener we're going to have to remove. You're going to want to use a 7 millimeter socket to pull that bolt out. With all the fasteners removed on this side, we're going to repeat that for the other side of the vehicle.At this point, we can open up our trunk and we can begin to pull our fascia off. You're going to want to start at the corner and slowly start peeling it away, unlocking all the clips behind it.

Now it's usually a good idea to have an extra set of hands so that you can work on one side, while they work on the other, working your way towards the center. Now you are going to have a couple electrical connectors at the back of the bumper here. We're going to have a red tab. We're going to pull that red tab away, and then push in on that black button there, and then we can unplug the connector. Now we're going to put our fascia aside, so it doesn't get damaged.On each side of our vehicle, we're going to have 3 fasteners holding our bumper beam in place, 2 on top and 1 on the bottom. To remove those, I'm going to be using a 15 millimeter socket. Now it's going to be a good idea to go ahead and grab you about a 6 to 8 inch extension, so that you can reach the fasteners, because it may be a little bit hard to reach without that extension. There is an access hole in the middle of our bumper beam here, so you just get that extension right through. Now I do want to mention I'm going to leave 1 fastener on each side just real loose, just so I don't have to worry about the bumper beam falling off. With all of them loose, I'm going to take those final 2 off, and we can take the bumper beam off.We can grab our hitch now. We're going to slide it into place. Now it is going to hold itself up. You just want to be careful, make sure it doesn't fall down because we're going to grab our bumper beam and sandwich it on the car. Now we can take our factory bolts. I'm going to put 1 in place just so it doesn't fall off, hand tight, and then we can get the rest of our hardware back in place. Once we have all our hardware in place, we're going to come back and snug it up with that same 15 millimeter socket. I'm going to go ahead and grab a torque wrench at this point, and we're going to torque all of our fasteners down to the specified amount in the instructions. You're going to want to make sure you do that for all the remaining fasteners as well.We're going to need to find the center point of the under side of our fascia here. If I go across with my tape measure, it's going to be right about here. There's going to be a little notch right here, and per the instructions, they want us to measure out 3 and a half inches wide by 4 and a half inches long. We're going to have to cut that out, so there's a relief, so that our hitch can fit. I'm going to be using some electrical tape to mark out where my cut needs to go, protecting the paint, and also making it a little bit easier for me. If I need to do 3 and a half inches, if I go from the center an inch and 3 quarters to each side. Now in the instructions, it tells us they want us to cut 3 and a half by 4 and a half, so we'll go ahead and make a mark here and put some electrical tape right here, so now that this section here is going to be cut out.Now with this area marked out, you can either use a utility knife, a pair of tin snips, or whatever you really have available. It's just plastic. I just want to recommend that you be extra careful, because you don't want to scratch up or damage the rest of your fascia. I'm just going to be using a utility knife, coming back and making a couple scores each time, and cutting through the plastic. We can come back and clean any of the edges up if we need to as well.Now with an extra set of hands, we can get our fascia put back in place. You just want to make sure you plug in that electrical connector, and when you do, you want to make sure it locks into place, and push that red tab back in to lock it in. You want to line up the fascia, making sure that it goes around your hitch. You may have to guide it in place. You just want to start working your way around, locking all the clips down. With our fascia back in place, we can go ahead and start replacing all the hardware we took out in the beginning. Pull the wheel liner back into place. Put the rest of the fasteners in place as well. Just want to make sure you get them all back in, including the other side. With our wheel liner in the correct position, we can go ahead and put that final one in the back corner, back in.That'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class 1 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 24943 on our 2017 Chevrolet Cruze.

Info for this part was:

Video by:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Robert C

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