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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Audi SQ5 - Daw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Audi SQ5


Speaker 2: Today in this 2017 Audi SQ5, we will be having a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 111 Trailer Hitch receiver, part number 75940.Here's what our hitch looks like installed. First thing you'll notice about this hitch is that it's designed to work inside the factory cutout in the bumper, and it does that nicely with no trimming or modification required, so it does give us a nice clean look. Many of our customers on our website has said they've purchased this hitch for their Q5 or their SQ5 in order to use it with bike racks and cargo carriers, and they've all said it has worked great for them, with plenty of clearance around the fascia, and it allows them bring all their gear with them when they go on the road.One of the questions that we do get on our website is, if the vehicle is equipped with backup sensors like this one, is that with the bike rack installed on the hitch, will the backup sensors be activated And the answer is yes, but that's only when you have the vehicle in reverse, and that's because the bike rack will be right in front of the sensor and it's going to set up the proximity warning. But when you're driving down the road, going straight in drive, you don't have to worry, there'll be no beeps or warnings or any alert messages on the dash. Everything will be just like normal.On the side of our receiver, you'll find two pin holes, the larger one closest to the front, that's your industry standard 5/8" diameter hitch pin hole for use with a pin and clip to secure your hitch mounted accessories. You can pick up a pin and clip separately on our website as part number PC3.

The smaller hole here is for a J-pin stabilization device. What that does is help take away the annoying shake, play and rattle out of what's inserted into your receiver. We have one of those available separately as well.One thing that I really like about this hitch are our safety chain loops here. They're a plate style design that face down below the receiver, and they're in front of our hitch pin. If we have a large diameter safety chain like this one, we can easily clip on.

We don't have to worry about any interference from our pin and clip, and we can still easily remove. The end of our receiver, you'll find this nice collar that's welded on. This gives us a really nice finished look on the back of our Audi, and it also helps improve the strength of the receiver opening.As far as weight capacities go, this hitch features a 750 lb max tongue weight rating, which is the amount forcing down and a 5,000 lb max gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull. You will want to consult the owner's manual of your Audi and not exceed what the vehicle is rated for. Go by whichever number is less.With our fascia off, this is what our hitch looks like installed.

Now while this may look like a very involved install, it's really not that bad. The hitch simply slides into the channel in our frame rail, where our factory bumper beam was and is secured with the factory bumper beam bolts. This is a lot easier than some of the other options out there for the SQ5. A lot of those, you have to do a bunch of drilling, trimming, and cutting of the heat shield, lowering the exhaust. This is just a direct replacement for the factory bumper beam.Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or a cargo carrier.

You're looking at about 14-1/4" from the ground to the top of the 2" receiver opening, and about 4" from the center of the hitch pin hole to the rear most part of the back bumper.Now that we've gone over some features, we'Ll show you how to get it installed. To begin our install, we're going to open our rear hatch. Now we'll remove our floor coverings. Now we can remove our threshold or scuff plate, however you want to call it. We'll do that just by lifting up on it. Once we pulled it up, we found that there was a sensor attached to our mechanism here that we need to unplug. There's a tab on each side. There's one just like this on the other side. We'll squeeze together and pull to separate. Here are the tabs that you have to squeeze to pull the connector apart.With it unclipped, we can now set this aside. Now on both sides of our vehicle, behind where our scuff plate was, we have this plastic covered hole right here. Deep inside there, there is a 10mm nut on the stud, which helps hold our fascia in place. We need to remove these, so you'll need a 10mm socket and an extension. Here's the nut, once we remove it.Now at each corner of our hatch, we'll have a cargo hook just like this one, so four in total. Lift up on it, and we'll find two t30 torque screws that hold it in place. We need to remove these. Then you can lift up on the cargo hook and set it aside.Now we can remove our side rails. We'll just lift up on them and pull them forward and out of the way. Now we'll remove our driver's side interior panel and take out our spare tire air compressor. Now the foam tray that our compressor sat in. There's these two nuts. We're going to spin these off. As we spin them, it'll start to work its way up, and we can pull up and they'll pop off. We'll come up, then we pull up and remove our panel.Behind where our styrofoam was that held in place our compressor, we have this long stud with a 10mm nut on it. This helps hold the fascia in place on the corner. We'll remove this nut.Now on our passenger side, we'll grab our interior panel here and pull back. Now on our 12V outlet, we'll press down on the tab at the top and pull the disconnect with the socket, and we can set our panel aside.Now we need to remove our fuse box here by removing the 10mm nut. We'll now lift up on the fuse box, pull it out of the way and just swing it to the side. With the fuse box out of the way, we now have a similar stud with a 10mm nut on it, to remove. Here's the nut once we have it off.In each one of our wheel wells, we'll find four t25 torque screws, just like this one here, that help hold our fascia to our fender liner. So we'll go ahead and remove all four of these.Now we'll remove the two screws that attach our fascia to our trunk pan, and we'll also remove the two screws that hold our hitch cover in place with the factory hitch, because this panel will not go back on with the hitch in place. So let's go ahead and remove it.Now with an extra set of hands, we can remove our fascia. We'll grab it right at the corner where it meets our fender and pull back. We'll have to pull at the corner on our hatch opening to help separate the studs from the vehicle.Now we have this large wiring harness that's clipped to our fascia on the passenger side of the vehicle. We'll start unclipping it by pulling up on it and unplugging all the sensors that it goes to. These have tabs on them that you can push in with a flathead screwdriver and pull back to separate. Here's the tab for one of them.This sensor here for our rear park assist is very difficult to unplug as is, so we'll undo the torque screws that hold it in place. That unplugged, we can set it aside. We repeated the same process for all the sensors and connectors on the driver's side of the vehicle and unclipped the harness. Now we can set the harness aside from the fascia and let it hang behind the vehicle and set our fascia aside.Now we have these 16mm bolts here and here on each side that hold our bumper beam in place. We'll go ahead and remove these. With our bolts removed that hold our bumper beam in place, we can now grab it and pull it out of the frame pocket of our vehicle.Before we slide our hitch into position, we're going to show you the holes in the frame rail that you need to line up with the holes in the hitch on each side. This hole here and the hole just in front of it are where the battery bolts go through the hitch and secure to a well nut on the bottom of the frame.These holes here that are oblong, those are the ones that are going to line up with the holes in the vehicle, so we'll just take the hitch and slide it in position. Now we'll take our side rail bracket, place it over the holes, take our factory bolts that we removed and reinstall them. Make sure we get them started a few turns by hand before we try to tighten them with any tools. Now we'll torque our bolts to the amount specified in the instructions.All right, now with an extra set of hands, we'll get out fascia back in proper position and reconnect all of our wiring. Now we'll guide our fascia around our hitch. All right, with it our hitch now, we can reinstall the fascia. Now we'll reinstall all of our fasteners that secure fascia and all the other items we had to remove in order to get the fascia off.That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 111 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 75940 on this 2017 Audi SQ5.

Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H

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