Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Mazda CX-5

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Mazda CX-5


Today on our 2016 Mazda CX-5 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13315. Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. The cross tier's going to be hidden underneath, and it is a class III, so it's going to give us that two-inch by two-inch opening. It has a nice, reinforced collar, giving it that nice clean finished look. Now our safety chain loops are going to be a rolled steel stock style welded to the bottom of our receiver tube, and as you can see we're not going to have any issue getting most size hooks on or off. Now, our hitch is going to use a standard 5/8 pin and clip. It's not included, but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC3.

Our hitch is going to feature a 600 pound tongue weight and a 4,000 pound gross trailer weight. Now, I do want to mention you always want to double check with your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure it can handle pulling that. Now I'd like to give you a few measurements to help you in deciding for new accessories for your hitch, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is four inches. Now from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is 13 inches. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how we got it installed.

To begin our installation we're going to need to come to each side of our frame rail in the back, and that's going to be right underneath our muffler, right behind our muffler, and right above the tailpipe right here on each side. Now if we look on the side of our frame rails here we're going to see some tape or stickers that are covering up some holes. Now, we're going to need to remove the stickers that are covering up our holes because we're going to be using that to mount our hitch. Now, I'm just going to take a flat-head screwdriver and scrape away the sticker, and you can use pretty much anything you have available, but we're just going to tear away any of the sticker and making sure we can get access to the hole, and we're going to repeat that for all the holes. There's going to be two on each side. With all the stickers removed we're going to need to lower our exhaust.

Now, I'm going to be using a strap to support it. That way when I lower it down it doesn't completely fall down. I'm just going to find somewhere to hook this hook on my strap. That way it's going to prevent my exhaust from coming all the way down. Now we're going to have two rubber hangers that are going to be directly behind our tailpipe on each side. I'm using an exhaust hanger remover tool to remove these, and it's just going to push that rubber isolator off of the stem of our exhaust hanger here, and if you don't have one of these tools, you can also use a pry bar and find something to pry against the rubber isolator and push it off.

Now, we're going to have two more on the other side, one right here at the bumper and then one right behind our tailpipe. Now you want to make sure that you have enough clearance to get the hitch in between your muffler and your bumper. On each side of our frame rail, we're going to have a wire harness that's going to be attached using this plastic clip. Now, we're going to need to remove the plastic clip and make sure the wire harness is out of the way before we put the hitch up. I'm just going to take a flat-head screwdriver and pry on the clip a little bit, and it should pop out. We're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. Now if we bring our attention to our hitch itself, on the inside of our side brackets here, we're going to need to install our flat washers that come in our kit. To make things a little bit easier to get . Once we go to get everything in place, I'm actually just going to tape my flat washer to my hitch. Then we don't have to worry about it falling off. I'm just going to line it up, take a little bit of tape, and it'll hold it in place. Now we're going to do that for all three remaining holes on our hitch. Now, we're going to need to get our hardware in place. I do want to mention this furthest rear hole on the side of our frame here on the driver's side, sometimes it is a weld nut inside of there, and sometimes it's just an open hole. In our application we don't have a weld nut, so we're going to need a fish wire, our bolts in, to get them in place. Now, I'm going to take my fish wire here with the coiled end, and I'm going to feed it through the hole in the side of my frame, and then I'm going to have it come down through the large hole right here. Now, once I have that through, I'm going to take my spacer block, and I'm going to slide it over the coiled end of my wire. Then I'm going to take my half-inch carriage bolt. I'm going to thread it on to the end of my wire, and now we're going to push our hardware into the frame and we're going to pull it out so it's coming out the side of our frame here, and make sure you leave the fish wire attached, because that's going to help you when we go to put the hitch in so the bolt doesn't fall through. Now, we're going to repeat that same process on the passenger side. Now with an extra set of hands we're going to get our hitch into place. You want to go over your exhaust, and you want to be mindful of those wires that we pulled off the side of our frame as well. Now, we're going to take the fish wire and we're going to go through the furthest rear hole on our hitch, and you may actually need to push the bolt back into the frame to get the hitch into place. Once we have our bolt through, the hitch will support itself from the bolt coming from our frame rail. We need to go under and remove our pole wire. Then we're going to come back with a flange nut, and we're going to secure it to our hitch right here. We can now take our M12 bolt and our conical tooth washer and you're going to want to make sure that the teeth are facing the hitch, and we can go and install our hardware towards the front, and we're just going to thread it in. Now, we're going to repeat that process for the other side as well. Now I'm going to come back and I'm going to snug up all my hardware, and I'm going to be using a 19-millimeter socket. We'll repeat that for all the remaining hardware. Now again using a 3/4-inch socket, I'm going to come back and I'm going to torque down all my hardware to the specified amount in the instructions. We're going to repeat that for all our remaining hardware. Now all we have left is to reinstall our hangers back on our exhaust. Now, if your hangers are a little stiff and it's hard to get on, you can take a little bit of penetrating oil or any kind of spray lube. Even soap and water will help, and if you just spray a little bit on the post that the hangers sit on, it should slide on a little bit easier. That'll finish up our look at the Curt Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13315, on our 2016 Mazda CX-5.


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