Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Land Rover Discovery Sport - Curt

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2016 Land Rover Discovery Sport


Today on our 2016 Land Rover Discovery Sport, we'll be having a look at and installing the Curt Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13247. What I really like about this hitch compared to others on the market is that even though our frame of the hitch is tucked up nice and high against the vehicle, we still have plenty of clearance around our receiver, making it an ideal candidate for bike racks. On the end of our receiver here we have a nice welded on collar which helps give it a more finished look, making this an ideal hitch to use on a high end vehicle, such as the Discovery. On the side of our receiver you'll find our industry standard 5/8 of an inch hitch pin hole to secure any of our hitch mounted accessories that we may have. Welded on the bottom of the frame of our hitch and our receiver is this plate, it's an angular design for securing our safety chains onto if we're using this hitch to tow a trailer. They're fairly decent sized openings, so we shouldn't have much problems using most safety chains out there. It features a 750 pound max gross tongue weight rating and a 5,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating. You'll want to consult with your owner's manual of your Discovery and not exceed the limits of the vehicle's capable towing.

If you're using it for a non-trailer application, such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier, Curt does require the use of a stabilization strap to help support the load. Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need such as a ball mount, bike rack or cargo carrier, you're looking at about 15 inches from the ground to the top of the 2 inch receiver opening and about 3 inches from the center of the pin hole to the rear most part of the back bumper. Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we'll start by opening our rear hatch. We'll gain access to where our spare tire tools are. Below where our jack was we'll find our mechanism to lower the spare tire. We'll get this out of our way.

Now depending on whether your vehicle is equipped with third row seating or not, you'll either have 2, 10 millimeter screws or T30 torque screws that hold this center panel in place. One in each corner by the mufflers. We'll start by removing these. Now we can grab this panel, pull it towards us and down. Now again, depending on if you have third row seating or not, you'll either have 4 bolts or 6 bolts to hold the rear bumper on here. We have one here, one down here and it's the same on the other side.

These are 10 millimeter bolts. All right, now we need to lower our exhaust. Now depending on if you have a second row or third row seating, your exhaust could look entirely different than this. We have a rubber hanger at the rear of each muffler and one at the front. Let's spray some lubricant on they help slide off easier, do the same on the other side.

Now we'll just use the pry bar and pry off the hanger. We'll do the same on the other side. Okay, now on each wheel well, at the bottom edge of where our bumper meets the fender liner here we find 2 screws. The top one's a Phillips and the bottom one is a T25 torque screw. Go ahead and remove these. Now everything that we do on one side of the vehicle, we want to make sure we repeat on the other. Okay now our wheel arch molding here, we're going to grab it from the backside here, pull towards us. Then we'll find access to a 10 millimeter screw. There's one other screw that we need to remove right here that was hidden by our panel. Make sure we get the screw on the other side too. Okay, now we're inside our vehicle again, looking at our driver side interior panel. Take a flathead screwdriver here, turn this knob until it unlocks and then we'll open it. Set this aside. Now on our passenger side it's slightly different. We don't have a panel to remove, we have a vent panel. We'll grab this, pull it set it aside. Okay now inside each panel we'll find a spring that has a screw head on it. We'll loosen the screw on up to relieve the tension on the spring. Take it out. Here's our other one on the driver side, next to our fuse box. Take that one out too. Okay now we'll grab out taillight assemblies and wiggle them on out. Find a connector on them, push in on the tab, pull apart to separate. We'll set these aside so they don't get damaged. All right now behind where our taillight was on each side we have a Phillips screw to remove. Now we also have a plastic push pin fastener. I'm going to use a plastic trim panel tool here to come behind it and remove it. Okay now, with an extra set of hands, we'll grab the corner of our fascia here, we'll pull it towards us. Now we'll just pull our fascia back. We'll find an electrical connector on our passenger side. We'll push in on the tab at the bottom, pull to separate and we'll set aside our fascia so it doesn't get damaged. Okay now on our driver side of where our fascia was, we have another electrical connector here. Push in on the tab, separate the wiring. Okay now our connector here is clipped in two places here on our frame. We'll need to separate this. I'll just use a trim panel tool. You want to make sure you're really careful because these wires are really small and they could easily be damaged. Now we can remove our rear bumper beam. It's held in place with 6, 15 millimeter bolts, 3 on each side. Lift up and pull it back. Set it aside. Now on each side, below our hatch area by the corner, we have a large opening here. We'll be using what's called a reverse fish wire technique, using a fish wire, a spacer block and our carriage bolt. Stick the bolt inside the hole, place the space block in, pull the bolt back on down and remove the pull wire. On the back side of our bumper beam, the tab that held our bumper in place, even after we removed our bolts, we need to bend this tab back so it's not sticking out passed our flat area here. To do that, take a pair of pliers, grab it, twist it on back. Do the same on both side. With our hitch sitting upright on the ground, we can now take our bumper beam and slide it into the slot. Now, with an extra set of hands, we'll raise our hitch and our bumper assembly up as one unit, and secure it using the original hardware that held the bumper in place. Now we'll take our big spacer block and insert it over the bolt that we installed earlier and we'll make sure we do the same on the other side. Now we'll use the 7/8 socket and tighten down the nuts that we added with our fish wired in hardware. We'll tighten down our 15 millimeter bolts that we removed earlier. Now we'll torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions. I went ahead and marked out, according to the instructions, the area by our exhaust cut out that we're going to need to trim out in order for our fascia to fit over our hitch. It's the same on both sides. This side here is our passenger side. Now we have a couple different ways we can cut this. We can use a sharp utility knife, a very sharp pair of scissors, if you have one, or rotary tool. I'm going to opt for a rotary tool myself because I feel I can get the best cut with it. Okay now that we've gone through the top exterior layer of our fascia, we can use this as a guide to trim out the rest underneath. Still going to be using our rotary tool on this, just a different bit. Now that we've gone through the second layer, there's a third layer of a heat shield. These are T25 torque screws. We'll take these two out here, bend this up real quick and we'll make a notch right here and over, and cut it out. We use a pair of tin snips for that. Okay with that trimmed out, place this back down and bend the other heat shield back down to it's original position. Then we can remove inaudible 00:11:40 piece. Reinstall our screw and tighten it back down. We'll repeat the same process on the other side. Now we'll make sure we plug our sensor back in over here on our driver's side and re-secure the clips that held the wire in place. All right now, before we put our fascia back on, we're going to raise our exhaust back up and reinstall it because it will be difficult with the fascia on and the hitch on at the same. Now we'll reinstall our fascia, making sure we plug back in our electrical connector on the passenger side. Bumper cover's back in place. We'll go ahead and reinstall all of our hardware in the same order we took it off. Be sure we plug back in our taillights before we reinstall them as well. That completes our look at and installation of the Curt Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C13247, on our 2016 Land Rover Discovery Sport.


Questions and Comments about this Video

M. H.

Is this hitch still available? Trying to fit one to my 2018, but I don’t know what the difference is between Dynamic Pack and the non-DP—on the 5+2 seating. I emailed previously and the rep said you don’t sell one for the ‘18 with 7 seats and DP. Thanks.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

The Curt Hitch # C13396 will fit your 2018 Discovery Sport as long as you don't have the 7 seats. If you have the 5 seat version then it will work. Unfortunately the C13247 is no longer available.

Reply from M. H.

@JonG is the issue the spare or some other issues? I know you wouldn’t condone modification, but with professional attention could the 13396 be… adjusted to fit.

Etrailer Expert
Reply from Jon G.

@M.H. It has to do with frame access actually. Check out the answer page I linked to this comment. It goes into a little more detail and offers a roof rack alternative that you may be interested in.