Menu Icon
fall hauling headquarters

Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Volvo XC60 - Draw-Tite

content loading



Customers compare 75671 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Volvo XC60


Speaker 1: Today on our 2015 Volvo Sc60, we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install the draw tight max frame custom fit class three trailer hitch receiver.Offering the 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening, it's part number is 75671.Here is what your hitch is gonna look like installed. As you can see, it gives us a pretty nice clean appearance.The majority of the hitch is gonna be up behind your face, just so you're not left with a huge cross tube going side to side, kind of changing the aesthetics of the vehicle.This is a class 3 hitch, so we have the 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube opening. That makes it an extremely versatile hitch. There's tons of different accessories to go in hitches. You can see our 5/8ths diameter pin hole. That's what we'll use to secure all our items with.

It's the one closer to the front of the vehicle.The one behind it is for use of the J-Pin stabilization system, which is an anti rattle device available from drawtight.Safety chain connection points are gonna be rounded steel stock on both sides. Plenty of room there for whatever size chain you want to connect. An as an added bonus, we do have a wiring tab that's been welded on to the hitch here. It has three pre drilled holes. That's gonna allow us to attach a wiring bracket, whether we want to put a four, maybe a seven fold here on the rear of the vehicle.As far as weight ratings go, we have a 400 pound tongue weight rating.

So that's the maximum downward force we can put here in our receiver tube opening.We have a 4,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. That's the total weight of your trailer and anything you might load up on it. The hitch is rated for for use with weight distribution. If you're gonna use weight distribution, the tongue weight is gonna go up to 450. The gross trailer weight is going to go up to 4500 pounds, but definitely check your owners manual, see what your Volvo is rated for, and don't exceed.

That.A few measurements that you'll find helpful when it comes time to select your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier would be from the ground to the inside top edge of a receiver tube opening.We've got about 13 and a quarter inches. Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of our bumper, it's about 6 and a half. To begin the installation of your hitch, we need to get the exhaust lowered down a little bit. We got a rubber exhaust inaudible 00:02:05 here, and then pretty much in the same spot over on the other side.What we'll do is just a little bit of spray lubricant, and then you can use a long screw driver, you can use a pry bar. But you want to just pry on that until you get it to come off of that.

Tab is stuck on.Just like that. We'll move to the other side and do the same thing. Now if you have these chrome beauty rings that go around the outside, we may have to remove those and we may not. We'll just see once we get there. But up on the side, there's a tab that sticks off, and there's a torque spit.You basically right above here, and then same here on this side. And right above there. Hopefully we don't have to remove them. If we do, we'll show you how.If we'll follow our rubber isolator up, you're gonna see a bolt that goes right up into the floor of the vehicle here. We're gonna use a 13 millimeter socket, we'll move that, and that'll allow us to take down that exhaust tank. This is just gonna be temporary. We're gonna place it back up after we trim our heat shield. We want to do that on both sides, as well.Just in front of where that hanger was, you'll see a little raised edge here. So we're gonna trim our heat shield right along that edge.And then we want to continue this line here, kind of all the way back. We had to switch marker color there, but you can see we're gonna come all the way back here, and cut across this way. I'm gonna start over on this edge, cut towards the middle. To do this, we're just gonna use 10 snips here.Be careful, these edges are gonna be real sharp. Don't get cut.Just above our exhaust here on the inside of the frame rail, here's where we took that exhaust hanger out. Right here, there's a piece of foam tape cover a hole. We'll pull that off, that's gonna be our rear most mounting point right there.Now let's take a look at our attachment points here. We're gonna be using this hole here. It's gonna be the first hole in front of where we remove the exhaust inaudible 00:04:32 bowl. Then if we come forward, we've got another hole here. We're gonna skip that hole and go right out to the outside.This is our access hole where we'll get our hardware in place. We're always going to be using this as our forward attachment point.And then the foam tape that we removed on the inside of the frame well here, that's gonna be our third detachment point.If we get our hardware in place, we're gonna be using a full wire. We're gonna start with this hole as our center point. A little bend in that pull wire. We're just gonna guide it on over. We want it to come out of your access hole.We're gonna thread on our spacer block, using one of the longer spacer block. And then also our carriage bolt into this location. We want to use one of the shorter ones. We're gonna have four shorter carriage bolts. Then you're gonna have two longer carriage bolts, so be sure to use one of the shorter ones here.Now we can slide our spacer block up and in the frame rail there.Just draw it on over. And you just need to pull your bolt down through. Now, at this point we want to remove the fish wire.It looks like we will have to take down these shrubs just to get our exhaust down enough to slide our hitch over. Again, we've got two screws that we need to remove, they're in the plates that come off the side of the exhaust shroud here.We use a T-25 torques bit to remove them. With those two screws out, we just need to slide it forward, and there's these two tabs on the top. Let's get a better look at that. You can see the two tabs here. Those slide in right up here, here and here.You can see the tab here that had the screw through it, and also the tab here that has the screw through it. Now with the help of an extra set of hands, we'll lift our hitch up and over the exhaust of both sides. You'll want to bring it forward, we'll cheat it one way.Push it over the other way. And then we want to line up the hole in the back part of this bracket with the bolt we put in place. Over that hook, I'ma put a tooth washer and a nut. You want to make sure that the teeth of that washer is facing up towards your hitch.We'll use that to support it when we get the rest of our hardware into place. Now we can get our big spacer blocks put in place. These are gonna go over our forward attachment point and our hitch. And we'll fish wire our bolt down in through there. We'll get these installed on both sides. Now we'll feed our full wire in, just like we did before. Bring it back to our access hole.For those forward attachment points, we want to use our smaller spacer blocks, and our longer bolts.Once we get that through, we're also gonna add a conical tooth washer and a nut.We'll go to the passenger's side and do the same thing there.We'll do the same thing for our side attachment point here. It's a little harder to get the full wire down and out, but it's possible. And in this spot, we use a larger spacer block. And one of our shorter carriage bolts.Now we'll take the full wire off, we just need to be careful not to let that bolt fall back in the frame. And on that we'll add our conical tooth washer, and the hex nut.Now we're gonna go through. We want to snug down all of our hardware. Once we got it all snug, we use an 11/16th in socket. We're also gonna torque it down to the specifications in our instructions.Now on each side, we can replace our exhaust finger brackets. Bring them up over from the backside of the hitch. We use the original hardware, put that back in, get it tightened out. And the beauty ring is put back in here. Now, with those back in place, we'll put a little more lubricant on those exhaust hangers, and we can get our exhaust back up.With our exhaust back in place, that's gonna complete our installation of the drawtight max frame custom fit class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number 75671 on our 2015 Volvo SC60.


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment


Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.







^
About Us
photos and videos
1,056,204

Original Photos & Videos

Produced to make sure you know what you are getting and you get exactly what you need.

installations
35,570

Installations Completed

To make sure products work and fit the way they are supposed to.

etrailer call center
2,476,511

Phone Calls & Emails Answered

1,125,924 phone calls and 1,350,587 emails to help find the right solution.

etrailer training
400+

Average Hours of Product Training

We get to know our products firsthand so experts can better help you.

etrailer service
71

Years of Quality Customer Service

Assisting our neighbors and customers, face to face at the counter.

etrailer experts
193,357

Pages of Expert Information

Created to make sure you have all the answers to your questions, from real experts.