Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Volvo V60

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Volvo V60

Rob: Rob here at, and today you're going to be taking a look at the Curt Class Three Custom-Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2015 Volvo V60.Now you can see that our hitch is going to have a really nice appearance to it, and that's because the cross tube is going to be completely hidden behind the bumper, and all we're going to see is that receiver tube sticking out. And since it is a Class Three, it's going to give us that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, so we're going to have a really wide variety of options when it comes to accessories. But regardless of how we're going to be using it, all of our accessories are going to mount using the hitch pin hole here on the side. Now our hitch is going to accept a standard 5/8 pin and clip. Now these are not included with the kit, but you can pick them up here at, along with some locking devices to make sure your accessories are secure.Now if you are going to be towing a trailer, you obviously need a spot to hook your safety chains up, and we're going to have a loop style connection point at the bottom of our receiver tube. And even with most size hooks, we're going to have plenty of room to get those on or off.As far as the weight ratings go, our hitch is going to have a 350 pound tongue weight, that's going to be the maximum downward force at the end of the receiver tube here.

That's going to be great for some of those larger bike racks, carry even up to four or five bikes, or if you want to put a cargo carrier back here. But keep in mind whatever accessory you put in, you'll want to double check the capacity of the accessory, as well as the hitch, and go with the lowest rating. Now our hitch is also going to have a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating. That's how much it can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. But you do want to double check the Volvo's owner's manual, because you don't want to exceed any of the manufacturer's recommended weights.I'd like to give you a few measurements, and these are going to help you out when you're looking for accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, a bike rack, or even a cargo carrier.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper, it's going to be right about five inches. Now for one that's going to mean that our hitches sitting underneath our bumper a little bit, so we're not going to have to worry about hitting our leg, which is nice thing. But that measurement we want to keep in mind when we're looking at folding accessories, to make sure we have enough room here, and they're not going to come in contact with the rear bumper.And from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be right about 11 and a half inches. Now that measurement's going to help you out when you're looking for a ball mount so you can match it up to your trailer, and get the appropriate rise or drop. But at that height also, we can see that it's pretty close to the ground here, so I would definitely recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank, that way we get a little bit more ground clearance out of it.But now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's get installed together.

To begin our installation, we want to come to the very back of our Volvo, and if we come underneath the rear bumper here, we'll find four screws that are in the center section. We're going to pull all those out, we'll grab a T25 Torx Bit, and we'll pull two out on each side.Now if we move into the rear wheel well. We're going to start at the very back behind our rear tire, if we look inside, we'll see that we're going to have several fasteners going along the edge here. We need to pull all of those out, it'll be a total of five of them. So again, we'll use that same T25 Torx Bit.Now when you're removing these, it is a good idea to use a hand ratchet rather than a power tool, because it is just going into plastic, and we don't want to strip those screws out.

Once you have all those removed from the inside of the wheel well, you're going to move to the other side of the car and we'll move those as well.Now we're going to move to the back of our Volvo and open up the hatch. Right at the bottom right by the sill, we'll have that rubber bumper that the hatch rests on. We're going to want to grab it with our hand and turn it counterclockwise about a half a turn, about a quarter turn. So you can turn it, and then we should be able to just grab it and pull it out. We're going to do the same thing on the other side as well.At this point we can get ready to remove our fascia. You want to grab yourself an extra set of hands, because our face is rather large and we don't want to drop it and cause any damage or any scratches. But we're going to start for our fender meets the fascia here, we'll go into the wheel well, and we're just going to peel that liner back just a bit so that we can get a hold of the actual fascia itself. You want to grab the edge of it, and start pulling away and it's going to release the clips. Once we get to about the taillight section, you may need to grab underneath and kind of start working it and pulling it back, so it'll let go. And then you just want to work your way towards the center until we get it loose, and you want to double check to see if there's any connectors that you need to disconnect before you get too far away.And we're going to have a connector over on the passenger side, so we'll make sure to disconnect that. On the very end here we're going to have this large gray plug, there will be a little tab on there and you want to press in on it, and you should be able to work it loose, pull the plug apart. Then we'll set our fascia aside where it won't get damaged.Now that our bumper beam is exposed, we're going to need to remove this as well, and on each side, because you're going to have two bolts on top holding it in place, and then one bolt on the bottom, right above our exhaust tip. We'll grab a 13 millimeter socket, and we'll pull all those bolts out. Now since our bumper beam is rather large, I do suggest leaving one bolt really loose, that way once we take the last one out, we don't have to worry about it falling on us. Then once all of them are loose, we can take that final one out, then removed the bumper beam, and set it aside for right now.I'd like to go over the combination of hardware that we're going to use to secure our hitch in place, because it's going to be a little bit easier for me to show you now rather than trying to hold everything together. We'll have a new M10 bolt in our kit, and we'll have conical tooth washers. The washer, you want to make sure that the teeth are facing away from the head of the bolt or towards the hitch.We're going to put our hitch up and sandwich it between the body of the vehicle and our crash bumper, and then we're going to go through all of it and using our new bolts, go into the weld nuts that are on the body. To make it easier to lift our hitch and bumper beam is one assembly, I going to lower it down onto the hitch, and get it pretty close lined up with the holes, and then I'm going to grab an extra set of hands and we'll lift it up all at once.And then we want to get our holes lined up in our bumper beam and in the hitch, and once we do, we'll take our hardware, we'll get it through our bumper beam, through the hitch, and you want to get at least one bolt hand-tight on each side. That way everything is going to hold itself up, and we won't have to worry about it falling off. Now that we know that our hitch is supported, we're going to use the same combination of hardware for all the remaining holes. I'm going to come back with a 17 millimeter socket, and I'm going to snug up all my hardware. Now make sure to come back with a torque wrench, and torque all the hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. And we're going to repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.Before we put our fascia back in place, we are going to have to do some trimmings so there's room for the hitch to come out. Now we want to find the very center point of our hitch, and the way I did that is I just took these two attachment points, measured in between, and cut that measurement in half. And then we'll follow the directions in the diagram that are in our instructions, and went ahead and marked all that out.Now when you go to cut it out, you can use a rotary tool, a pair of tin snips or whatever you have available. You just want to take your time and cut it out. And one good tip is when you go to cut this out, I suggest cutting it in a little bit smaller than you think you need to, because we can always go back and take more material away, but we can't replace it. We always come back, clean up the edges, and clear off that excess plastic.Now with an extra set of hands we can put our fascia back in place. You want to make sure that you put your electrical connector back in place, over on the passenger side. Make sure it's locked in and give it a quick tug, we can line up the fascia, put everything back in place. Once we know it goes around the hitch, you can just go and start pushing the fascia back in so those clips fasten. Now that we know everything's lined up and back in place, we can start replacing all of our fasteners.And once you have all your fasteners back in place, that'll finish up your installation and look at, the Curt Class Three Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2015 Volvo V60.

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