Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Subaru XV Crosstrek

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Subaru XV Crosstrek

Ryan: Hey, everybody. Ryan here at etrailer.com. Today, on our 2015 Subaru Crosstrek XV, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class III two-inch trailer hitch receiver.Now, in comparison to some of the other hitches available, this one is going to be a little more visible. However, there is an upside to that, and that's ease of use. It's going to make it really convenient how open everything is when we're using our accessories.So, it is going to utilize that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, and also going to have a reinforced collar for extra strength. It's going to have the standard 5/8 size pinhole.

Now, keep in mind, it does not come included with a pin and clip, but if you need one, you can find it here at etrailer.com.Now, the safety chain openings are plate style, and they are very big, and that way, it will allow us to use just about any size hook you might have. Now, there is going to be a smaller hole right in front of our pinhole and that's going to be used with a J-pin. Now, a J-pin is a stabilization device which will eliminate any rattle or shake here in our connection point.Another thing I really like is that our hitch is going to have a bracket welded to it. Now, this is going to be to mount trailer wiring, so if you plan on doing any towing, this is a great feature to have.Our hitch is going to have some pretty impressive weight capacities. As far as the maximum gross tongue weight rating goes, that's going to be 525 pounds on the amount of weight pushing down on our hitch.

So, that's enough capacity to use just about any size cargo carrier or bike rack that might be out there. As far as the maximum gross trailer weight rating goes, it's going to be 3,500 pounds. That's the amount of weight pulling on our hitch. It's the weight of your trailer plus anything you might have on it. Now, keep in mind, it is always a good idea to check with your car's owner's manual to make sure your car can pull that much weight.Now, our hitch is going to sit just about level with our bumper, and that's a really good thing, especially if you plan on use it for any folding accessories like a bike rack, because that's going to give us the clearance that we need to fold it upright.Now, I'm going to give you a couple of measurements.

You're going to use these to figure out which hitch mount and accessories to get. From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be about 13 inches. You're going to use that to figure out if you need to get a ball mount with either a drop or a rise. From the center of the hitch pinhole to the edge of our rear bumper, that's about two and a half inches. You're going to use that to figure out if any folding accessories you might have can be stored in the upright position without contacting the bumper.Now, many of our customers said they installed the hitch themselves, and they're very pleased with the results.

Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put the hitch on together now.To begin our installation, we're going to need to get underneath the back of our car, and we're going to be removing three rubber plugs on each side of our frame rail. In here is what these rubber plugs look like. Now, to get them out, you can just grab a flathead screwdriver, kind of just pry underneath them, and that'll pop them out. Now, keep in mind, whatever we do to one side, we're going to do the same on the other. Now, before we lower our exhaust, it's a good idea to use a support strap from side to side, and that'll help keep that exhaust up, and it'll allow us to adjust it as necessary.Now, we're going to have to remove four rubber exhaust hangers. Now to make it a little easier, I went ahead and sprayed these down with some lubricant, or you can even use soap and water. And we'll take a pry bar, we'll just push it off the metal portion of our hanger. We'll have two more over here on the passenger side. Use that same method to get them all. You have to go closer to the front. You're going to have one more right here.Now, we're going to place our hardware inside of the frame rail. Now, the way we're going to do that is called the fish fire technique. So, we'll take our fish wire with the coiled end. We're going to put this in through the smaller hole, and feed it towards the front of the car. And we're going to want to pull it down through this larger hole. Once we have it dropped down, what we're going to do is take one of the spacer blocks, put that over the end, and one of our carriage bolts, and thread that onto the fish wire. We're going to push that hardware up into the frame rail. Pull the other end of our fish wire, and that'll get it to drop through like that.That's gonna be very similar for this hole, which will be our other attachment point. That'll hold the hitch up in place, except this time, it's called the reverse fish wire technique. So what we're going to do is take the coiled end of our other fish wire spacer block, carriage bolt, and thread it on. Now, we're going to work that bolt up first from the block, and drop it down just like that.Now, before we put our hitch into place, this is a little trick that'll make it easier. Since this hitch requires these blocks to go in between the hitch and the frame rail, before we put our hitch up, I'm going to tape these to the hitch, so that way we don't have to worry about lining them up while we're holding and hitch above our head. Just line the holes up. We'll just use some packing tape, then tape it to the hitch. Now, these blocks are only going to be used for the holes at the back of the hitch here.Now, with an extra set of hands, we can raise our hitch into position, so over our exhaust, we'll pull our fish wires through the corresponding holes of the hitch. Once our hardware's through, we can remove that pull wire, and secure it. To secure it, we're going to be using a conical tooth washer. Make sure the teeth face up towards the hitch, and then we'll just be using a regular hex nut after that.That's a good idea to get at least one started on each side, that way the hitch will support itself while we work on the rest of the bolts. With all of our hardware in place and hand tight, we can now all snug it all down.Now, I'm going to use a torque wrench to torque all of our hardware down. You can find that torque specification in your instructions. With our hitch in place and fully secured, we can rehang our exhaust, pushing it back up, and sliding our hangers back on. And once we have all our hangers back in place and the exhaust is supported, we can remove our strap.And that'll do it for our look at and our installation of the Draw-Tite Class III two-inch trailer hitch receiver on our 2015 Subaru Crosstrek XV.

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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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