EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon


Speaker 1: Today on this 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the EcoHitch Hidden Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 306-X7266. Here's what our hitch looks like installed. You'll notice about this hitch, compared to other hitches on the market, the only part you'll see hanging down is the actual receiver itself, and there's no visible cross tube going underneath our fascia. This is something that many of our customers really enjoy about this hitch. Because we don't have that visible cross tube, this maintains a nice clean look on our Outback.This being a Class III hitch with its two-by-two receiver opening, this makes it a very capable hitch and gives you the most options available when it comes to using hitch-mounted accessories. Our hitch features a alloy construction made out of recycled materials and has a nice powder coat finish on it.

This will make it more rust resistant and corrosion resistant than a traditional steel hitch that has just a painted surface.This hitch is also really easy to use. On the side of it, we'll find our standard 5/8 of an inch diameter hitch pin hole to secure any of our hitch-mounted accessories and on the bottom you'll find our safety chain loops. These loops are a fairly decent size and you can even use really large safety chain hooks on them without any problem. Even with your pin in place to secure your ball mount you can still clip on a very large one such as this one here. At the end of the receiver, you'll find this nice collar that's welded on to help reinforce the strength and give us a finished look.This hitch features a 350 pound max tongue weight rating, which is the amount forcing down and a 3500 pound gross trailer weight rating which is the amount it's rated to pull.

You want to make sure you consult with the Owner's Manual of your Outback and not exceed what the vehicle's rated for.One other thing our customers have noticed, not only does this hitch have the concealed cross tube underneath, but it also has more ground clearance than other ones out there, making it easier to pull in and out of steep driveways or, if you encounter rough terrain if you're going camping with your Outback, you don't have to worry about dragging the hitch on the ground.Even though we have to take our fascia off in order to install this hitch, as you can see it simply just goes in between the vehicle and the bumper beam on the existing bumper beam studs. This makes for really easy install and also gives you a nice clean look in something that's very securely attached to the vehicle with no drilling required.Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch-mounted accessory, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier. You're looking at about 16 and three-quarters of an inch from the ground to the top of the two inch receiver opening, and about 2-1/2 inches from the center of the hitch pin hole through the most part of the back bumper.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. To begin our install, we'll start by opening our rear hatch. With our hatch open, we now have access to our taillight covers.

There's two plastic fasteners that we need to remove. In order to remove these, use a Phillips screwdriver to get out the center section. Once the center section's loose, you can pull the whole clip out. Now we can take our plastic panel here and we'll pull it away from the vehicle. May need to use a trim panel tool to help work it away from the taillight, and I'll pull away.With the cover removed, we now have two 10-millimeter screws to remove.

We'll now pull the taillight assembly away from the vehicle. We'll now unplug the taillight assembly with this connector here, by pressing down on this tab, pulling the connector off. And then we'll remove our two bulbs by twisting, pulling out, and we'll set the taillight assembly aside where it won't get damaged, and repeat the same process on the other side.In each corner of our bumper there's a plastic cover. There's a slot at the top. Let's stick a flathead screwdriver inside, it'll pop open. Behind that, we'll find a 10-millimeter screw to remove. Keep in mind everything we do on one side we'll be repeating on the other.In our wheel well, where our fascia meets our quarter panel, we have a plastic clip right here. I'm going to take a flathead screwdriver and push in on the center portion of it, and then the whole clip can be loosened and pulled out. Then where our mudflap meets the wheel liner we have another plastic clip. We'll use a flathead screwdriver to pop out the center section. Then, if you have a trim panel tool, you can pull it out a little bit further and go behind the whole clip and it'll come out.Underneath our vehicle we'll have seven plastic clips just like this one, here, here, here, here, here, here and here, that we need to remove. These clips all work the same. The center section will pop out followed by the whole clip. Now, if we pull down on our mudflap a little bit, we'll see another clip on each side where our fascia meets this underbody panel. We'll remove these on both sides.Now with an extra set of hands we can remove our fascia. We'll start by grabbing it at the corner and pulling it back away from the vehicle. Now, your vehicle may have rear parking sensors, you may have to disconnect some wiring harnesses. We don't have any to worry about in ours, so just keep that in mind as you pull it away.On our bumper beam we have a total of eight nuts. We'll have two on the bottom on each side and we'll have two on the top on each side. These are 14-millimeter nuts. For the one on the inside, on the top, you can go through the hole in the bumper beam. With all of nuts removed, we can now remove the bumper beam by pulling back, and we'll set it aside.The center tab here where our fascia was clipped in to, we're going to bend it up. Just take a pair of pliers, we can twist it up. This will make room for the center section of our hitch so it won't contact it. Now we can take our hitch and we'll hang it over the eight studs where our bumper beam was. We can now replace the bumper beam, sandwiching the hitch between it and the vehicle. We'll now take one of our new nuts, we'll thread it on a stud on each side to secure it into place, it won't fall. Now that we have all of our replacement nuts securing our hitch and our bumper beam into place, we'll ensure that the hitch is centered on the vehicle. The easiest way to do that is to line up the latch for your hatch through the center line of the hitch itself. With our hitch centered, we'll now tighten down all of our hardware. We'll now torque down all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions.We have our fascia set up in an area where we can work on it. We've marked out according to the instructions in this shaded area an area that we need to cut out in order for our fascia to fit around our hitch. You can cut this multiple different ways - a sharp utility knife, an air saw, or a rotary tool. I'm going to use a rotary tool myself. Now that we have our opening made, we'll take our provided trim piece and we'll go along the edges of it just by pushing it on. This will help give us a clean look. Once we have it all the way on we'll just push it securely into the corners and then we'll cut off our excess. I'll just use a pair of side cutters to do that.With our fascia trimmed, we can now reinstall it on our vehicle. With our fascia now back in place, we can reinstall all of our fasteners as well as our taillights. And that completes our look at and showing you how to install the EcoHitch Hidden Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 306-X7266 on this 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon.

Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
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Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H

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