Trailer Hitch Installation - 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe


Speaker 1: Today on our 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt Class Two Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C12113. So here's what our hitch is gonna look like. The cross tube is going to be visible and it's gonna sit right below our bumper.This is a Class Two Hitch, which means it's gonna give us that inch and a quarter, by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening. And it's really great for things like bike racks, or even cargo carriers. The way we're gonna attach all of our accessories is through the hitch pin hole here on the side.Now it is gonna accept a standard half inch pin and clip, and both of these are gonna be included in the kit, which is always a nice bonus. As far as the safety chain connection points go, it's gonna be a plate style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube here.

We're going to have too much trouble getting most size hooks on or off.And the slight off set from the hitch pin hole means more clearance getting those in, and not have to worry about any kind of locking device, or the hitch pin interfering. Our hitch is going to be rated at 350 pounds in tongue weight, and that's gonna be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube.It's also gonna have a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now one thing I do wanna mention that Curt, the manufacturer does recommend the use of a stabilization strap any time you're towing any non-trailer loads like a bike rack, or a cargo carrier, or anything that doesn't have tires on it.Now if you need one those straps, you can pick one up here at etrailer.com, using part number 18050. And with all of those numbers in mind, I always recommend that you double check your Santa Fe's owners' manual, and you never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.Like to give you a few measurements, and that's gonna help you when looking at accessories for your new hitch such as just a bike rack, or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is gonna be right about four and a half inches.That measurement's gonna come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories.

So make sure you have adequate clearance between the accessory and the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is gonna be just under 13 inches. And at that height, I would recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank to give us just that little bit of extra ground clearance.So now that you've seen what our hitch looks like, and gone over some features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, I went ahead and lowered our spare tire, this way we have a little bit more room to work with. Now on each side, we're gonna have a plastic underbody panel that we're gonna have to remove.And the easiest way to get these out is if you take a Philips head screwdriver, and you're just gonna loosely unthread those push pins.

Sometimes, if you kind of pull down on the panel while you're unthreading it will help, 'cause sometimes they get stuck. And we're gonna unthread those at the center section.And once it's unthreaded it enough, we'll pull the rest of the clip out. Those are gonna be all along the edge here, so we're gonna need to pull all of this out. With those removed, we're gonna go ahead and pull our panel towards the center section a little bit, and pull it down. We're gonna have a little plastic clip that is holding it in, so you may have to give it a good tug.We're gonna go ahead and remove the panel on the other side the same way.

We are gonna have to lower our exhaust down. But to make sure we don't cause any damage, I'm gonna take a strap, I'm gonna make sure that my exhaust is gonna be supported so it doesn't hang down too far.So you just find a solid point we can attach a strap to, and then we're gonna be removing the rubber hangers off the muffler at the back here. Just gonna take some spray lubricant and I'm gonna spray the hangers down. Gonna make it a little bit easier for them to slide off.Gonna be one towards the center, and then on the outside right by the rear wheel well, we'll have another one that's holding it in place. The main goal is just to get that rubber to slide off, so you could take a pry bar, or anything you have available. Just go on and find a spot that you can push that rubber off the post.Once the exhaust is loose, we can go ahead and loosen up the strap. And if we're still not having enough room to get everything in place, we can come back right behind the rear axle here, and we'll have another hanger that's gonna be directly behind it. So we'll go ahead and take some spray lubricant, and remove that one as well.Now we can slowly lower the exhaust 'til we have all the room that we need, which this should be plenty of room and a little bit of flex, if we need a little bit more. Now, on each side, we come to our frame. On the inside of it, our bumper core is gonna have an alignment pin that's going through the bumper.Now this is probably gonna interfere 'cause one of our mounting locations is gonna be right above it. So we're not gonna be able to get that bolt in, and the nut in place with this tab here. So, we have the option of either bending it out of the way, or cutting it off so it won't interfere.So, I'm gonna take a rotary tool, and I'm just gonna trim the pin off enough so that I have enough room to get everything in place. And we're gonna wanna do that for both sides. Now, on each side of the frame, we're gonna have two holes that are going through our frame rail on the side , as well as two weld nuts that are gonna be on the bottom of our frame.And on the bottom rail here, we're gonna take some spray lubricant and we're gonna spray it inside those weld nuts. And we're come back with a nylon brush and make sure that the threads are nice and clean. We don't wanna have any dirt, debris, or any kind of rust in there, which may get in the hardware and it's that much harder.Just wanna clean out each weld nut on both sides of the frame. Now that we have the holes cleaned out at the bottom of the frame, it's not a bad idea to take one of the M10 bolts in our kit, go ahead and make sure that you can run it in by hand easily, and that it's not gonna get bound up.So we'll check all the holes for our mounting point. So there'll be two on the bottom on each side. And while we're here, we'll go ahead and go over the combination of hardware that's gonna hold our hitch up. We'll have that short M10 bolt, and then a Conicle tooth washer 00:06:33.and when we put these on, we wanna make sure that the teeth are facing up towards the hitch. Now with an extra set of hands, we're gonna lift our hitch into position. And over on the driver's side, this tab is gonna go on the outside of the frame. But on the passenger's side, it's gonna go on the inside.Just to help hold our hitch up, we're gonna put one bolt in on each side 'til we get the rest of our hardware in place. Now, on the passenger's side of the frame, we're gonna take our long half inch carriage bolt, and coming from the outside of the frame, we're going to be going in.But since there's no hitch here, we're gonna take the included bracket, we're gonna pass our carriage bolts through, one on each side, and then we're gonna have them go through the side of the frame, and push them through until they come out the other side of our hitch.We're gonna make sure that those carriage bolts go all the way through that bracket on the outside, and it fully engages that square. Then we can take our half inch flange 00:07:40 nuts, and secure it down. Now, the driver's side is gonna install the same, except we don't have that bracket on the outside, because our hitch is gonna be on the outside.So we're just gonna put the bolt through the outside of our hitch, 'til it comes through the inside of our frame rail and secure it down with those flaner 00:08:04 nuts. Now we're gonna come back and we're gonna snug up our M10 bolts. We're gonna be using a 17 millimeter socket.For the half inch flange 00:08:18 nuts, we're gonna be using a three quarter inch socket. I'm gonna come back with a torque wrench, I'm gonna torque all my hardware down in the specified amount in the instructions. And we'll repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.With the hitch torqued down, we can raise our exhaust back into position. Just gonna wanna lift it up, and make sure that rubber slides all the way onto that post. We're gonna remove the strap, then we can put the underbody panels back in place. And with these, we're just gonna push that outer section. We don't need that screwdriver anymore, 'cause we're just gonna push it in, and it'll lock that push pin in place.And with our spare tire back in place, we're ready to hit the road. And that'll finish up your look at the Curt Class Two Custom Fit Receiver, part number C12113 on our 2015 Hyundai Santa Fe.

Info for this part was:

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