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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Ram ProMaster 2500

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on a 2014 Ram ProMaster 2500


Today on this 2014 Ram Promaster 2500. We're going to review and install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Class 3 2 Inch Receiver Hitch, part number 75882. This is what the hitch looks like when it's installed on our Promaster. First off you can see it sits just below the bumper cover, probably about an inch and a half at the most. This is going to be your 2 inch opening right here. It's going to have a rounded collar that goes all the way around it for reinforcement.

You'll notice these 2 hitch pin holes. This is a 5/8 hitch pin hole that's used for all your hitch accessories. Ball mount, bicycle rack or cargo carrier. In this smaller hole here is designed to used with J-Pin Stabilization Pin. That's designed for accessories that don't have their own anti-rattle device. All right.

Now we'll go ahead and look at this plate on the bottom here. It has 2 big holes that will work with a wide variety of safety chains. Now take a look at this bracket on the side of the hitch here. This is designed for electrical connections. The 2 wide holes are good for brackets that work with a 7-pole connector or a 6-pole connector.

The narrow ones will work with a typical 4-pole connector. The body of our hitch is a round tube style design. You can see this part here below the bumper, but then it goes back around the exhaust and then up into the frame. It has a design for a tongue weight of 750 pounds and a pull weight of 6,000 pounds. When you add a weight distribution assembly to it the tongue weight still stays the same at 750 pounds.

The pulling weight goes up to 7,500 pounds. Next we'll go ahead and give you some measurements that'll help you out in selecting some accessories such as a ball mount, bicycle rack or a cargo carrier. From the top of the receiver opening down to the ground will be about 16 inches. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outside edge of the bumper will be about 3 1/4 inches. Next we'll go ahead and show you how we installed the hitch on this Promaster. First step is to go ahead and remove our spare tire. We're just going to put this out of the way for now. We'll put it back up when we're done. Now open up the back doors so we can get ready to remove the bumper cover. Now to remove our bumper cover there will be 4 screws that we have to remove. There'll be on the top edge and there'll be 2 on the bottom. We'll be using a T30 torch bit. Now we'll go underneath the bumper and corner here at the bottom we'll remove this screw. There'll be one in each side to remove. Now we'll carefully pull our bumper cover back. It's got some electrical sensors on it. There's a quick disconnect for the sensors right here. We'll pull back on this latch right here and we'll pull it apart. I'm going to set this to the side for now. Now we'll go into the van and install some hardware so we can put our hitch into place. I'm going to take this handle nut. I'm just going to simply slip it into the channel right here. Let it sit just like that on the inside. Some vehicles may have some extra wiring or other components in the way. You can run the handle nut through this opening as well. Now before I put our hitch up it'll be easier to show the hardware we're going to work with. We're going to have a 1/2 inch diameter hex bolt and our conical tooth washer. You notice the teeth in the washer, they'll always face towards the hitch. This will run into the handle that we previously installed. Now go ahead and get an extra set of hands to help put the hitch up in position. We'll start off by taking the passenger's side of the hitch, putting it over the spring, pulling it back, then we'll take driver's side, push it forward up and over the spring, then we'll them back and we'll even up the hitch until we line up with the handle nuts that I installed earlier. We'll get a few threads in just to hold a hitch so we can still move it around as needed. With our hitch as loose as possible we'll go ahead and remove these caps right here. Looking at the very end of the frame here around this loop there is another plug, we'll go ahead and remove that one. This is our passenger's side, we'll do the same thing over on our driver's side. At this point we'll istall some more hardware at the end of a frame. We're going to use this long block here and its extra long 1/2 inch carriage bolt. They'll fit together on the inside of the frame just like this. Now, there are 2 different sides of these blocks, they're identical on the outside but the hole is smaller. There'll be some smaller hardware that gets installed later so don't confuse these blocks. Make sure that you get your 1/2 inch bolt through both blocks. To install our hardware we're going to use a fish wire or bolt leader that comes with the hitch, we'll put everything together first, we'll thread it on, then push one part in at a time. We'll push it into the hole, then we'll push a block into place, and then pull our bolt back through. I'll take my bolt leader and run it through the hole in the hitch and we'll let that set for now. We'll repeat the same process over on the passenger's side. For these holes on the hitch in the center we're going to use these oval holes here using this hardware. This is the same inch long block, but it has a smaller square hole for a 7/16 hardware. Same thing as before, run our bolt leader through the block, thread on our bolt, put the hole assembly inside. Pull it back through, make sure everything sits okay, and then we'll thread this through the hitch. Leave it just like that, now we'll do the same thing on the other side. Now with all the hardware loosely installed we'll go ahead and pull the bolts through. With the weight pinching on a bolt holding it in place we can install the rest of our hardware. We'll unthread our bolt leader and then we'll install the matching conical tooth washer and nut. Do this on both bolts keeping everything loosely installed. Turn our attention to this hardware here, again it's loosely installed, I'm going to push it back up. Pull my pull wire out through the hitch so it's away from the hitch for now. We need to add this block on the inside, we'll thread it through the block, we'll push the bolt up, slide our block into place, then we'll run my bolt leader back through and pull our bolt through. Then we'll add another conical tooth washer, a 1/2 inch one, and our 1/2 inch nut. Keep it as loose as possible and we'll do the same thing over on the driver's side. With all of our hardware loosely installed we'll start off by tightening down the bolts in the center here first. We'll be using 11/16 socket on this hardware. After it tightened up we'll torque the bolts down as specified in the instructions. For the bolts on the bottom of the frame we'll use a 3/4 inch socket. At this point we can go ahead and reinstall the bumper cover, we'll hook our electrical first and then put it into place. Then we'll reinstall the original hardware. With our bumper cover back in place the last thing remaining is to go ahead and reinstall spare tire. That'll finish it for the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Class 3 2 Inch Receiver Hitch, part number 75882 on this 2014 Ram Promaster 2500. .


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