EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Audi A4

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How to Install the EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch on a 2014 Audi A4

Instructor: Today on our 2014 Audi A4, we're gonna be installing EcoHitch's hidden trailer hitch receiver, part number 206-X7324.This is what our hitch is gonna look like when it's installed. As you can see, the cross tube's gonna be completely hidden behind the bumper, so you're just gonna be able to see the receiver tube sticking out the end here.It's a class three, 2" by 2" hitch receiver. It's gonna be great for all of your towing needs, from trailers, to bike racks, to cargo carriers, it'll handle anything.It uses a 5/8" hitch pin and clip. Now, one doesn't come included with this hitch, but you can pick one up here, at with part number, PC3.It features small plate style safety chain loops, and these little loops here, are gonna be great for working with just about any size safety chain. The opening is large enough to accommodate larger chains, and thin enough here around the wall, for smaller chains.It features a 200 lb tongue weight, and that's the force going down, on top of the receiver, and a 2000 lb gross towing capacity. That's how much it can pull behind it.

It's not weighted for a weight distribution system, and you do want to verify in your owner's manual, that your vehicle's not going to exceed its towing capacities.And now, I've got some measurements for you, to help you in deciding on accessories. From the ground, to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measure about 13-3/4". This is important when determining if you need a drop, rise, or raised shank on any of your accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about 5". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position, without contacting the bumper.We'll begin our installation here, at the back of the vehicle, with our trunk open.

We're gonna need to remove the access panels, on both the driver's and passenger's side. The driver's side simply pulls down, and our passenger side simply pulls out. You'll just have to get behind it, and just tug it out.We'll remove this plastic nut here. Now, it is pretty tight, so you may have a difficult time removing it. There are some holes, so you can slide a screw driver through, to help get it started.Then, we'll remove the nut on the stud located here.We'll now remove the tail light assembly.

You want to take a trim panel remover tool, get it behind the tail light, and just push it rearward. That'll release it. We'll now disconnect our electrical connector, located here. There's a tab you will push in, so you can pull it out. That release tab is located right there.

And we'll set this assembly aside, and repeat the exact same procedures on the other side.Now, we're on our inside fender well area, on our driver's side. We're gonna need to remove three torque screws, using a T25 torque socket. Then, remove the other two, located here, and here.We'll then remove the three torques bolts, located here on the bottom, using the same T25 torque socket.Then, you'll want to remove the push pin, located on your passenger's side. Take your trim panel remover tool, or a flat bladed screw driver, pop out the center of the tab, and then you can remove the entire pin.We can now remove our fascia. So, starting at one side, peel back from our fender liner here, and just start working your way around.When you get to the pin, you'll need to remove the pin. You can use a flat bladed screw driver, to get underneath of it. Just pop it up, and we'll set it aside.You can now separate it from the pin. We can do the same thing on our other side. We're gonna peel it back from our side, where our fender liner starts. When we get to the pin, we'll pop that up.Once you've got it loose on both sides, we can take our fascia off, and set it aside, where it won't get damaged.We might need to remove our spare tire. We're gonna lift up on this panel. We'll take this out, set it aside. We can unscrew our spare tire, pull it out, set it aside. And then, we can lift this cover off.Now, we'll need to remove the four buckles, located in your trunk. There's two on each side. If you lift up on the lever on the buckle there, you'll find two torque screws, that we're gonna remove with a T30 torque socket. We'll now repeat that, for the remaining three buckles.Now, we'll need to remove the trim panel, located here at the back. To do this, the panel does just pull straight up, but to make it easier, I do recommend you peel back your weather stripping here, because it does overlap it, and it's already a really tight fit, to pull this thing out.Another benefit of pulling that back is that, you ca pull it from both ends, because it'll go straight up. So, you can pull it from the bottom, while also prying it, here in the front. Just work your way across, and we can set that aside.Now, we're able to easily lift up on our side here. Now, it is possible that you can just take out just this clip, and lift it up, and get to it with a wrench, or something, but to make things much easier, you can pull off those extra panels.We'll take out this bolt with a 16 mm socket. We won't be reinstalling it, so we'll just set that aside.Now, we'll prepare our bolt to be installed. Slide one of the large, flat washers on the head of the bolt, and then we'll install it. We'll tighten this bolt down, with a 17 mm socket. Then, we'll repeat that same step on the other side, then torque your hardware to the specifications in your instructions.Next, we'll be lowering down our exhaust. Before we do that, we want to make sure we secure it, so it won't fall too far, and cause any damage. We're gonna take a strap. We're gonna go over our suspension, and we're gonna hook it in place. Once you've got this tight, we can lower it down later if we need to, to get more out of our exhaust, but this will keep us safe from causing any damage.We'll then lower down the exhaust, by removing the bolt here, on our exhaust hanger, using a 13 mm socket.Now, on the other side of our muffler, we'll find another hanger we'll need to remove as well. This one also removes with a 13 mm socket.You can then adjust your strap as you need to, so that way you can lower it down.Next, we'll remove the heat shield on this side, by removing the four nuts, with a 10 mm socket. There's one located here, one located here, and two more located there. Now your heat shield will come down. You might have to peel it off of some of the studs. It is pretty sharp, so using a flat bladed screwdriver is a pretty good idea.We're now gonna need to cut a hole in our material here. We want to add and mark our hole, per the illustration provided in our instructions. Now, in order to get this hole, there's a lot of different ways you could do it. You could use a cut off wheel. You could drill a hole. You could use some tin snips, after you drill a hole. We're gonna use a large socket, and a smaller socket as a punch, to just punch right on through, and now we've got our hole.We'll then take the fish wire that comes in our kit. We're gonna take the straight end, push it up through the large opening here, go back to the smaller opening here, towards the front of the vehicle. We need to bring it down through that hole. We'll then take one of the long spacers, slide it over our fish wire, and thread our carriage bolt onto the coiled end. We'll then push our spacer up into the frame, followed by our carriage bolt. We're gonna pull it down through the hole here.To feed our other bolt in, we're gonna take the spacer first, and place it over our coiled end, thread the carriage bolt on our coiled end, then we'll push them both up into the frame, one at a time, and pull it back down.We need to remove this coil wire, so we can reuse it. We're gonna feed carriage bolts in on our other side, using the same procedures we did on this side.Now, reinstall your heat shield, and grab a buddy, to help you lift your hitch up. Then, we'll thread a flange nut, onto each of the carriage bolts. Once you get a carriage bolt started on each side, the hitch will hold itself into position, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware.Both of the carriage bolts use the flange nuts. It'll be the same on each side. And the longer bolts that we threaded down in that earlier step, we'll use a spacer plate. This is the square spacer plate, followed by a flat washer, a black washer, and a regular nut. You'll install the same hardware, in the same positions, on the other side. We'll tighten down the bolts with the large spacer, using a 17 mm socket, and we'll tighten down our carriage bolts, using a 19 mm socket. Then, torque all of your hardware to the specifications found in your instructions.We've already marked out the area on our bumper, that we're gonna need to cut out. So, I'm gonna use a cut off wheel, and we're gonna cut this section out here. You can now clean up the edges, using a razor knife, or a file.You can now put your exhaust back up, reinstall your hanger. Now, you might notice when you put it back up, it's a little tight. It does rub a little bit against your exhaust.If you have any exhaust tape, which is like a thicker Kevlar, I would recommend that you put some down your muffler, to help act as a vibration dampener between your muffler, and your hitch. Then, we install the other exhaust hanger, on the other side of the muffler.Now that our exhaust is all the way reinstalled, we can take the strap back off.Once you get your fascia set back into position, we're gonna need to reinstall those pins that we removed. You want to make sure that the little door that's located here, is shut. This does flap open. This will guide it down through both pins, and push it back into place. Do the same thing on the other side.Now, reinstall all the hardware for your bumper, and reassemble everything in your trunk. Included in the kit, you'll get a rubber trim piece, that you can place around the portion that you cut out of your bumper. This will help just protect it, and give it a little bit nicer look.That completes our installation of EchoHitch's hidden trailer hitch receiver, in our 2014 Audi A4.

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