Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2013 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen

Today on our 2013 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagon we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Draw-Tite SportFrame trailer hitch receiver. This is a custom fit class one trailer hitch with an 1-1/4" opening. Its part number is 24866. Now here's what our hitch is going to look like once we get it installed on the vehicle. As you can see, you see it all the way across here. It's going to tuck up over our muffler on this side so we won't have to worry about moving that.

Then we've got the longer bar for our middle support. That runs up just underneath our wheel well area here at the back. It's a class one hitch so we're going to have options as far as bike racks go. Typically limited to two, or also light duty hauling. Now the hitch is going to offer us a 200 pound tongue weight rating, that's the maximum amount of downward force we can apply to the tongue, and a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is going to be the total of the trailer and everything we've got loaded. We'll want to look into the owners manual just to make sure our Jetta can handle these loads.

If not, we'll go off of whichever is the lowest. Our hitch is going to have a 1/2" pinhole diameter, so all the 1/2" pinhole accessories will work out fine. We've got an 1-1/4" by 1-1/4" opening here at the rear and plenty of room for our safety chains to connect in whether we're doing a trailer or maybe we need the extra support with a strap. Now a few measurements that will be helpful in selecting our ball mount or maybe bike rack. These will be from the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening. We have about 9-3/4".

From the center of our hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of our bumper it's about 3-3/4. We'll begin our installation here under the passenger side. What we're going to do is remove the three Torx bolts around the perimeter, and then the two plastic hex nuts that we have here in the middle. Now we'll grab a pair of pliers, or you could use a socket if you want to and just back these off. Then we'll just pull that down.

In this case we'll return it to our customer. Now it's time to lower the exhaust down a little bit. We've got a rubber hanger located here just in front of the rear axle that we'll be removing. Then there's also two bolts in the hanger back here that we're going to be taking out. Now just for good measure it's always a good idea to give your exhaust a little support from the underside here. We're just going to use a cam buckle strap. That way when we release those it can come down and rest right on there for us. For the hanger here just in front of that rear axle we're going to use a little bit of penetrating oil or a little lubricant, just help it slide off. Then we can head back here and take out the two bolts. We'll just allow that to come down and rest on our strap. Now I'm going to move this exhaust isolator down and you'll see the two small tabs here, one on each side. We need to bend those up. Now we'll also remove the three bolts that are holding our vapor canister up into place. Then we've got our last one tucked up right under the rear bumper cover here. Then we can just let that come down a little bit just like that. Now let's take our fish wire, let's bring it in through the hole that's right here in the side of the frame and push it back towards the rear. We're going to be using that access hole right there. We'll feed that in far enough you can see our wire poking out right here. We'll grab that with some pliers and guide it out just like that. We're going to grab our spacer block and feed that on, and then thread on our carriage bolt. We'll guide those up into our frame rail separately. Now with that waiting, we'll take our handle nut now. We want this to be right over our center hole location right here. We'll get a rough idea of about how long that straight section will need to be. Then we'll grab it back here and give it a bend, feed it back in. Then we'll want that, as you can see there, just to be resting right over top of that hole so we can thread our bolt in. Now we're going to take the spacer block and we need to position that so it's sitting just underneath the hitch there. Use a piece of tape just to hold that in place. Then we can just poke out the middle of it there. That will leave us ready to bring our hitch right up into place. Now as we raise the hitch into position we want to start our fish wire right here through our spacer and also our hitch. Just guide it over. We'll start our hex bolt with a conical tooth washer here on this side. You want those teeth to be facing up. We want to get that started right into that handle nut that we had up there. Here on the driver side we're going to rotate our exhaust bracket back up into place. Then we'll go right through that, through the hitch, into the holes that our exhaust hanger was in before. Once we've got one of these started well and our one started on the other side, we can allow the hitch to hang while we get the rest of our fasteners taken care of. Now we can pull off our fish wire. We want to be careful not to let the bolt drop back into the frame. Onto that we're going to add one of the conical tooth washers and then thread on our hex nut. With all of our exterior fasteners in place, let's head into the trunk. Let's remove our . any coverings or anything you might have on the floor. We need to gain access in here to our spare tire area. Now we can see the plug right here that we that we want to remove. Then you'll see our hitch lined up just below it there. Here on the top side we're going to bring in the large spacer block, allow that to go right down in through our hitch. What we'll do is just seal up any of the openings that we have here. We'll take a little bit right around the main portion. We're trying to seal any exhaust gasses or any water from getting inside of the vehicle here. What that down, that will seal the bottom, and a little bit on each side there will take care of the side portion. Perfect. That's all we really need to do here in the trunk so let's get our spare tire and everything else put back into place. Now let's go around to the underside and we'll put a conical tooth washer on here and the hex nut that's provided. Now we use the 1/2" carriage bolt for this area and the 7/16 goes on that passenger side. You'll see the difference between the two. Let's just snug everything up temporarily for now. Now we'll go through and torque everything down to the specifications listed on the instructions. Now we can get our vapor canister put back up into place here. We're also going to put the one Torx bolt back in here on the very rear side. This will actually hold our fascia up into place. The two on the side, that was just for that panel, but the one back here we want to put back in. Now let's get that rubber isolator put back on our exhaust and we'll be ready to hit the road. We'll hit this with a little bit of spray lubricant just like before, help us a little bit get it on there. There we go. Now we're good to pull down our strap and our hitch is in. That will complete today's installation of the Hidden Hitch custom fit class one trailer hitch receiver, part number 60283, on our 2013 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagon. That's going to complete today's installation of the Draw-Tite class one SportsFrame trailer hitch receiver, part number 24866, on our 2013 Volkswagon jetta SportWagon.

Questions and Comments about this Video

David W.

Perfect! Thank you for producing this video! 60137


I bought a use one and it has no hardware where I can I buy all the nuts and bolts I need to install this ? 56747

Reply from Rachael H.

You can use the part # RHK that I have linked for your reference. You will need to include the hitch manufacturer, and the hitch part number. For this hitch the part # is 24866 and the manufacturer is Draw-Tite. 49838

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