Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 Lexus ES 350 - Draw-Tite

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How to Install the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch on a 2013 Lexus ES 350


Speaker 1: Today on our 2013 Lexus ES 350, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite class two custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 36530. So here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. The cross tube is going to be visible just right below the bumper, but it is going to blend in with the black plastic on our fascia. It is a class two hitch, which means it's going to give us that inch and 1/4 by inch and 1/4 receiver tube opening. And as you can see, it's going to have a nice, reinforced collar, not only giving it added strength but also a nice, finished look.Now, the way we're going to mount all of our accessories is going to be this hole right here. It's going to use a standard half inch pin and clip that are not included, but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC2.

And the safety chains are going to be a loop style welded to the bottom, and as you can see, we're going to have plenty of room to get most size hooks on or off without having to interfere with anything.Your hitch is going to have a 300 pound tongue weight along with a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is going to be great for light towing or even a bike rack or cargo carrier. I just always want to mention you always double check your owners' manual to make sure your vehicle can handle pulling that amount of weight. I'd like to give you a few measurements that'll help you deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a bike rack or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper, it's going to be right about 5 inches. And from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, that's going to be right about 9 and 1/2 inches.Now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.

To begin our installation, we're going to need to lower down our exhaust, and we're going to have two hangers on the back of each muffler towards the back of our bumper as well as one behind the passenger side muffler and one just behind where it Ys together. And take a little bit of lubricant. I'm going to spray the hangers down just to make it a little bit easier for them to come off. You can use a little bit of penetrating oil or just some soapy water just to make it that much easier for them to come off. You're going to want to do that for each one of our hangers.I'm going to put a strap up to help support the exhaust before I take it down.

That way, it won't cause any damage once it starts coming down. I'm going to take a pry bar, and I'm going to start prying those rubber isolators off the hangers, working it off. We're going to do that for each side of our muffler. Then, I'll show you how we're going to get the other two off.Now, on the back side of our muffler here, we're not going to pull the rubber isolator off. But since it's bolted to the top of the frame, I'm going to take a 12 millimeter socket and just remove the bolts.

And for the one right where our two mufflers come to a Y, it's going to have the same thing, two bolts with 12 millimeter heads. We'll use that same socket to remove them. We're going to need to remove our heat shield, and there's going to be two bolts holding them in place. I'm going to be using a 12 millimeter socket to remove it. We'll go ahead and remove the other one, as well.So before we get our hitch into position, I just want to go over a little bit of how our hardware's going to go into place. Our hitch is going to come up, and it's going to line up with this hanger right here, and we're going to take a half inch bolt with a conical tooth washer, and you're going to want to make sure that the teeth are facing away from the head of the bolt. And our hitch is going to be right here, so that's going to go through the hitch, through this bracket here. And then, on the outside of the bracket, we're going to come in with a half inch flat washer and secure it down with a half inch nut. And that's going to be the same hardware combination on each side.Now, with an extra set of hands, you're going to want to lift the hitch over the exhaust, and you're going to want to line up the hitch, push your bolt through. Then, we can loosely attach our half inch flat washer and the nut. Then, we're going to go to the forward-most hole on our side plate of our hitch here. I'm going to go ahead and mark it out. We're going to do that on both sides. Then, we take our hitch back down and drill out our hole. We're going to come back with a small drill bit, and we're going to drill a pilot hole right in the center of where we marked. We'll do that for the other side, too.I'm going to come back with a step drill bit, and I'm going to enlarge that hole until I can get my spacer block and the rest of my hardware into place. Now, once I've reached the maximum part of my step drill bit, I realized that it wasn't big enough to get my hardware through. So I came back, and I filed the opening to more of an oblong opening. And now, I can get my spacer block and my carriage bolt through with no problem. Now, it's never a good idea to leave bare metal exposed on your vehicle, so I'm going to take a little bit of spray paint. I'm going to spray paint the inside of that hole, hopefully to prevent rust and corrosion from building up. And we'll go ahead and do that for both sides.So now, we can grab our pull wire. We're going to take that spacer block, and we're going to slide it over the coiled end and then take our carriage bolt and thread it onto the coiled end. You take your carriage bolt, push it into the frame, and then feed the spacer into the frame. Now, once you have it all in the frame, give it a little tug, and we're going to pull the bolt back down through. And go ahead and leave the pull wire attached and go ahead and do the same process on the other side.So we can go ahead and take our fish wire, put it through the appropriate hole on our hitch, and we can raise it over the exhaust and put it into place. And you'll want to feed your bolt through the side and make sure that pull wire and bolt comes through the appropriate hole. We loosely install our hardware so the hitch won't fall. Then, we can get the rest of our hardware in place. So we can go ahead and pull our pull wire off of our 7/16ths carriage bolt, and being careful not to push the bolt back into the frame, we're going to take a 7/16ths conical toothed washer. You want to make sure that the teeth are going to face towards the hitch, and a trick to get the nut started is you put the washer in place and push against the bolt. It'll trap it, making it a little bit easier to spin that nut on. And we need to do that on the other side, as well.With the hitch loosely in place, we can go ahead and take our heat shield. We're going to want to line it up with the existing holes. Once we have it lined up, we're going to notice that the bolt that's coming through our frame is going to interfere with the heat shield. So what I'm going to do is I'm just going to push pretty good on the heat shield to kind of make a mark, a little dent right there so I know where my bolt is.And then, we're going to bring it back down and drill it out. So I'm going to take that same step drill bit and drill a hole, or if you don't have a step drill bit, you can cut this out and just start bending it around. You just want a relief big enough so that bolts can go through and it you can access it but doesn't interfere with the heat shield. Then, we can go ahead and loosely place our heat shield back up there, check the fit, and make any modifications if we need to.I'm going to come back using a 3/4 inch socket and wrench. I'm going to torque down my 1/2 inch hardware to the specified amount in the instructions. We'll repeat that for any 1/2 inch hardware. Now, for our 7/16ths carriage bolts, you want to come back with an 11/16ths socket and torque them down to the specified amount in the instructions. We'll repeat that for the other bolt. So we can go ahead and put our heat shield back in place, and for the forward bolt towards the front of our car, we're going to reuse the factory bolt, putting it back in. But for the one towards the back of our vehicle, we're going to take the supplied bolt, feed it around our heat shield, and thread it into place. We'll go ahead and repeat that for the other side, as well.So we can go ahead and lift our exhaust back into place and slide the rubber isolators over the posts on our hanger. And then, replace the bolts, holding the hangers in place. Finally, we can remove the strap. We're ready to hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite custom fit class two trailer hitch receiver, part number 36530, on our 2013 Lexus ES 360.

Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Robert C

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