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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 Fiat 500 - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2013 Fiea 500

Today, on our 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth, we'll be installing the Curt class 1 one and a quarter inch receiver tube hitch, part number C11347. Next, we'll go ahead and give you a couple of measurements to assist you in selecting accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of the bumper is three and three quarter inches. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is nine and a quarter inches. This will assist you in selecting accessories such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier. Now, here's what our hitch is going to look like, once it's installed. This is a class 1 one and a quarter inch receiver tube hitch. Here, we have our easy to access chain hold downs, and our pre-drilled hitch pinhole.

This hitch will carry up to 200 pounds of tongue weight, and 2,000 pounds of towing capability. As you can see, once it's installed, the only thing really exposed is the hitch tube, and we have easy access, without sticking out past the vehicle, so it's still tucked up nice and neatly underneath. Now, we'll go ahead and show you how to install it. Now, to begin our install, we're first going to remove the rear fascia or air diffuser. To remove it, there are two torque spit fasteners, one on each corner. We're going to start there. Once we remove those two fasteners, we have two more in the center to remove.

Now, with the two torque spit fasteners removed, we'll move to the center two screw fasteners. Now, with our fasteners removed, you can see our lower fascia's loose. There's plastic clips underneath that we'll need to pop free, so we'll carefully start pulling it free. As I work it along from the outside, pulling pressure on the fascia, on the inside, we can press on the plastic tab. Note, as we are pulling pressure on the fascia to remove it, we also used a pair of pliers just to straighten up the plastic tab, to help it come through the slot, where it was engaged and hooked. By helping it through the slot, makes it easier to remove, and less chance of breaking one of the plastic tabs. Now, with the rear fascia removed, we need to lower the exhaust.

To lower the exhaust, we have a rubber isolator on each side. We need to remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger. To do that, we're going to spray each one with a spray lubricant, and then use a pry bar or pliers to remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger. Now, if you want to give yourself a little more working room, you can move forward on the exhaust pipe, and remove an additional hanger. We'll repeat the same process of using the spray lubricant, and simply just removing the isolator from the hanger. Now, you can see, our exhaust has dropped down, and it's sitting on top of the rear axle. Now, on some models, there's an optional exhaust hanger that sits in this area.

On those models, you will remove the exhaust hanger and bracket, as the hitch will take its place. As you can see, we have the model where the hangers here hang off the rear bumper and frame, so we do not need to remove it. Starting here on the passenger's side, we have a total of three attachment points. The hole here, pre-drilled into the frame, will eventually get a carriage bolt and block. Then our second, or center attachment point, will be a weld nut, underneath a protective covering, and that weld nut is built into the frame by the manufacturer. Our third attachment point will also be a weld nut, which is also covered up. Now that we've identified our attachment points, we're going to go ahead and remove the rubber plug in the frame. This will serve as our access hole, to get our hardware into the frame, and then pull it down through our forward attachment point. Now, here on the passenger's side, our forward attachment point is, again, a pre-drilled hole in the frame, and our rear attachment point has actually been covered up with the seam sealer. So we clean out the seam sealer. There's a small pre-drilled hole. We'll take this hole and enlarge it, so that we can use it for the carriage bolt and block that will come down through the frame through our access plug, here. Now, to drill it out, I'm just going to use a step bit process, starting with a smaller bit, and working our way up to our final size of 7/16. Now, we're back over on the passenger's side. Before we attempt to install the new hardware into the weld nuts, we want to clean them out. We're going to use a little spray lubricant, and our nylon tube brush, part number 814092. Thoroughly clean out the threads of those weld nuts before we install the new hardware, because over time, they'll build up with rust, dust, dirt and debris. It can make it very difficult to install the new fasteners. Once we have them cleaned out, we can go ahead and take one of the new 8 millimeter bolts supplied with the install kit, and thread it into the weld nut, to make sure it'll go nice and easily. Now note, here at the forward attachment point, a little bit of the undercoated body spray is plugging up the hole, so I'm just going to take my 7/16 drill bit and run it through there to clean it out, make it easier to get my new hardware in place. Now, with all our attachment points prepped, we're ready to start installing our hardware. Here, on the passenger's side, are four attachment points. It's going to be our 7/16 carriage bolt and block that will come down through the attachment point, then through the hitch. It'll get secured with a 7/16 flange nut. To get our hardware in place, we'll use the pull wire provided. We'll take the pull wire, feed it through the attachment point, and now at the access hole that we removed the rubber plug from earlier. Then, we'll take the block, slide it onto the pull wire, followed by our carriage bolt we can thread onto the end of the pull wire. Feed the block into the frame first, followed by the carriage bolt. We'll then use the pull wire to pull them down over the attachment point. I'm going to go ahead and leave my pull wire attached, because it will assist with getting our hitch up into place, without pushing my hardware back up into the frame. Now, I can move over to the driver's side, and we'll repeat the same process with our two attachment points over there. Here on the driver's side, we'll leave our pull wires attached to the carriage bolts. Again, it will just assist with getting our hitch in place, without pushing the hardware back up into the frame. We are now ready to go ahead and install the hitch. We're going to take the driver's side, feed it up over the exhaust first, and then bring the passenger's side in. Starting on the passenger's side, I'm going to take my pull wire, feeding it through our hitch, and then bringing it up to the frame. Then go ahead and take my 8 millimeter bolt, and conical toothed washer. The teeth of the washer will face the hitch, and thread it into place. I'm going to do the same with the rear attachment point here, on the passenger's side. We'll just go ahead and install our fastener finger tight, until we have them all in place. Now, with the weld nuts holding our passenger's side, we'll move over to the driver's side. We'll take the pull wire, feed it through the attachment point for our front and rear, bring our hitch up tight to the frame, then remove the pull wire, and install our flange nut. Now, we'll move back over to the passenger's side, and repeat the same process of removing the pull wire and installing our flange nut. Once we have all the hardware in place, we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Once we have it tightened down, we can then go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. Now, with our hitch secured and torqued to specifications, we're going to go ahead and reinstall the exhaust. Now, we need to cut out a section similar to this, for our hitch receiver tube. So first, we're going to find the middle point of our fascia. Now, once we find the middle of our fascia, we're going to go three inches wide, by four and a half inches deep. Now, to cut out the fascia, you could use a utility knife, a pair of tin snips, or if you have a rotary tool, it works really well also, because the fascia is pretty thick. Once our cutout's made, we're ready to reinstall it. We get our fascia piece lined back up, and snap it back into place. To help snap it back in place, I'm just supporting it from underneath, as I push the tabs back in. Once we have the fascia back in place, we'll go ahead and reinstall the fasteners to secure it. That will complete our install of the Curt hitch on our 2013 Fiat 500. .

Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Written by:
Lindsey S
Employee Leah B
Edited By:
Leah B

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