Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2013 BMW 3 Series

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2013 BMW 3 Series


Speaker 1: Today on 2013 BMW Three Series we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt class one custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number C11367. Here's what our hitch looks like when it's fully installed, the cross tube's gonna be tucked up underneath the bumper nicely and all we're really gonna see is the receiver tube sticking out right here.Now our receiver tube's gonna have a nice reinforced collar, not only giving it added strength but giving it a nice, clean finished look. Now our hitch is a class one which means it's gonna give us that inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening. Here on the side we can see that it's gonna use a standard half inch pin and clip, they are included in our kit which is always a nice bonus. Now as far as the safety chain loops go they're gonna be a rolled steel stock style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube and as you can see we're not gonna have too much trouble getting most sized hooks on or off and still have room for our locking hitch pin if you choose to have one.Our hitch is gonna feature a 200 pound tongue weight along with a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. Now I do want to mention you always want to double check your BMW's owners manual to make sure that your car can handle that amount of weight.

Now the manufacturer does also recommend for any non trailer loads or any loads that are not supported by tires such as bike racks or cargo carrier that you do use a stabilization strap and you can pick one of those up on our website using part number 18050.I'd like to give you a few measurements that's gonna help you decide on accessories for your new hitch such as a bike rack or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost end of the bumper is gonna be right about three and a half inches. Now from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening that's gonna be right about 11 and a half inches. Now that we've seen what it looks like and gone over some of the details let's show you how we get the hitch installed.Now in order for us to get our hitch in place we're gonna have to remove our fascia. To begin our installation we're gonna come to our trunk, we're gonna open it up so we can remove our lights, we're gonna have this little pushpin type faster and to make it a little bit easier to come out I'm gonna take a flat bladed screwdriver and unscrew it.

Once we have that pin removed we'll go ahead and pull the cover off and that'll expose the bolts holding on our taillight so we can go ahead and remove the one on the other side as well. With those removed you're gonna want to grab the taillight and you're gonna want to pull straight back and out and away from the car.Once we have it removed we can come following the wires and find the connector. We can just push on this little tab right here and it'll release the connector and we can remove it. You can go ahead and pull the wires off of the housing so we can set the housing aside so it won't get damaged. We'll go ahead and repeat that for the other side as well.

Now right by the taillight where that section meets our trunk area we're gonna have a bolt holding the bumper in place and we're gonna need to remove it and we're gonna be using a 10 millimeter socket to do so. We're gonna need to pull both sides off so we can go ahead and do the same thing on the other side.Now on the underside of our vehicle we're gonna have to remove the heat shield that's directly behind our bumper here, but in order to do that to get to all the fasteners we're gonna have to lower the exhaust down. Before we lower it down if we come over to the drivers side towards the tailpipe we're gonna have a connector here, there's gonna be a small tab right here just on the outside of the connector. We push in on that and be able to disconnect the wire and not have to worry about it getting damaged.Now there's gonna be two hangers that are gonna be holding our exhaust in place and they're gonna be in the same location just right outside the muffler, one on each side. Before we lower our muffler though I do want to put up a strap that way I don't have to worry about the muffler falling down too far and just giving it a little bit of extra support.

I'm just gonna use this cam buckle strap and tighten it up so that it just has a little bit of room to come down. Just gonna spray the hanger down with a little bit of lubricant and that's gonna help that rubber isolator slide off a little bit easier and you're gonna want to do that on both sides. Now to get these hangers off we can just take a pry bar and you're gonna want to pry that rubber isolator off of the hanger and it doesn't matter if you pry it off the lower or upper one, whichever one wants to come off easier and we're gonna go ahead and do that for the other side as well.Now with our muffler down we can start taking out the fasteners right here at the edge of our bumper and we're gonna have three in total, we're gonna be using a 10 millimeter socket. Now on the inside of our fascia we're gonna have four eight millimeter bolts just underneath or on the inside of where we took those three 10 millimeter bolts out. I'm gonna grab an eight millimeter socket and we're gonna remove those bolts. Now right above the muffler we're gonna have three fasteners holding our heat shield to the bottom of our trunk pan and we're gonna be using a 10 millimeter socket to remove them. With all the hardware removed we're able to pull our heat shield out and we can set it aside.We're gonna need to remove the splash shields on both sides of our vehicle and we're gonna have three bolts on the bottom as well as another one up top. Now to remove these three bolts I'm gonna be using an eight millimeter socket. With the three on the bottom removed here we're gonna remove the other three on the other side. Now right above our muffler and tailpipe we're gonna have a 10 millimeter plastic nut that's holding our plastic cover in place. I'm gonna take a 10 millimeter socket and remove that nut. Now on the passengers side it is slightly different location but it's still gonna be in the vertical spot right by our muffler and again using a 10 millimeter socket I'm gonna remove that plastic nut.Now if we come to the inside of our wheel well we're gonna see that we're gonna have a few fasteners and it may be a little difficult for you to see, but we should have two bolts in the vertical area of our wheel well and then two more going horizontally towards the center section of our car, these are the screws that we're looking to remove. Now that we have this one done we're gonna go ahead and remove all the other ones so that we can gain access behind our wheel well cover here. Now once we remove those two lower bolts going towards the center this splash shield is gonna be freed up so on the passengers side we can just take it out and we're gonna go ahead and set this aside.With all the bolts removed that we need to remove in the wheel well area we can peel it back. If we look right at the joining pieces where our fender here meets our fascia if we look up there's gonna be a torque's bit bolt holding it in place, then we'd be using a T20 torque's bit socket to remove it. Now it would help if you have a short extension or something to reach it because it is right at the corner there. With that bolt removed we're gonna go ahead and repeat that whole process on the other side as well.Now I do want to mention on the drivers side there is some clips that are holding in that center that is attached to the exhaust so I'm gonna take a trim panel tool and you can use a flathead screwdriver or whatever you have available and you're gonna want to go underneath that clip there and pry down and that'll release the clip and the wire, we're gonna do that for the other one as well. Now with the wire removed we can go ahead and set this splash shield aside too.Now with and extra set of hands we're gonna start pulling our fascia off, you're gonna want to start at the very edge of the wheel well and you're gonna want to start prying away which is gonna release the clips and just work your way towards the center. Now before we take it away we're gonna have to disconnect any electrical components that may be in there, but on our model we don't have any so we're just gonna make sure that we set this aside where it won't get scratched or damaged. Now on each side of our bumper beam we're gonna have two bolts holding it in place, one on top and one on the bottom. Now in order to get our bumper off we'll be using an 18 millimeter socket to remove those nuts. I do want to mention I am gonna leave one on each side on there just enough so my bumper beam won't fall off. We'll go ahead and do the same thing on the other side.Now there's two main reasons why I left my bumper beam loose, but still attached, is because we have some wiring and some electrical components that we're gonna have to disconnect before we pull it off. If we look we're gonna have one connector, it's gonna be on the backside and you can kind of see it right here, it's gonna be the connector with the green, orange, and brown wire right here. We're gonna want to push the tab on the connector to release it, so make it easy on yourself and grab a flathead screwdriver and if you actually come you can see from the front side and you can push in on that little tab with the screwdriver and you should be able to disconnect our connector and we can just leave the side.We're gonna have one more connector also that we're gonna have to disconnect and that's gonna be right at the center of the very back of our fascia. Again, that tab on the end you push in on it and slide that connector off, it is gonna have a few clips going along the way so we can just take that flathead screwdriver and we're gonna pop the clips out so we can release the wire. Then over here on the edge just want to undo it from that harness right there and we can let the wire hang. Now with am extra set of hands it's gonna help me hold the bumper beam while I finally remove the bolts all the way and we can set that aside for right now.We can go ahead and grab our hitch now and we're gonna slide it over the studs that we took our bumper beam off of. We're gonna go ahead and put our bumper beam over our hitch and it's gonna be sandwiched in between our vehicle and our bumper beam. Now I'm gonna take one of the 18 millimeter bolts and I'm gonna thread it on just hand tight so I don't have to worry about the bumper falling off. Once I get this one on hand tight I'll go ahead and move to the other side and get one over there as well. Go ahead and put our top nut in place as well. I'm gonna come back with that same 18 millimeter socket and I'm gonna snug up all the nuts holding my bumper beam and hitch in place and we'll repeat that for the other side as well. I'm gonna come back with that same 18 millimeter socket and I'm gonna torque all those 18 millimeter bolts holding my bumper beam in place to the specified amount in the instructions and I'll repeat that for all the remaining hardware.Before we forget we can go ahead and start plugging our electrical components back in place, putting all the clips back in and plugging the sensors in as well. Just want to make sure that they lock into place and the connectors are secure. Now with an extra set of hands we're gonna go ahead and put our fascia back into place, just gonna line up everything. Once you have the tabs lined up you're just gonna want to push it in, locking those tabs in.Now we can start to put back all the hardware that we had in our wheel wells, starting with that T20 torques bit going at the top, go ahead and secure that one and then we can get the rest of the hardware in place. I do want to mention the bolts that we took our on the vertical section of our wheel wells we did put those back in but the ones that are going in towards the center leave those out for now because those do attach to the splash shield underneath and we'll get to those in a minute. We'll go ahead and put our splash shield back into place, just gonna want to go underneath the fascia and make sure everything lines up, this may take a little bit of work to get it in there.Finally we can put those last two bolts in the inner section of our wheel well now that the splash shield's back in place. Now we'll go ahead and repeat that same process on the other side. Now I do want to mention you don't want to forget to put these clips back into the splash shield on the bottom here on the drivers side, just gonna want to push them back into place but as far as our electrical connector I'm gonna leave this disconnected until I put my exhaust back up.Our heat shield that we removed earlier is not gonna be going back in because our hitch is gonna be in the way. That doesn't mean that we can't put our bolts back here and secure our fascia to the inner section of the bumper there. We can grab the three 10 millimeter bolts and get them started and we can replace them, again using a 10 millimeter socket to tighten those up. Now up top where we removed those three nuts that are holding our heat shield in place we're still gonna put those nuts back because we don't want this heat shield to be rattling around when we're driving down the road. We're gonna be using that same 10 millimeter socket to put those back.We're getting ready to put our exhaust up I'm gonna go ahead and put a little bit of lubricant on to the post right there making it that much easier to slide on to that rubber isolator. Just want to lift up, taking that isolator out to the side a little bit, and we can push it off. We'll go ahead and do that for the other one too. Put our exhaust back up, we can take our connector and plug it back in, just want to make sure it locks into place. With the exhaust back in place we can go ahead and remove the strap and work on putting our taillights back in.We can take our taillight connector, plug it in, and again we want to make sure that it locks into place, put that wire back into the hole there that's on the housing, can line up the tabs, and you're gonna want to push firmly making sure it locks into place. Then we can replace the two 10 millimeter nuts holding it in place. While we're here we'll go ahead and replace that 10 millimeter bolt that's right underneath our taillight section right here. Now with everything in place we'll go ahead and put the cover back in and screw that plastic clip back in place. Now this side's done we're gonna go ahead and do that for the other side as well.With all the panels and everything back in place that'll finish up our install and we're ready to hit the road. That'll finish up our look at the Curt class one custom fit trailer hit receiver, part number C11367 on our 2013 BMW Three Series.

Info for these parts were:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Joshua S
Video by:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Jared G
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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