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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 GMC Terrain - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2012 GMC Terrain


Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 GMC Terrain we're going to be taking a look at, and showing you how to install, the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76028.So here's what our hitch is going to look like. We are going to have to remove that access door in the lower section of our bumper here and mainly all we're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out. It's going to be pretty well hidden by the rear bumper here, so that cross tube is going to be tucked up out of the way.Now it is a Class III hitch which means it's going to give us that two inch by two inch receiver tube opening and have a wide variety of accessories available like ball mounts, bike racks, or cargo carriers. The way we're going to mount all of our accessories is through the forward hole here, and it is going to accept a standard 5/8 pin and clip. While those aren't included in our kit, you can pick them up here at etrailer.com using part number PC3.Now the secondary hole towards the rear of the vehicle here is going to be used exclusively for the J-Pin stabilization device. It's going to have a standard 5/8 section here that's going to go into our hitch pin hole, and this smaller section is going to come into the receiver tube and once we apply the hex nut on the other side, it's going to apply pressure to our accessory.

Now it's also a locking device so it's going to keep all of our accessories nice and secure to the hitch and make sure they don't have any tampering. This is also sold separately and you can pick it up here at etrailer.com.Now the safety chain connection points are going to be a loop style, welded to the bottom of the receiver tube, and since they are just slightly offset from where the hitch pin hole is, we're not going to have too much to worry about as far as interference and we'll be able to get most sized hooks on and off without too much trouble.Our hitch is going to have a 675 pound tongue weight, which is going to be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. It's also going to have a 4,500 pound gross trailer rate rating which is the amount it can pull including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now it's also rated for weight distribution which is going to be a separate component that mounts on your trailer, however those ratings are going to stay the same. Now with all those numbers in mind, I always recommend that you double check your GMC owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight.Next give you a few measurements and that's going to help you in deciding for accessories for you hitch such as a ball mount, a bike rack, or even a cargo carrier.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be right about 3-1/4 inches, now that measurement is going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have adequate clearance between the accessory and it doesn't come in contact with the rear bumper.From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening it's going to be right about 14-1/2 inches. And that measurement is going to come in handy when you're looking at ball mounts, making sure you get the appropriate riser drop for your trailer. And at that height, also, I would recommend a raised shank on a bike rack or a cargo carrier to give us just that little bit of extra ground clearance.So now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To start out we're going to come to the very back of our Terrain and we're going to have this access door at the middle section of our bumper that we're going to have to remove. So if we come to the inside, right around the bottom of the bumper, we have these little tabs and we're going to want to push toward the back and then slightly pull down and it will release that tab out of that hole.

And once we have that released, we're going to pull slightly forward and may have to wiggle it around a little bit to get it to unlock and then pull down releasing the rest of the clips holding it in. And we'll set this aside.Now on the bottom of our frame on each side we're going to have this oblong hole. That's going to be one of our connection points and we're going to have to fish wire some hardware in there so we'll take our pull wire and find the coiled end of it, we're going to find the large spacer block, there's going to be two in our kit, we want to grab the larger one of the two, we're going to slide it over our coiled end of our wire and we're going to take a carriage bolt and we're going to thread that onto the end of the wire. And then one piece at a time we're going to feed our bolt in, and we can take our block. Now this is going to be a pretty tight fit, you just kind of work it back and forth a little bit, see if we can get the whole block in there, and then we're going to pull down so the bolt drops through the spacer block and comes down through the frame.

We're going to do that for both sides.Then if we come to right where we removed that door and come straight up we're going to have our bumper beam, we're going to have a round hole and a square hole on either side to the center. We're going to take another one of our pull wires, we're going to put it through the round hole, and we're going to be pushing it all the way to the outside edge until we can get a hold of it on the other side of our bumper beam. So it will come out over here and you want to make sure that you don't let the tail end go inside the bumper beam. Just want enough so that we can get access to it over here. Then we can take our small spacer block, slide it over the coiled end of our wire, and then thread on another one of our carriage bolts. We're going to guide our block and bolt into the edge of the bumper beam, and we'll pull on that pull wire until we have our bolt drop through that round hole. And we're going to repeat that process for the other side over here.Now if you have weld nuts that are already existing in the frame, we're not going to need to fish for our hardware end, this process will only be used if it's just a bare hole but if there is a weld nut we're just going to use a bolt instead of dropping the carriage bolt through. So we're going to have two more attachment points. On each side of our frame on the outer edge here we're going to add two weld nuts that are going to be attaching our hitch.Now typically these are going to be a little dirty or have some rust in them because there's no covers or anything plugging them up. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a little bit of spray lubricant, and I'm going to spray it inside the weld nut, I'm going to come back with a nylon brush and make sure I clean it out extremely well because we don't want our bolts to be cross threaded or to get gunked up with any kind of rust or debris. And then it's always a good idea to take one of the bolts from our kit and make sure you can at least get it in there, threading it by hand, so we're not going to have any problems when we lift our hitch up. And if you can't, you're just going to want to keep cleaning it and running some more penetrating oil in there until you can get the bolt in by hand. And we'll do that for all four locations, two on each side.Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our hitch into position. Just want to make sure you take your pull wires and come from the top and drop them down through the hitch. So we'll lift it up, making sure that everything lines up, and since this is going to be a little bit easier to get the side bolts in, we're going to take one of those bolts along with a conical toothed washer and make sure the teeth are facing towards the hitch. And we're going to thread them in to those weld nuts in the side of the frame. Just want to make sure you get at least one on each side so the hitch will support itself and then we can get the rest of our hardware in place.We got our carriage bolts, we're going to go ahead and pull the pull wire off, we're going to take another one of those conical toothed washers, again teeth facing towards the hitch. We're going to slide it over the carriage bolts, then we're going to secure down with the hex nut. Now to help us to make sure it doesn't move around on us, if you kind of push on that conical toothed washer it will make it a lot easier to get the nut started on there. And that's the same combination of hardware we're going to use for the rest of our carriage bolts.For the bolts on the side of the frame I'm going to come back with an 18 millimeter socket and snug them up. Then for the hex nuts on our carriage bolts I'm going to be using a 3/4 inch socket to snug those up. And for the ones right here that are directly in the center it will help if you use a swivel so you can get access to them. Now we're going to come back with a torque wrench and we're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. And you want to make sure you check your instructions well because there is going to be a different torque rating for our 1/2 inch bolts rather than the M12 bolts on the side.With our hitch torqued down we can see that that cover's not going to fit back in place so we do have the option of trimming it out or just leaving it off.And that will finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class III Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76028 on our 2012 GMC Terrain.

Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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