Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 Ford Edge - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2012 Ford Edge


Today on our 2012 Ford Edge, we're going to review an install, the Draw-Tite Class III, 2 inch receiver tube hitch, part number 75992. Here what our hitch is going to look like once it's installed. As you can see, the only thing really exposed is our receiver tube as the main body of the hitch is hidden behind the rear fascia. This is a complete steel and fully welded constructed hitch and the entire hitch is covered in a nice, black powdered-coated finish so it blends in nicely with the outer body of the vehicle. This is our Class III hitch. It's got chain-hold downs on each side of the receiver tube along with a 5/8 pinhole that goes all the way through, and a 1/2 inch pinhole for the J-Style Anti-Rattle bolt. Being a Class III hitch is a 2 inch by 2 inch receiver tube, it's capable of up to 400 pounds of tongue weight, and a 4,000 pound tow capacity. Next, we'll give you a couple of measurements to assist you in selecting accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is 5 1/4 inches. From the top of the receiver tube opening down to the ground is 12 1/2 inches.

This will assist you in selecting accessories such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier. We'll now go ahead and show you how to install the hitch. To begin our install, we're going to put a safety strap underneath the exhaust so that when we lower the exhaust, it will help support the weight. We're going to have a total of 3 rubber isolators we'll need to remove from the metal hangers. One here on the passenger side at the tail pipe, one just forward of the muffler behind the rear axle, and one coming off the driver's side tail pipe. To remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger, we'll spray each one with a spray lubricant and then use our pry bar or pliers to remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger. Once we have the rubber isolators removed, we'll go in an use the safety strap to safely lower the weight of the exhaust and expose the frame rails.

Once the frame rails are exposed, we need to remove the heat shield. The heat shield has got multiple fasteners, 2 here at the frame, and 2 here towards the center that will need to be removed. To remove the push-pin fastener, we can use a flat-blade screwdriver or we're using a true panel tool that will help pop it free. I'll pull the heat shield down and out, and set it aside to be trimmed later. We will go ahead and repeat the same process on the driver's side. Next, we're going to relocate the fascia bracket. To do that, we'll remove the screw that holds it.

Take the fascia bracket and fold it back into the fascia. We'll go ahead and reinstall the screw. Next, we're going to trim our heat shield. The heat shield will need to be trimmed to accommodate for the hardware. We're going to cut the tab off, and make a small notch for the rear attachment point. To cut this you could use a pair of tin snips, die grinder, or we're going to use a cut-off wheel.

We'll go ahead and repeat the same process to the second heat shield. We're going to have a total of 6 attachment points, 3 on each side. Each of these attachment points gets the identical hardware so each process we do here on the passenger side, we're going to repeat identically on the driver's side. Our attachment points will be a 1/2 inch carriage bolt and block, and will pass down through the frame, through the hitch, and get secured with a conical tooth washer and hex nut. To get our hardware into the frame, we're going to use the 1/2 inch bolt leader supplied with our install kit. At this time, we only have 4 of the 6 attachment points exposed. We're going to reuse the manufacturer's round hole here at the end of the frame, and the oval hole forward of the frame. To get our hardware into the frame, we'll take the bolt leader, feed it through the attachment point, and out the end of the frame behind the fascia. Once we have access to the end of the bolt leader, we'll slide on the block, and thread on the carriage bolt. We'll then feed the block and bolt into the frame separately. Once we get both fed into the frame, we'll then take the pull wire, pull the carriage bolt down through the block, and through the frame. We'll leave our bolt leader attached as it will assist with getting the hitch into place without pushing that carriage bolt back up into the frame. We'll go ahead and repeat the same process here for the center attachment point. Keep in mind each process we do here to one side is going to get repeated identically on the opposite side as our hardware and attachment points are identical. Next, we'll reinstall our heat shields. Note that the 2 frame fasteners will not get reinstalled as our heat shield will get sandwiched between the hitch and the frame. We're now ready to install our hitch. It's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to hold the hitch while you install your fasteners. We'll bring the hitch up to the frame, and we'll feed our bolt leaders through the attachment points. Use the bolt leaders to pull the carriage bolts down through the hitch. Then we can remove the bolt leader, and install our fasteners. Install our conical tooth washer. The teeth of the washer will face the hitch, and our hex nut. As we install each fastener, we'll install them finger tight until we have the 4 in place. Now, with the 4 fasteners installed, we'll tighten them down. With our hitch in place and tightened down, we'll use the hitch as a template to drill out our third attachment point. To drill it out, we're going to use step bit process starting with a smaller pilot bit and opening it up to our final size. Once we have it drilled out, we can install our hardware. We'll be repeating the same process of using the pull wire to get our carriage bolt and block into the frame and then down though the hitch. Once we get our carriage bolt pulled down through the hitch, we're going to remove the bolt leader, and install our conical tooth washer and nut. Once we have our carriage bolt and fastening hardware in place on both sides, we'll tighten it down. With all of our fasteners tightened down, we'll go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. With our hitch installed and tightened down and torqued to specifications, we'll reinstall the exhaust. Once we have the exhaust reinstalled, we'll remove the safety strap. Just like that, our hitch is installed, we're ready to hit the road. That will do it for the review and install of our Draw-Tite Class III, 2 inch receiver tube hitch, part number 75992 on our 2012 Ford Edge. .


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