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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2011 Toyota Sienna - Draw-Tite

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2011 Toyota Sienna

Speaker 1: Today on our 2011 Toyota Sienna, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite class three custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 76112.So, here's what the hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. Now one of the really nice things about this one is the fact that the cross tube is going to be completely hidden behind the bumper and all we're going to see is the receiver tube sticking out. The nice thing about that is that we're not going to have that cross tube hanging down below the bumper, so it's going to give us a little bit better peace of mind when we're backing out of the driveway or going over a speed bump.Our hitch is going to offer us a two inch by two inch receiver tube opening, so we're going to have a really wide variety of options for accessories that we can mount up. The way that we're going to mount all of our accessories is the hitch fit hole here. The one closest to the front of the vehicle and it is going to accept the standard 5/8 pin and clip. Then, this secondary hole here, that's going to be used exclusively for the J-pin stabilization device.The way that's going to work is it's going to have a hook here.

We're going to put the threaded section into the 5/8 pin hole and then the hook is going to come into the receiver tube and we'll have a nut that will attach and that's going to apply pressure to the accessory we have mounted in there. That's going to prevent it form rattling and causing a lot of noise when we're driving down the road. Now it's a locking device, so it's going to keep all the accessories nice and secure. Now are J-pin stabilization device, as well as the pinning clip, are sold separately and you can find those here at safety chain connection points, a loop style, weld to the bottom of the receiver tube and as you can see we'll have plenty of room to get most sized hooks on or off and not have to worry about any kind of interference because of the offset from the hitch pin hole.As far as the weight capacity on our hitch goes, we're going to have a 525 pound tongue weight, which is the maximum download force of the receiver tube and a 3500 pound gross trailer weight rating. That's the amount it can pull including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it.

Our hitch is rated for use with hitch distribution systems, which is going to be a separate component mounted on your trailer. Those weights are going to stay the same.With all those numbers in mind, you should always check your Sienna's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturers recommended weight. With that high of a tongue weight this hitch is going to be great for some of the larger argo carriers and for bike racks all the way up to five bikes.Now, I'd like to give you a few measurements and that's going to help you whenever you're looking for accessories for your hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of bumper, right about three and one quarter inches. That measurements going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories, to make sure you have enough clearance and that it's not going to come in contact with the rear bumper.From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, it's going to be right about 12 inches.

That measurements not only going to come in handy when you're looking at ball mounts, 'cause it's going to help when looking for the appropriate riser drop to match up to your trailer, but also at that height I would recommend a bike rack or a cargo carrier with a raised shank. That way we get a little bit more ground clearance.So, now that we've seen what the hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation we're going to come to the back of our Sienna and we'll come underneath and we're going to have this appearance panel that we're going to have to remove. We're going to have a total of five bolts, just like this one right here, going along the back edge. So, we'll grab a ten millimeter socket and pull those out.Then, we're going to have multiple pushpin fasteners like here and with these you're going to want to get a flathead screwdriver and you're going to want to pop that center section out and it'll release the tension and then we can pull the rest of the clip out.Finally, we're going to have three of these screw type fasteners.

You want to grab a large Phillips or flathead screwdriver that's going to be big enough that it'll engage the fastener and we can unscrew it. Now, a lot of times when we go to unscrew this, it'll just start spinning, so if you need to you can kind of slightly pull down while you're loosening it. For now, we're going to set this panel aside.We're going to have to lower our exhaust, so I went ahead and sprayed some spray lubricant on the rubber hanger here and we're going to want to slide that rubber isolator off the exhaust. We'll have just a little bit more room to move around. Just take a pry bar and pry against the hanger 'til we can slide that isolator off. The exhaust isn't going to come down very far, but it's going to give us enough room so then we can get our hitch up to the frame.If we come to the bottom of the frame, we're going to have several plastic plugs. We're going to need to remove those. The ones that have the notch in it we can take a flathead screwdriver and we're just going to loosely unscrew them and then we can pull them out. The one towards the front, that's just going to be a flat plug, so we're going to take that flathead screwdriver and pry the plug out. We're going to want to remove all the plugs on both sides of the frame.Now, underneath those plugs we're going to have some weld nuts that are inside of the frame. We want to make sure that those are nice and clean and there's no dirt, debris or rust, so I'm going to spray a little spray lubricant inside there and then take a nylon tube brush and clean each one of them out. It's always a good idea to take one of your M12 bolts and run it into each one of the weld nuts to make sure that you can run it in there easily by hand. We're going to have three weld nuts on each side of the frame and we'll have our M12 bolt, we'll follow it up with a split lock washer and then a flat washer. I'm going to go through the hitch into the weld nut.With an extra set of hands, we're going to lift our hitch up. We'll go over the exhaust and then once we get to the fascia we're going to have to pull down on these tabs so that it comes to the outside of the hitch. Then, we'll lift it up to where they're going to line up with the holes in the frame and you want to make sure you get at least one bolt in on each side, that way the hitch will support itself.With the hitch supported, we can put in the rest of our hardware. Then, we'll come back with a 19 millimeter socket and we're going to snug up all of our hardware. We'll come back with a torque wrench and we're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. Then, we can put our exhaust back up and make sure it fully sits back on the hanger. Then, we can bend our tabs back so they're nice and flat.We're also going to have this bracket here that we can add any kind of electrical accessory, that's going to be just to the left or towards the driver's side of the receiver tube. Keep in mind that when we put our panel back, it is going to cover this up, so if you want to use this bracket you're going to have to trim out this section of that under body panel.We're going to have to trim our under body panel here so that we can fit it back in place. We went ahead and marked out the area that needs to be trimmed and we'll find a diagram in our instructions. Now, I'm going to come back with a razor knife and I'm just going to score the plastic a few times, going over it a couple times and then once I have a nice clean line I can push a little bit harder and cut all the way through.Now, it's a good idea to go ahead and test fit the panel and make sure that everything fits properly and we can always trim more if need be. We put our panel back in place and the easiest way to make sure it's going to stay up is if we take these screw fasteners and just push them back onto the stud. It'll hold it in place. Once we get the panel up, we can start replacing all the fasteners that we removed.That'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite class three custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 76112, on our 2011 Toyota Sienna.

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