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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Audi Q7

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2010 Audi Q7

Speaker 1: Today on our 2010 Audi Q7, we'll be having a look at and installing the Curt Class III trailer hitch receiver, part number 13220.All right, here's what our hitch looks like installed. You'll notice that it sits inside the pocket where our factory hitch would be, if it was equipped with one, and you can trim out the panel here, what covers up where the factory hitch would be, to fit around it nicely. Give us a nice, clean look, and almost looks like a factory hitch. On the side of the receiver you'll find our industry standard five eighths of an inch diameter hitch pin hole to secure any of our hitch mounted accessories that we may have. At the end of our receiver, near this nice welded on collar to help improve the looks of it, give it more of a finished look, and help increase the strength and durability of the receiver itself. Just behind our hitch pin hole, we have our safety chain hooks right here.

They are on a vertical plane, which makes them easy to hook your safety chains onto while not having to worry about coming in contact with fascia of the vehicle, potentially scratching it.This hitch has a nice, high glass, black powder coat finish, which blends in nicely with the vehicle. You'll also notice that our hitch pin hole here is pretty close to the end of the receiver, and is almost level with the back of the fascia here, making it an ideal hitch to use with bike racks and cargo carriers.This hitch features a 600 pound max gross tongue weight rating, which is the amount forcing down, and a 6,000 pound max gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount you can pull. You'll want to consult with the owner's manual on your Q7 and not exceed the rated capacities of the vehicle or the hitch itself. You don't want to cause damage to either one. Also, this hitch does not support use of weight distribution, so just keep that in mind if you are towing a trailer and planned on using weight distribution with it.

One other thing you'll want to keep in mind, too, is if you're using this hitch for a non-trailer application, such as with a bike rack or a cargo carrier, Curt does require the use of a stabilization strap to help support the load.What I really like about this hitch is the fact that it does stick out past our fascia here a little bit, and gives us ideal amount of clearance around it so when we're backing up in a trailer or loading our bike rack or cargo carrier onto it, we don't have to worry about potentially damaging our fascia.Now for a few measurements to better assist you in choosing any hitch mounted accessory you may need, such as the ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier, you're looking at about 19 and a half inches from the ground to the top of the receiver opening, and about two inches from the center of the hitch pin hole to the rearmost part of the back bumper.Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed. All right, to begin our install, we need to remove our rear fascia here. In order to do that, we need to make sure our hatch it open, so we already have that open. Now we'll take a glance over in our wheel well here on our passenger's side. There's four screws that we need to remove.

Here's our first screw here down the bottom edge. Follow that up, we'll find our second screw. Now, keeping mind, everything we do on one side of the vehicle, we'll be repeating on the other side, so our driver's side the exact same way. So, these are T-25 torque screws, by the way.All right, now we need to gain access to four nuts that are inside our spare tire well. So, we'll lift up on our cover here, slide it forward, get our storage tray out of the way as well.

At each corner here, we'll find an oval shaped opening right here, and inside you'll find two students with a 10 millimeter nut on them, just like this one right there. Now, we'll remove the two nuts on each side of the vehicle for a total of four in order to remove the bumper.Here's the second one. You can see the nut we just removed, which is the bottom one. This is the one right above it. Now, repeat the same process for the other side, as previously mentioned.Okay, now we have a center section here where our factory hitch would be. It's held in place with two eight millimeter bolts. Just take these out. Okay, those two items that fell while removing the panel we're actually the nuts that our bolts went into. The way these nuts work is they just rest on top of the fascia right here, and that is where the screws go into. More than likely, these are actually supposed to be secure in there, but our vehicle had a hitch on it at some other point in time, and it looks like whoever installed it broke these when they removed it, so your situation, you may find these still attached, you may not.All right. Now we have five more T-25 torque screws that run across the bottom edge of the fascia. We'll need to remove these and try to remove our bumper cover now. There may be some more screws that are hidden. We'll have to find out.Now, with an extra set of hands so we can remove our rear fascia. To do that, we'll grab here at the corner where it meets our corner panel, and pull back. We will find wiring behind that we need to disconnect. We have three plugs right here in the middle that we need to disconnect. To do that, we'll use a flathead screwdriver and try to loosen this tab up here. Once you have the tab loosened, the connector will pull apart. Here's the tab right here. Just kind of pull back on it like that with a screwdriver and it will release.With them all disconnected, we can set our fascia aside where it won't get damaged. Good tech tip. If you have your back seats folded down, you can just sit it inside the vehicle and they'll be out of the way.All right, now we'll remove the four 18 millimeter bolts on each side to remove our bumper beam. Now we can take the bumper beam off, and set it aside. We will not be reinstalling it.Okay, we will not be reusing the factory bolts that held the bumper in place to use our hitch. We have new bolts with a lock washer and a flat washer. We have eight new bolts just like this, and we'll secure the hitch up to the well nuts in the vehicle's body that held the bumper beam in place. Now, the new hitch is fairly heavy, so we will need an extra set of hands to hold it in position while we secure our hardware.And so, we've got our extra set of hands. Raise it up, and we'll secure it into place. Make sure we get a couple turns on it by hand before we let go, and this will help support the weight so we can install the other three on each side.All right, with all of our hardware started now, we can snug it down. The new bolts are 19 millimeter. Now we will torque all of our hardware to the amount specified in the instructions.All right, now with an extra set of hands, we'll put our fascia back on, making sure we plug back in all of our writing harnesses first. So, just line up the colors, make sure they lock in place by pulling back on them.Okay, now we'll reinstall our nuts the same way they came off to secure our fascia. All right, now we'll place back in all of our interior panels. Now we'll install the rest of our fasteners, starting with the ones underneath.All right, now our center piece, we can trim it to will fit around our hitch. Just kind of hold it up there, use the hitch as a guide, get our rough estimate of how much we're gonna need to trim off. May need to make some adjustments later. But we're gonna make our initial cut. I used a paint marker to make my lines, and then I put some masking tape around it so we don't have to worry about the paint splintering on the piece of plastic as we cut it. You can use a rotary tool, which is what I'm gonna use, or a sharp utility knife in order to make your cut. I find the rotary tool the best tool to use because I believe it's the easiest to control, and also the quickest.Okay. We did an initial test fit and found out we needed to trim off a little bit more because it interfered with our safety chain loops on the hitch. So, we're gonna repeat the same process of using the masking tape to trim off, and we'll do another test fit again and see how it looks.Okay, now that we have this trimmed out all the way, we'll put it back onto our vehicle, and we'll secure it into place with a nut on the backside. Now we'll tighten those bolts on up.And that completes our look at and installation of the Curt Class III trailer hitch receiver, part number 13220 on our 2010 Audi Q7.

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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Andrew L
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Brent H

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