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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2009 Smart Fortwo - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on 2009 Smart Fortwo


Today on our 2009 Smart Fortwo we're going to be doing an install and also taking a look at the Curt Custom Fit Class One Trailer Hitch Receiver. This offers an inch and a quarter opening. Its part number is C11020. Here's what the hitch is going to look like once you get it installed on the vehicle. It's going to follow right along the bottom of the exhaust nicely. The only thing we really had to take off the car was just the serpentine belt shield here on the side. Drill a few holes and you're ready to put it in.

It's going to give us a pretty nice clean look as you can see going across here. It follows right along with the exhaust. Inch and a quarter opening. It's going to take any of the Class One or Class Two hitch pins, hitch pin locks, anti-rattle devices, whatever you want to do there. We've got safety chain connection points. With this being a Class One hitch, it's going to have a 200-pound tongue weight rating, 2,000-pound gross trailer weight rating.

You're probably not going to do a whole lot of hauling with this setup. Also, you got to refer to the smart car's owner manual to see what its tow rating is. Not a lot of suspension under the back of these cars, so you might be limited to a pretty light capacity. Just over it, go off of rather, whichever one of those are the lowest. Our safety chain connectors here are great for the extra support we need on some bike racks and things like that.

Overall the custom fit design is nice and clean looking. Now a couple of measurements that will important in selecting your bike rack, ball mount or maybe cargo carrier. The first is going to be from the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening. We've got about 6 3/4 of an inch. From the center of our hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of our bumper, we've got about 4 1/4. Now where we're going to start with this installation is right here on our passenger side, we've got the serpentine belt cover. We're going to go ahead and remove that.

There's a couple of fasteners right here and also one right up here in front of the shock. A little harder for you to see there. They're just really really big looking push-pin fasteners essentially. We're just going to use a screwdriver, trim removal tool or something and just . See how that center core is starting to work down and out We want to just work that down. Then with some slack in it like that we should be able to bring the rest of it down and out too. You see it just comes out, just an extremely large push-pin fastener there. Then our second one is going to be just on that other side of the shock from you. It's hard to see but there's really no other way for you to get in here. All right. With both of them removed, that will just come down and out of there. That's what they say anyway. There you go. We'll set that aside. There's going to be a couple of bolts that we need to remove. They're a weird looking bolt head. The socket that you'll use is going to be a 14-millimeter 12-point. This is located just to the passenger side of our exhaust pipe hanging down here. There's also one located on the drivers side in the same spot. That's going to come down and out. Now let's get the one on the drivers side. All right. Now with the two of these out of the way, we're ready to grab our hitch. We're going to lift our hitch up into position. It's a great idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold it. What we're going to do is take that bolt that we've just removed. That's going to go through the very rear most hole on our hitch and right back into the hole we took it out of. To get it up here though, we need to tilt it down, allow it to go up and over. Now we take out long bolt, lift our hitch up and go ahead and get that threaded in. Just in front of the bolt we just put in, there's going to be a hole in our hitch but no hole in our frame. What we need to do is just mark that location on the passenger side here. All right. Now we can pull that hitch back out. Now the hole that we've marked, it's time to use a half-inch drill bit and drill it out. All right. Now let's get our rotary tool with a carbide bit and enlarge our hole to allow enough room for our spacer block and our bolts to go up through. Once that's enlarged enough to where our spacer will freely slide through and also our bolt head will pass, that will be all the larger we need to go. We'll take just a little more off the one edge and we should be good. All right, perfect. Let's head over and take care of that drivers side. All right. Now with everything passing through as it should, we'll get our hardware in place. Let's take a quick look at our attachments points. We've got the one here on the back. That's where we removed that long bolt. We'll be reusing that. We've got the one here that we enlarged and the one just in front of that. Now we're going to bring one of our fish wires through the hole in the front and allow it to come out the enlarged hole. Then going to put our spacer block into place and then thread on our carriage bolt. That spring acts almost like a nut that's going to hold it. Then we can feed our spacer block right up and into the frame and then follow that up with our bolt and then pull that and allow it to come out through our lower hole. Now with that one in place, we'll take our fish wire off. This time we're going to do a reverse pull method. We'll slide our block on before we put it in anywhere and we'll thread our bolt on there. Our bolt goes in the hole first. Push it in to give us plenty of room, slide our spacer block in and then pull them down just like that. All right. With those in place, let's head over to the drivers side where we'll do the same thing. Now in our second hole here we need to put a spacer in. It says to do it after our hitch is in place, but we found that it's difficult to do it at that point so what we do is just use a piece of tape. We're just going to tape that spacer over the top of the hole. That way as we raise our hitch into position, as long as it holds in place, we'll be able to feed our bolt through there without having to push it back up in and really try to finagle it. Sometimes it works great, sometimes not so much but it's worth a shot. Now let's get an extra set of hands and raise our hitch up into position. Now we'll just guide our hitch right up into position which can be a little bit of a chore. You just got to really push it up pass that exhaust tank. All right. We'll start our long bolt inaudible 00:07:57 just like we did when we're pre-prepping the hitch. Now we can guide our middle bolt through the middle hole and our rear bolt through the rear. Now on our middle bolt we're going to add a flange nut. Then, for our forward most mounting location we're going to add on the small washer. Once that's in place, we're going to bring our serpentine cover back in. That goes over that location. Then our large washer just like that. We'll follow that up with a flange nut as well. With those started, let's also replace our push-pin fastener here on the front side of the serpentine belt cover and push the plug back up into the middle to expand those little fingers, just like that. Now, let's head over to the passenger side and get it secured. All right, now we're almost done with our hardware. The last thing we're going to do is place in these two spacers on our rear most bolt. These are going to go in between the hitch and the frame. We'll bring it up here and we'll slide it right in so the throat goes around our bolt. We'll take the one here on the passengers side and we'll slide it in that same spot, just like that. Now we'll take just a quick look to be sure we have our hitch centered with the vehicle and we can start tightening down, starting with our weird little 14 millimeters here. We want to ensure that spacer doesn't move as we do that and it's tucked in right between the frame of the vehicle and the bracket on our hitch. With that one run down snug, let's take care of this side. We can just work our way forward tightening up our other two. We'll look into our instruction manual, get the torque specifications we need and torque all of our fasteners down to the appropriate spec. All right, just like that, we're ready to hook up our bike rack and we can hit the road. With everything nice and secure, that's going to complete today's look at the Curt Custom Fit Class One Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11020 on our 2009 Fortwo. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Andrew L
Video by:
Andrew L
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Employee Sue W
Video Edited:
Sue W

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