bing tracking image

Front Mount Trailer Hitch Installation - 2007 Ford F-150 - Curt

content loading

Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Front Mount Trailer Hitch on a 2007 Ford F-150


Today on our 2007 Ford f150, we'll be installing the Curt Front Mounted 2" Receiver Tube Hitch, part number 31352. Here's what our hitch will look like once it's installed. Next, we'll go ahead and give you a couple measurements to assist you in selecting accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, winch mount, snow plow, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is 5 1/2". From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is 20 1/4". Now, to begin our install, we'll first need to remove the manufacturer's tow hooks and hardware if it has them.

Here's our tow hook on the driver's side and there are 2 fasteners that secure it. The fasteners go up into a nut plate that sits in the frame. Once we have the bolt out, we'll hang onto it. With both fasteners out, we'll go ahead and bring the tow hook out and set it aside. Make sure you hang onto the fasteners.

On applications where we have a tow hook, we can reuse the manufacturer's fasteners and tow hooks. Now we'll move over the to the passenger's side. As you can see here on the passenger's side, the rear fastener for the tow hook is already missing, so we're going to go ahead and remove the forward tow hook fastener. Hang on to the tow hook and that 1 fastener. Once we have the fastener out, and the tow hook, we'll go ahead and set them aside for right now. If we don't have 1 of the bolts, like in this case, we can replace it with the 1/2" carriage bolt and block that's supplied with the install kit for vehicles without tow hooks.

We'll do that in this application. In order to do that, we'll also need to use the 1/2" pull wire that's provided with our install kit. We're going to take the pull wire, go through the attachment point, then up the side of the frame. On the outside of the frame, inside the body mount, is an access hole. We could use this access hole to bring our pull wire out, install our block onto the pull wire and then thread on our carriage bolt.

We'll feed the block and carriage bolt into the frame separately. With the hardware in the frame, we'll use the pull wire to pull it into position over our attachment point. Once it's in place, we can go ahead and remove the pull wire. For this application, because we're using both new and manufacturer's hardware for the center attachment point, on the driver's side only, in this application, we can take the manufacturer's bolt, go through the center point of the hitch and into the weld nut in the frame. We'll do this loosely before we put our tow hook in place as there is a notch in the tow hook that will allow for us to get the tow hook up into position while the center fastener is holding the weight of the hitch. Note, when using the carriage bolt and block, this will not apply as the notch is not large enough for the flange nut to fit through. Next, we're ready to install the hitch. It's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold the hitch while you loosely install the center fasteners only. We'll go ahead and bring the hitch up behind the front fascia and then into position over our pre-drilled holes. Again, here on the driver's side, we can utilize the manufacturer's fastener to help hold the weight of the hitch, taking the bolt and going up into our weld nut. Once we have our manufacturer's fasteners in place holding the driver's side, I'll move over to the passenger's side. Because we're using the carriage bolt and block, we'll have to put our tow hook into position at the same time we put our hitch into place and install our 1/2" flange nut. I'll then go ahead and reuse the manufacturer's hardware for my forward attachment point. Quick tech tip. If you run into a situation where the hardware is extremely corroded or, like this one where it becomes cross threaded trying to go back into a corroded weld nut, simply take the weld nut out of the frame and get rid of the hardware. We'll go ahead and use the carriage bolt and block just like we did for the center attachment point. Again, we'll take our pull wire, go through the attachment point into the frame. We'll then go out the access hole, then we slide on the block and thread on a carriage bolt, keeping in mind that they go into the frame separately. Then we'll use our pull wire to pull them into position, lining up with our attachment point. Once into place, we can remove the pull wire and install the 1/2" flange nut. Here on the driver's side, we're going to proceed as normal if you have the manufacturer's tow hook and hardware. We have the center attachment point, which is the manufacturer's bolt going into the weld nut or weld plate. We can go ahead and take the tow hook, slide it into position so that the center attachment point will fall into the notch and line up with the forward attachment point. With those 4 fasteners in place and holding our hitch in position, you can see where it's coming into contact with the front fascia. We'll need to cut it out at approximately 2" high, which we can mark out with our paint marker. Once we've cut out the fascia, it will allow for the hitch receiver tube to go all the way up without making contact and putting the fascia in a bind. To cut it out, we're just going to use a rotary tool. With our fascia cut out, we need to install our final 2 fasteners, 1 on each side. This will be a carriage bolt and block, fed into the frame, just like we did on the passenger's side. We'll go through the hitch attachment point, through the slot that's already in the frame and then out the access hole inside the body mount. We'll slide on our block, thread on the carriage bolt. We'll feed them both into the frame separately and pull them into position. Once into position, we can go ahead and remove the bolt leader and install our 1/2" flange nut. Now, with all our fasteners installed finger tight in the driver's side, we'll move over to the passenger's side and repeat the same process with our rear attachment point. With all our hardware installed, we can go ahead and tighten it down. With all our fasteners tightened down, we can go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. This will complete the install of our Curt Hitch, part number 13152, on our 2007 Ford f150. .


Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Written by:
Lindsey S
Employee Leah B
Edited By:
Leah B

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.