Trailer Hitch Installation - 2004 Infiniti FX35 - Curt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2004 Infiniti FX35


Speaker 1: Today on our 2004 Infiniti FX35, we're gonna be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Curt class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number 13558. This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed. You can see it's got a square cross tube. Now the cross tube does hang down from the back of the vehicle. But it's tucked up underneath the bumper far enough where it's not gonna be readily visible. It's gonna be a class three.

It's gonna be 2" by 2". It's gonna have a 5/8" diameter hitch pin hole. The safety chain plate, it's gonna have a plate style, which is gonna be on top of the receiver tube instead of on the bottom, which may give you a little bit more ground clearance. You're gonna have a 350 pound max tongue weight, which is a downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube. You're gonna have a 3,500 pound max trailer weight, which is gonna be your trailer plus your load included.I do recommend checking your owner's manual to make sure your vehicle can withstand that amount of weight and you're gonna pick the lowest number between your hitch and your vehicle.

Now Curt does require the use of stabilization straps for all non-wheeled loads, such as your bike racks and cargo carriers. What's different about this is your safety chain hookup plate is gonna be on the top of your receiver tube instead of on the bottom. The receiver tube is also tucked in underneath of the bumper. So you don't have to worry about hitting your legs on it. Now we will give you a couple measurements to help you in deciding on any hitch mount accessories you may need, such as a bike rack, ball mount, or cargo carrier.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost part of the bumper will be about 7". From the ground to the top innermost part of the receiver tube will be about 12 1/2". Now let's show you how to get this installed. First thing we need to do to start our installation is we're gonna remove these plastic panels on our passenger and driver side.So what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a flathead screwdriver and you're gonna pull out the center. Once you pull out the center, you can pull the base out.

We have one more right here on the inside. Now your panel on your driver's side is gonna different. But you're still gonna have the same push pins. You're gonna do the same thing on the other side. Locate your push pins that are holding the panel and then remove them so you can get your panel out. Next, we're gonna pull these three push pin fasteners out. These are gonna be located on the bottom of the bumper fascia. The next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna lower our exhaust. Before doing that, we're gonna put a safety strap up. I like to just hook it to the springs of the vehicle. What this is gonna do is when we remove our hangers, we're gonna have one here and we're gonna have three to the back of the car. It's gonna let our exhaust rest on our strap rather than hanging free and putting stress on it.Next what we're gonna do is we're gonna take some lubricant of some type and we're gonna spray it on the rubber hanger in the middle. Now you can use any lubricant you want. I like to use soapy water because it dries fast and when I go to put it back up, it's not all greasy. So what I'm using, I'm just using a pry bar. Next thing we need to do is we're gonna need to clean out this weld nut here and you're gonna have one on the other side of the vehicle also. We're gonna be using some lubrication and just a wire brush, part number 814092. Next thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take my hex bolt. I'm gonna run it to the hole, see if I need to clean it out anymore. What we don't want is we don't want anything inside of those threads that's gonna cause our bolt to strip out. Now we're gonna repeat the same process on the other side. The reason we're doing this is because the factory weld nuts are open to the elements and could have rust and stuff that gets inside in the threads.We're gonna go ahead and loosely put our hitch into place. We're gonna go overtop of our exhaust. So what we want to do is we're gonna put this bolt in loosely. Now you can see we had to use a pole jack to kind of push our exhaust up. We want our exhaust to sit low enough that we can get our hitch over the top of it and underneath this fascia. But once we get it there, we need to raise up our exhaust just a little bit, whether you use a pole jack or an extra person to push that up, see if you can get the bolt in. The next thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take just a paint marker or magic marker and I'm gonna mark these holes here and I'm gonna do this on both sides. Now per the instructions, it says to pry this panel back so we can drill these two holes for the hitch that we had marked. So what I did is, it's up to you.You can have somebody hold it as long as they can hold it back where you can drill a straight hole in there. What I did to help myself out is I just hooked a strap to it and tied it off. That way, it stays pried back and out of my way. I'm gonna be using a 1/2" drill bit. The bolts that are going in here are gonna be 7/16. So I'm gonna go one size bigger, make sure I have plenty of room when I pull my bolts through. Now we're gonna do the same thing on the other side of the vehicle. So now we'll go ahead and test the hole. You can see we're gonna have plenty of room in bolts. Now we're gonna take our feed wire, our spacial block, and our carriage bolt and we're gonna put them up inside here. First thing we need to do is we need to take our feed wire and we're gonna go to this inside hole here first. We're gonna push this spring looking end of the feed wire through the hole and then we want to come out this end.We're gonna take our spacial block, put it on our feed wire, take our carriage bolt, and we're just gonna bolt it on the end here. Next thing we're gonna do is we'll go ahead and take our spacer block and you're gonna push it up in the side of the frame here like that and you're gonna take your carriage bolt and you're gonna push it up behind it. So now that we have this bolt in, we're gonna take our feed wire off. We're gonna do the same thing with this hole. Spring into the feed wire first. You're gonna come out the end of our bumper beam. Go ahead. Put our bolt on. Put your spacer block up into place and bolt. Go ahead and take our feed wire off and then we'll put our flange nuts on. Now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and just snug these up. I'm gonna be using an 11/16 socket. Now that we have these snugged up, this hex bolt that we put in on the back, we're gonna remove it and what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a conical tooth washer.We're gonna make sure that the teeth are facing toward the hitch and we're gonna put that on the bolt and then we're gonna put it back into place. We're gonna go ahead and tighten that up. Then we're gonna repeat that on the other side of the vehicle. Once you have your hardware in place, you can torque it down to specifications in the instructions. Now that we have our hitch installed, all of our hardware is torqued down, we can go ahead and put the exhaust back up. We can start putting out push pins fasteners back in on our bumper fascia here. Next, we'll reinstall all of our push pin fasteners for our appearance panels. That'll do it for the Curt class 3 trailer hitch receiver, part number 13558 on our 2004 Infiniti FX35.

Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Patrick B
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Shane H

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