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Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2011 Honda CR-V

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2011 Honda CR-V

Today on our 2011 Honda CRV, we'll be having a look at and installing the Roadmaster tail light wiring kit with bulbs, part number RM-155. Here's what our bulb and socket kit looks like installed. What this kit allows us to do is have a tow vehicle lighting system installed on our vehicle, that is completely separate from the vehicles' lighting circuitry that's already existing. We don't have to worry about cutting our wiring putting diodes in place. This will isolate our vehicles electrical system completely, treating it just like a trailer with a separate bulb. What's great about this kit compared to using a magnetic tow lights is, you don't have to worry about putting on top of your vehicle, scratching your paint when removing them or with a removed round or having them fall off or someone take them.

This is permanently installed and all you have to do is just hook up to your RV and your ready to go. Now that we've gone over some of features, we'll show you how to get it installed. We'll begin our installation by opening our rear hatch. With our hatch open we have access to our covers that hold our tail lights in place. We have one at the top and one at the bottom. The way these work, stick a screwdriver or a trim panel tool in there, hold it open, same for all of them.

With those covers removed, we have access to our eight millimeter screws that hold our tail lights in place. Now we can grab our tail light assembly, pull it back, we have access to it. Now we'll remove all of our bulbs from it just by twisting them out. Pull the wiring harness off of it. We'll set our tail light assembly aside.

Now with our tail light assembly removed from the vehicle, we need to locate a spot where we can mount our bulb that's in the red area. We'll flip it over and we have two spots that are red, here and here. However, this one's going to be too small for our needs, so we're stuck using this one. Now we'll take a whole saw that's appropriate size according to the instructions and we'll drill a hole. Now we'll take a flat head screwdriver and bend out our tabs here all the way around our bulb assembly. Now we got this bent out, we'll do a test fit in our hole and see how they line up.

It's lining up pretty good right now. With those bent out and our test fit verified, we'll stick it in. We'll push it in place. We'll take some black silicone, which we have available on our website and we'll run a bead around it. This will help prevent any moisture from entering and causing condensation build up inside our tail light assembly. Once you've gone all the way around it, we'll let this dry and we'll do the same process on the other assembly. Now while our bulbs are drying inside our tail light assembly, we find ourselves at the front of our vehicle now. We already routed our four pole flat wiring behind our fascia and into our engine compartment when we installed our base plate. What we're going to do, you can use this to hook up to your RV with the extension cable or if you want to have an umbilical, which goes to the RV seven pole down to a six pole round. We have a solution for you, which comes with the end here for the car and a seven to six way umbilical to hook between the RV and the car, it's part number RM-146-7. We have that available on our website. In order to convert, we'll just cut off our four pole connector here. Slide our dust cover on off, slide our wires through and we'll strip back all four of our wires. We'll start with our ground, it's the terminal marked GD. We'll loosen this head screw on up. Our ground is our white wire, make sure our wires are all twisted together nice and tight. We'll insert it into the terminal and tighten back down this head screw. Now we'll do our tail light and marker lights, that's the terminal marked TM and that gets the brown wire. Now we'll do the left turn signal, it's one marked LT. That'll get the yellow wire, this is also our brake signal for the left side of the vehicle too. That leaves us with our right turn signal and right brake light, it's one marked RT. Since we only have one wire left, that's the green wire. With our connections made, we'll take our dist cover now, slide it back and back onto our connector. Now we'll take some electrical tape and we'll wrap up our connector going down the dust cover. This will help prevent any moisture from getting inside and we'll also go down our wires, so we won't have any colored wire sticking our below our vehicle. With that all wrapped up and protected from the elements now, we'll put on a bracket that comes with our connector here. We'll secure it with our screws and our lock nuts. That gives us a nice solid mount and an easy connection to our RV. Heres where our four pole flat wiring came from behind our fascia. Did this when we had our base plate installed when the fascia was off. We wrapped it, so we didn't see any of the wire behind our fascia. We're going to go ahead and route this to the rear of the vehicle, making sure we avoid any moving parts and sources of heat. If we have a towed vehicle braking system, want to make sure we leave some slack here to make our connections with that. We won't need this other four pole flat connector, we'll go ahead and cut that off as well. This will also make it easier for us to route. We dropped the wire down behind our engine, comes down behind our fire wall here. We ran it tight against the rack and pin in here. It's inside this sleeve, we don't have to worry about the steering shaft moving. The wires will be protected from that but this keeps it further away from the exhaust. We secured it with a couple of zip ties to the brackets for the fuel and brake lines. Brought it up underneath this plastic cover, brought it alongside the fuel tank and secured it with several zip ties to the parking brake cable. Brought it higher up, secured to this wiring harness for the ABS sensor. Went above our rear sub frame, keeping away from our drive axle and any other moving parts. Secured it to our sub frame right here with a zip tie. Now we went ahead and we separated all four of our wires too. At this point below the vehicle because we're going to have to run separate directions at this point in time. Now we'll take a pole wire, we're using a piece of airline tubing. You can use anything that's somewhat stiff but yet still flexible. We'll go behind our tail light pocket and we'll feed it down so it comes out behind our fascia. I went ahead on our drivers side pole wire and taped our white, yellow, and brown wires to it. We left our green wire separate because this will go over to our passenger side. Now we'll pull our wire on up, measure off how much wire we're going to need on these three. I found if we measure up to about this middle ridge right here, that'll give us plenty of length. We'll cut off the excess. We're going to save it because we will need it except for the yellow wire, we don't need that one. Start with the brown wire here, strip it. Now that we have our brown wires stripped, we'll take the other end that we cut off, we'll strip it back too. We'll tie the two together. Take one of our yellow butt connectors, stick it on, crimp it down and we'll do the same for our white wire. Now our yellow wire, we'll just strip this one back and we'll place on a blue butt connector. We'll take one more smaller section here of our white wire, we'll cut if off about six inches or so will be plenty. We'll set this aside because you will need this here in a minute. Now at this point we're ready to make our connections. I found if you have a table about the same height as where you're working, you can lay your tail light assembly on it, so you don't have to worry about holding onto it while you connect your wires or have someone else hold onto it for you. We'll take our brown wire here from our bulb, strip back some insulation. We're going to twist it together, fold it back upon itself to make it a little bit thicker. Stick it inside our butt connector with our brown wires and we'll crimp it on down. Take our red wire now, strip back some insulation and this will go under our yellow wire because this is a smaller gauge butt connector. We don't need to worry about folding the wires back upon themselves. Black wires are ground, we'll strip back some insulation. Our little section of white wire that we cut back, we'll strip of some insulation from it too. With that stripped back, we'll twist the two together and we'll take our butt connector here with the ground, the white wire, place it in and we'll crimp it on down. Now our short segment of white wire, we'll strip back some insulation from, take our provided ring terminal, place it on and we'll crimp it down. Our longer sections of white and brown wire that we attached earlier, we hooked up to a pole wire again and we'll just feed these on down behind our fascia. Pull our wires down on through and we'll just pull out the slack now. We went ahead and wrapped up our butt connectors in some electrical tape and went down the wire a little bit in both directions. This will help prevent any moisture from entering, causing a poor connection or a short circuit. Now we can plug all of our factory bulbs back into our assembly. Now our ground wire with the ring terminal, we need to attach it to our vehicle sheet metal. We'll do that using our provided self tapping screw. Now we can take our tail light assembly and reinstall it, making sure we don't pinch any of our wires behind it. We went ahead and secured up our wiring to these existing holes with a zip tie to help keep out of the way. Put some wire loom on it here to help protect it from this edge here. When we're driving down the road, any chaffing won't cut in the wire. Now our green wire and our brown and white wire that we extended. We brought on over behind our fascia attachment point here, behind our tow recovery hook here. Our other fascia attachment point, we went above our exhaust and we attached it to our other pole wire that we dropped on down. Now we will raise this on up and make our connections on the passenger side. Here's our wires, we got our passenger side tail light over here now. We'll start with our tail light again, that's our brown wire. Just measure off how much we need, trim off the excess, strip it back, place it in and we'll crimp it on down. We'll be using all blue butt connectors on this side. We'll do our turn signal and our brake light now, that's our green wire. Now we'll get our red wire. Finally, we have our ground wire, which is our white wire again. This is grounded over on our drivers side, we don't need to anything special with it over here. Then I'll get our black wire. We went ahead and wrapped up our butt connectors with electrical tape again to help protect them. Now we'll reinstall all our tail lights into the factory locations. Now we have a Tow Doctor trailer tester here plugged into our vehicle with our umbilical cord in order to test our wiring. We have these available on our website for purchase if you'd like to get one. Otherwise, you could just hook up to your RV and use it to test as well. We'll start off with our tail lights, make sure they're working. Okay those are working. Now we'll do our left brake light. As you can see that's working too. Now we'll try out our right. That one's working as well. That completes our look at and installation of the Roadmaster tail light wiring kit with bulbs, part number RM-155 on our 2011 Honda CRV.

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Info for these parts were:

Video Edited:
Joshua S
Installed by:
Rick A
Video by:
Patrick B
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video by:
Chris R
Installed by:
Hayden R
Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Andrew L
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Jared G
Video Edited:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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